Full Resize 223 Brass?

[Uncle Ji]

I've been shooting up white box Winchester 223 45 grainers ($11.99 a box of 40) and accumilating alot of brass.  I've been loading new pre-primed Hirtenberger brass but when I get into the once fired Winchester brass should I full length resize the brass or can I get away with just neck sizing to extend life of brass.  Thanks for the input!

[Paul5388]

After I shoot a piece of brass in my .223 I just use a Lee collet neck sizer for the reload.

[myarmor]

Yeap.
If it ejects fine, thats all I do. It really does save the brass. And Winchester is usually pretty good brass, I like working with it, it cooperates.
FL sizing works the stuff to death.
-Aaron

[stimpylu32]

I do just the oppisite , i FL size all my brass just because when i find a load that shoots the way i like it , i know that the next time all things will be the same load to load .

Just got in the habbit and old habbits die hard . 

[Norseman112]

I neck size when ever I can.

John

[Dillohide]

I always neck size as long as the factory or reload ejected like it should when fired. If it didn't I usually toss it because I really do not like full sizing 223 brass.

[iamsniper1]

Why would you want to full size your brass?Your brass is fire formed to your chamber,once fire formed to a particular weapon all that is needed is to neck size.As mentioned, full sizing really adds a lot of unneeded stress to your brass.
Anyway why reload when you can be out shooting,there is so much ammo out there to be had cheap,some of the cheap stuff is very good some not,for 3/4 bucks a box of 20 I buy all I can get my hands on I don't care who made it or where it came from,I've got a ton of reloading equippment sitting in the closet,I'd rather be out in the field than sitting at a bench,Been there done that.

[Uncle Ji]

I'm fully aware of the reasons for not full length resizing of once fired brass, I neck size all my brass shot thru my boltguns but the Handi is an animal of a different color and many manuals suggest full length resizing of brass for non bolt action rifles including single shots and semi-autos and from what I have gathered about Handi-Rifle shooters here from various posts seem to indicate that full size resizing in general is suggested for Handis due to their temperamental extraction.   The post was originally directed at shooters of 223 chambered Handis specifically.  This is my first Handi rifle but I have been a avid reloader for over 30 years and shooter for 40 plus.  You cannot be an avid reloader if your only goal is to save money on ammo, you have to enjoy reloading, and enjoy experimenting with various combinations of bullets, powders, primers, brass, etc. until you find that optimum load you can take pride in developing and have full confidence in.   If your goal is to just burn up as much ammo as possible in the shortest period of time then I can understand your distaste for reloading.  I myself prefer to reload ammo especially ammo that is specific to my needs and not available commercially, and not possessing the accuracy required for a given bullet weight and design.  I have not found any $3 a box ammo that is satisfactorily accurate in my Handi to my standards and the white box 45 grain hp Win. loads are $12 to $16 a box so not that economical, and though accurate lacks the projectile weight and design I prefer.  I'm presently working on 53 grain Barnes X bullet loads which should fill my needs well when I find the right combination of powder type and weight along with other factors.  To me there's a lot more to the shooting sports than just pulling the trigger but maybe that's just me.

[quickdtoo]

I'm relatively new to reloading, but a recent experience with new Win brass has bearing on this topic. This brass would not allow me to close the action, it was still well above the face of the chamber about .010" so full length resizing by adjusting the die down until the case was just flush with the chamber face made it perfect for my chamber. Factory Rem ammo fits fine, so it's not the chamber that's a problem, just the Win brass, btw.

This same practice can be accomplished by partial full lenth resizing and should work the brass the least and make brass last longer until such time as the shoulder needs to be bumped back for proper headspace. Once fired, the brass still fits perfect and I only partial full length size just enough to resize the neck for reloading it.

I've noticed that some factory ammo in my .243 Ultra will have more headspace than I like and it ends up causing slightly flattened and slightly cratered primers, so obviously not all chambers are created equal.

Reading on this topic on other forums, many shooters love the Lee collet dies for reloading ammo that will be shot in only one rifle, they prefer them over any other die and wish they were made in all calibers.

I use a Redding neck sizing die for my .338-06 Ultra, it works very well for me, other than my Lee collet die for the hornet, it's the only neck sizing die I have used so far, but the partial full length sizing works pretty darn good too, in my limited experience with it.

FWIW!

Tim

Here's some reading for those interested. Of particular note is this section from Chuck Hawks...

Full length resizing works the brass more than neck sizing. But it is usually necessary if the finished cartridges are to be fired in more than one rifle, or if they were not fired in the same rifle in the first place, or if you are reloading virgin (unfired) brass. Cases fired in guns with lever, pump, and autoloading actions typically stretch more than cases fired in bolt and single shot actions, and usually require full length resizing. Most shooters full length resize belted magnum cases. It is also a good idea to full length resize cases that might be used to shoot dangerous game, as full length resized cases are less likely to cause a feeding problem at a critical moment. If in doubt, my advice is to full length resize.

Here is how to adjust the resizing die to full length resize cases. First, run the ram to the top of the reloading press stroke with the proper shell holder installed. Second, screw the resizing die into the press until it stops against the elevated shell holder. Third, all play must be removed from the system. To do this, lower the ram and turn the die 1/8 to 1/4 turn farther into the press. Check the adjustment by returning the shell holder to the top of its stroke--you should feel the press cam over center. Now set the large lock ring and your die is adjusted to properly full length resize cases.

The first two steps of the die adjustment procedure for neck sizing are identical, but the third step is to back the die slightly out of the press. You must check the adjustment for neck sizing by running a fired case into the press. You should be able to see how far down the neck of the case is being resized. The die is properly adjusted for neck sizing when the neck has been resized but the shoulder is not set back. Then tighten the large lock ring.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm


http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/resize.cfm

http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/dies.cfm

http://www3.sympatico.ca/shooters/FvsPvsN.htm

http://www3.sympatico.ca/shooters/equip.htm

http://www.recguns.com/Sources/VIIG2.html

[cwlongshot]

I've been shooting up white box Winchester 223 45 grainers ($11.99 a box of 40) and accumilating alot of brass. I've been loading new pre-primed Hirtenberger brass but when I get into the once fired Winchester brass should I full length resize the brass or can I get away with just neck sizing to extend life of brass. Thanks for the input!

Some of you may know, but for those who do not, I have been reloading for more than 30 years. I have been a reloading teacher and authored a  number of articles on the subject. I am a pistol instructor as well as a coach for many disciplines within the NRA. This does NOT make me an expert although I have been used as one on more than one occasion. Like you I learn something new every day and hope to do so until the day I meet my maker. Having said that, I would like to offer my opinions:

While it is true that neck sizing is generally thought to extend the life of brass. To be honest there are other factor's that contribute. How hot you load them is tops on that list. Second how is the head space in your chamber. This one leads you back to the neck sizing. Trouble is just because the cartridge you just fired came out of that gun its dosen't necessarily have its exact dimensions. To truly get you brass to the chamber dimensions you need a specific loading process.

 Some years back I had a love hate relationship with a 357Herrett cartridge in a T/C contender. If you do not know, this particular cartridge has a reputation for miss fires. As a result of a very small shoulder to head space off of. The fix is to head space off of the rim. The parent case is the 30/30 win, so it has a good rim for this purpose. I needed to be sure I had perfect chamber dimensions. I seated some 200gr rn's out to contact the rifling, added a small powder charge(Wont supply this kind of data) followed by some filler to keep the powder down near the primer. I fired about 50 of these and headed for the loading bench. Next is a starting load. Because the shoulder is still not defined, but enough for good head space. Once there are fired the result is good brass. Now you need to set up your dies to neck size only. I do this with a candle. I "smoke" the neck and shoulder of the case. Run the seizer die out and re-size a case. Remove and close inspect how much you just sized. Ideally you want the shoulder to just "KISS" the inside of the die, but NOT MOVE IT. You now set the lock and the die is set for neck sizing. There is no LEE Collet dies for this caliber. 

 I do LOVE the LEE collet die and I am NOT a LEE supporter.

 Sorry for the longwinded story, but I think it will give you some background into neck sizing.


 AS for your question, like Quick, said all guns and chambers are different. Try the neck sizing, only your gun will tell if it will work. Just be sure to use brass from that CHAMBER ONLY.

 Quick,
 Concerning your 243 woes, Flattened and Craterd primers are generally more pressure related than head space related. Even craterd primers can be different on Handis as the firing pin remains extended as long as your fingers on the trigger. Heck, and oily chamber can do funny things to some loads!!
Primers protruding from the pockets and a light colored ring around the base of the brass are head space signs.
If it where mine, I would do a creosafe cast of your chamber and see what that shows.

Good luck,
 CW

[quickdtoo]

CW, I didn't consider it a woe as it only did it with some factory ammo, didn't chrono any of it tho, it doesn't do it with my own near max reloads tho. The ammo was Federal Hi Shok 100gr, the best shooting factory ammo I have tried, even better than the 95gr Fusion which is no slouch either!!  I still have some of the spent Fusion brass, it isn't cratered, but it is slightly flattened. One specific trait of a Handi and too hot of ammo is stuck brass, none of that ammo stuck. Can't remember who it was at the range that day, but he said it was probably due to soft primers, dunno if that's the case, but he said not to worry about it as it wasn't bad enough to concern him, specially since it was factory ammo and it shot so good!!

Tim