Author Topic: Cannon barrel in the raw  (Read 1599 times)

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Offline Frank46

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Cannon barrel in the raw
« on: August 19, 2006, 10:25:39 PM »
Last week while at the local scrapyard getting some lead sheathing to make minnie bullets I happened to look in the 4'x4'x4' very heavy cardboard carton that is reserved for brass. Inside was a piece of what appeared to be an extruded alloy brass round cylinder 3" in diameter by 30" long. Well after paying for the lead I managed to get it out and at $1.00 a pound and $66 bucks later it was in the back of my isuzu rodeo. I also managed to get two 1/4" discks that were 1/4" thick by 14" round. Think the guys that work there were laughing at the big grey haired fat man trying not to fall into the box. I had been to Valley Forge Pa, some years back and they had a small
brass cannon with what appeared to be a 1" bore. Not much bigger than the hunk of brass I have now. Since this piece is smaller I had the hopes of making a 3/4" bore cannon. Is this too large given the 3" diameter of the brass I now have?. Any suggestions, comments would be greatly welcome. I have a jet 13"x40" long bed lathe in the garage to do the machining. Thanks, Frank

Offline Double D

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Re: Cannon barrel in the raw
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2006, 11:23:17 PM »
First Frank welcome to the board.  You have come to the right spot to get help with your affliction. The Afflcition to need a cannon.

First let me see if I understand what you have. a 3 inch cylinder or a 3 inch round. Cylinder being hollow a round being solid. I am going to assume you have a round

Technically you could build a 1 inch bore. Safety guidlines call for a wall thickness over the breech to be the same the diameter of the breech.

The fellows here will be right along with ideas for you.

Offline CU_Cannon

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Re: Cannon barrel in the raw
« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2006, 03:21:14 AM »
There are lots of possibilities in that stock.  You could build a 1/3 scale mountain howitzer to use about 12.5”.  You could build something like the little naval cannon Powderkeg built with about 9” or 10”.  You would still have enough to build a coehorn mortar.  It sounds like you good a good buy.



I would go with a 3/4” bore.  You could probably go with a 1” as DD said but I would go conservative.

Offline Cat Whisperer

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Re: Cannon barrel in the raw
« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2006, 03:31:32 AM »
Last week while at the local scrapyard
 ...
 Thanks, Frank

Frank, WELCOME to a fellow scrounger!

My first was a mortar, started from a scrap piece of hot rolled steel laying around the metal shop.

Calamity Jane posted a long series of making her 1" bore cannon (with liner).  It is a blow-by-blow account over many months with pictures and discussion - a few years back, so it might be difficult to find (UNLESS someone can find it and post the link).

There are many options - have fun deciding!

Tim K                 www.GBOCANNONS.COM
Cat Whisperer
Chief of Smoke, Pulaski Coehorn Works & Winery
U.S.Army Retired
N 37.05224  W 80.78133 (front door +/- 15 feet)

Offline Frank46

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Re: Cannon barrel in the raw
« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2006, 08:19:31 PM »
If I neglect to address this post to one specific responder please accept my apologies. Just started and still feeling my way through this site. Yes it is a solid 3" diameter round and 30" long. Sitting in my garage as we speak. I had concerns about the strength of the material. Only one gouge on it but this should cleanup ok. I live in louisiana and as you may have heard it has been very hot down here. This is my "cool weather" project. Will have to decide as to what I want as the possibilities are endless. Now lets see, I could make one entire cannon, or end up with two or three. Decisions, decisions. My only problem would be attaching the trunions. As I see it this could be done either one of two ways. First off would be to have someone mill a couple pockets 180 degrees apart and either braze or silver solder them in place. Or make up a sleeve bigger than three inches and have the trunions and sleeve brazed or silver soldered together to form one entire piece. Someone once mentioned welding on brass, is this possible? and what is the process for this?. I have a bigger piece of brass about 13" long and maybe I need to use this as a "learning" lesson before trying to do the bigger one. Would be a shame to screw up the bigger piece as this is probably a once in a lifetime "find" Did a lot of dumpster diving and scrap yard scrounging and never did luck out like this. Thanks for the responses, keep 'em coming as I need lotsa help. Thanks, Frank

Offline claypipe

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Re: Cannon barrel in the raw
« Reply #5 on: August 21, 2006, 01:05:20 AM »
I would be concerned as to what type of brass you picked up. Personally I prefer 660 for cannon making. Phosphurous brass is not what I would consider safe for any sort of barrel making.

CP

Offline Frank46

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Re: Cannon barrel in the raw
« Reply #6 on: August 21, 2006, 09:07:47 PM »
Claypipe, from the looks of it, it appears to be an extruded type of brass. 360 perhaps?. I had plans on origionally making it a 75 caliber and this would give me some extra material around the breech. The other piece I spkoe about came from a 48" valve that has brass valve stems. This one at the time I don't have the diameter handy. Took about twenty minutes each saw cut with a sawzall. That one is approximately 13" in length. I do not plan on using regular cannon type charges. Instead would use either cannon grade BP or the same charges as used in a musket. This is with 1F BP. Course with things so dry down here starting a fire is the last thing I'd need. Just cut the back section and the temp here hit 100 degrees. I'll have to check on the big piece in the garage but as I said it appears to be extruded. Thanks, Frank

Offline Tropico

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Re: Cannon barrel in the raw
« Reply #7 on: August 25, 2006, 01:38:09 PM »
Perhaps it is a 360..,I dunno. I do know 660 is differant. 660 is a bronze. Never the less I do have two small cannons (1 cannon and 1 mortar) made from 3" brass. They are among my favorites to shoot live or blanks.,and beautiful to look at too. And they have been subjected to  some pretty hot loads for little guns and they seem to be just fine.  I trust them easily. If I were you I would do a 1" bore and no-more., no-less . Its a good pop thats for sure. Perhaps there is a 20" with 1" bore Napoleon or Queen Anne English in that stock of yours a dictator mortar at 1" and a Golf ball mortar with a 1" subchamber as well !!!!
Gor for it Frank46 !!!

Offline Frank46

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Re: Cannon barrel in the raw
« Reply #8 on: August 28, 2006, 09:36:31 PM »
Tropico, thanks for the words of encouragement. Finds like this don't happen every day. I just happened to be scrounging some lead for a 1858 parker hale 2 band musket I want to buy. Either 1" or .750 would be ok by me. I cast for some of my rifles so cannon balls would fit in easily. Course the 500lbs of lead I presently have wouldn't last long in its origional form (lead sheathing) casting balls. Gotta get some more. There is a civil war renactor's group here where I live and they are portraying New York civil war soldiers that had occupied my town during the war. I'm origionally from new york myself. They do have a bronze cannon that they fire with blanks, but unfortunately for me I've never been to one of their shoots. Hopefully will be able to see the cannon. Frank