trade some .480 answers for some .480 questions?

[¬Rebel¬]

Hello everyone! Reb here. See some faces from the old board I lurked in for a long time and a lotta new ones.


I just bought a nib SRH .480 and grabbed a Trophy 2-6 to top it with. Been a ironsighted big bore shooter most of my adult life, but just recently decided to go to optics. Fill me in on some of the preparations necessary for mounting my new scope? It "appears" to be making good contact with the rings, ..but it's probably not. What's the best means for a DIY'er to correct it? I've heard of several ways but I'm eager to read your input. I don't posess a lapping tool, but one's no prob to get ...I guess. Any other means?


And what about the scope slippage I've heard other big bore shooters commplain of? That a likelyhood with the lower pressure of the .480?


All I've seen on the shelves in countless places is the Hornady XTP. Figured if I waited a year or so before I bought the SRH there'd be more offerings from other mfr's. Anyone else making factory fodder other than them?


Thanks a jillion,
Reb

[Paul H]

Here is a write up on my experience with cast bullet loads http://www.serveroptions.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=25;t=000222

My SRH frame did not fully fill out when they cast it, so the front ring slants down when tightened.  The proper fix is a new frame, but the gun shoots so well, that I don't won't to send it off for a new frame.  The alternate fix would be to weld up the front ring, and fit it to the frame.  I've done the lazy fix of shimming the ring.  This shouldn't be a problem, but something to be aware of.  

Despite the tweaked front ring, I have had no problems with the 2.5-7 simmons scope that has been on and off the gun several times.  The scope hasn't slipped with 310's @ 1550 fps, 400's @ 1250 fps or 460's @ 1150 fps.  One precaution is the mount the elevation/windage turrets flush with the back of the front ring.  There is no place for the scope to move.

I've never fired factory fodder out of my gun, as the Hornady 325 gr round isn't anywhere near the guns potential.  Reference my thread, but what you need is reloading dies, brass, primers, powder, and cast bullets.

[¬Rebel¬]

That's some _hellacious_ good loads it seems you've worked up there. Gonna have to save that info. Though most of my buds reload, I've yet to undertake the hobby due to spreading myself out too thin with other interests. Definitley seems  the way to go for sure now though since I've a mess of guns in the safe and am tired of pissin money away.

What did you shim your ring with? I heard a guy in a shop the other day talking about some product made specifically for that, but can't remember the name or maker.

That finish they're puttin on a lotta the newer rugers ("target gray") seems extremely slick and I'm wondering abiout the hardness.

If I'm able to snag one close by ...is it difficult for the layman to use a lapping tool the first time?

[Paul H]

I used .005" shim stock.  If your gun is properly made, there should be no need for doing that.  The only reason I noticed that I had a problem is a buddy wanted me to lap his 454 SRH, and I decided to do mine at the same time.  His rings were dead on, and really didn't need lapping.  If I hadn't shot my gun so much to know how accurate it was, I would send it back, but since they'd have to replace the whole gun to fix the problem, I'll live with it.

The target gray finish will wear with use.  I carry my 480 at least a month a year in the field, and it shows some where here and there.  Since it's stainless underneath it isn't a problem.

Lapping the rings is easy.  You install the rings on the frame with the top half of the rings removed.  You can use a piece of 1.00" round stock with 180-240 gr lapping compound, or get one of the commercial kits.  I put a bit of layout blueing on the ring first to see where the compound is cutting.  With that set, it is simply run the lap back and forth and check for progress.  You don't need to get 100% of the layout blue off.  If the blue is coming off from the front and rear of the ring, you'll know that they aren't canted.  Once ~50% of the blue is off, just clean up the grit with a solvent, mount the scope, and go shooting.

[Hcliff]

Some people use the rubberized electrical wire covering on the inside of the rings to prevent slipping.  Some scope will allow you to put the turret against the ring.  I think the Leupold is like that.  When mounting the scope make sure that you hold the gun when centering the crosshairs.  Some people cant handguns one way or the other.   Try the scope first and see if it needs tweeking or lapping.  

That target grey is the draw back from the SRH.  It does wear like Paul said .  I think it is simiar to blueing characterics for wearing.  The neat part is the stainless underneath.  This is the reason some of the custome makers will not work in the SRH with target grey.  They can't match up the finish.  

Other factory ammo is from Speer.  They have a 325 grain Gold Dot.  They have released a 275 grainer too. Federal is not making ammo for it.  Bother them so they do.  I am.  (And that is a funny thing since I think they are sister companies)  I think Buffalo Bore make their high proformance ammo too in the 480.

This is a great cartridge to reload.  Paul had did lots of work for this.  You can has get loading data from Speer and Hornady.  Hornady will give you data that is alot higher than factory ammo.  My favorite is the 390-400 grain loads.  H110 and Lil Gun are some of the powders I like.  John Taffin also did alot of work in one of his article too.


Some of my favorites
325 grain Gold Dot, Hornady case, Federal primer 155, and 26.0 grain of Lil Gun averages 1430
425 LBT LFN-GS  19.0 H110 1080fps
390 LBT LFN-PB  21.0 H110
370 LBT LFN PB  22.0 Lil Gun 1340fps
375 LBT LFN GC 24.0 H110  1290fps
Have fun

Hcliff

[Varmint Hunter]

I am told that the Ruger "Target Grey" finish is not a finish, per say. The SS parts are merely tumbled in an abrasive media that results in the distinctive grey finish. There is apparently NO coating, plating or finish applied to these guns. It would be difficult for a gunsmith to duplicate the finish but Ruger could easily repeat the process to your parts if it became necessary.
I  would image that it could also be polished out by a competent gunsmith.
VH

[Paul H]

I am told that the Ruger "Target Grey" finish is not a finish, per say. The SS parts are merely tumbled in an abrasive media that results in the distinctive grey finish. There is apparently NO coating, plating or finish applied to these guns. It would be difficult for a gunsmith to duplicate the finish but Ruger could easily repeat the process to your parts if it became necessary.
I  would image that it could also be polished out by a competent gunsmith.
VH

I somehow doubt that the finish is merely a tumbling of the parts in an abrasive medium, it appears similar to a powdercoat finish.  If the gun was finished in a tumbling media, it would have a more metalic "silvery" appearance.

The best way to remove the coating is to bead blast it.

[LarryL]

Hi,

I have a .480 SRH 7-1/2" with an Aimpoint mounted on it.  My best load so far is a BRP 360 gr hard cast lead gas checked bullets over 24.5 gr of Lil'gun powder, Federal 155 primers, and Hornady brass.  My best 6 shot group at 90 yds was about 3-5/8" with 5 shots into 2-1/8".  I don't know how fast this load is going, but I'm guessing maybe 1450.  it shouldn't be close to max based on the Hodgdon web site which lists 22 gr starting load going 1350 and 26 gr max load going 1540fps, for the 370 gr Cast Performance bullet.

I'm using all recycled factory Hornady cases.  I went through about 100 rounds of factory stuff before I got my reloading dies.  The factory loads are a little sticky on extraction, but not bad.  These handloads are horrible.  I've taken to only loading every other cylinder because I can't get 6 cases out without a whole lot of unacceptable effort.  The cases and primers do not show any signs of undue pressure.

Any comments about my pet load?

Has anyone seen this sticky extraction problem with Hornady cases?  Will I likely still have this same problem with good Starline brass?

Is it a problem with the finish inside the cylinders?  Should I polish the cylinders?  What is a good method to do this?

Other that this annoyance with the case extraction, I'm really happy with the gun.  Thanks in advance for any advice!!   :-D

[Paul H]

If you don't want sticky extraction, drop your powder charges!  My 480 is slightly sticky with factory ammo.  Check my loads that are linked, all posted loads aren't sticky on extraction.  

Now, if you want to hot rod your gun, then you'll have to get the chambers polished.  Personally, I don't want to hotrod my gun, I want it to last, so I like the slight roughness on the chambers that keep me from running hot.  The hornady brass will last and last if loaded down to where it's not sticky on extraction, I've got over 20 loads through some cases, and I've lost about a dozen cases to slight splits out of 200 cases.

Think of it this way, is their any game animal you'd hunt with a revolver that you'd find a 400 gr bullet @ 1200 fps inadequate for?  I personally can't think of any.  The 480 is at its best with the heavier bullets at moderate speed, IMHO.

[Hcliff]

Paul

I got the Pachmayr Grip for my 480.  It is a bigger grip.  It is maybe a 1/2' longer.  (it won't fit into the factory box).  The angle is different than the orginial.  I haven't had a good range session.  (I snuck a quick 20 rounds in)  It seems like it has more cushion for the palm of your hand.  I am not sure about muzzle flip yet.  If my brother is around and the weather helps (Supposed to snow and rain this weekend)  I will try some video tape with both grip to compare .

I will keep everyone updated on the experiment

Hcliff

[HHI 812]

when he shot it, and saw my ballistics. I got it new, and it went to two different owners, and neither of them shot it after almost 2 years! Well, barrel is going to be chopped, like I just did to a 454 SRHK I had, but this time its going to get my customary FA front sight base, and going to get all the blueing taken off. Getting a new mold made soon, since PaulH got my original proto Lee mold now. Although Lee did go with some of the modifications I suggested, from their orginal design, He didn't have as long a nose as I wanted. I'm going to have a longer nose done on my next mold, along with the square crimp grooves that I've preferred on my custom molds. Warm my pot up PaulH, going to have to start cooking another new mold! As PaulH said, don't need to push this big bore to get it to perform. And with Jack Huntington now starting to get into bison hunting, hope more testing can be done. One thing is for sure, from his last bison hunt, the .475 impacted the bison over all the other calibers!

[Hcliff]

I ran some round with the Pachmayr grip and I don't think I like it.  It seems to have much more muzzle jump.  The muzzle moves up and to the right.  The thing it does do is protect your middle finger from the trigger guard.  that was the positive side. I don't know if I take this grip and grind on it some (Ross Seyfried trick) or sell it.  It seems to have too straight of a grip angle downward.  Don't get me wrong I love my Pachmayr on my 44 S&W magnum but on the SRH it is bigger in diameter and just felt wierd.  I had myself video  taped and you can see a little difference but the felt ness is extremely different.  I wish the grip had Ruger's angle with the trigger guard fill in.

Here are some different loads I ran through

400 BBT cast 7.0 gr Titegroup 850fps
400 BBT cast 8.0 gr Titegroup 920fps
370 Cast Pro LBTLFN 9.0 Titegroup 990fps
390 Cast Pro LBTLFN 8.0 Titegroup 910fps
400BBT cast 19.0 Lil Gun  1175fps
400 BBT cast 20.0 Lil Gun

Very fun


Hcliff

[HHI 812]

I've owned a mess of FA, bisley and SRHK, and only time I really got hit in the fingers was with really hot 500's and .475's. I didn't get any problems with the FA, although it did roll more than the rest, doing what it supposed to do. I got pretty small hands, so the SRHK doesn't bother me, even with the Lee 400 @ 1350 fps.

[Hcliff]

I agree with the hand size. Everyhone different Some one with bigger hands than mine, or loner finger might like the Pachmayr.  The Bisley grip I like until we get into higher powered loads.  Again I hit that middle finger.  Just my hand shape - stubby fingers with a wide palm.  

Hcliff