mercury recoil surppressor placement

[tanoose]

I sent an e-mail to C&H on this but i thought i would ask you guys. Where is the best place to put the surppressor. I took the steel bolt out of my 45/70 handi and it measures 8" the surppressor is 5" should it go against the stock bolt , back near the recoil pad or in the center of the stock? Or doesn't it matter .And what are you guys usinmg to take up the 3" space. I was thinking on light 7/8 dia. dowel , foam or what? Thanks Tanoose

[knight0334]

lead shot..   

The added weight should help out even more to quelsh recoil.

[tanoose]

The surppressor already weighs 16 oz so i dont realy want any more weight  and i only need 3" peice of filler i will probibly go with a lightweight piece of wood i just dont know where to position the surpressor in the stock.

[quickdtoo]

Using lead with a suppressor defeats the purpose of using the suppressor, it's purpose being recoil reduction without too much additional weight.

Putting it in a synthetic stock does present some placement issues that aren't a problem with a wood stock. One thing that I've done on syn stocks was to fill em with expanding foam, it deadens the hollow sound, but is tricky, if it over expands, it can damage the stock or push the recoil pad off or at least warp it!! You may be able to use the wood dowel and stuff foam packing peanuts around it to hold it and the suppressor in place. Maybe roll the dowel and suppressor in paper or foil and tape it together as a unit first.

I would position it where the rfile balances well, as long as it's inline with the recoil force, it should work well.

Just a thought.

Tim

[NFG]

You can use a piece of dowel, Teflon, lead, or any material that will absorb the recoil.  I used a piece of Teflon in my BC with the end that contacts the bolt milled out just enough to go over the head and contact the wood behind the bolt head.  If you can find a 7/8" round piece of lead, and it is available online if you want to pay the freight, just cut pieces as spacers.  The additional weight will mean more recoil reduction.

You will have to experiment as to where the recoil reducer is placed to find where it balances best.

But be sure to make another piece of dowel to fit between the suppressor and the recoil pad, put strips of tape on the suppressor to keep it from banging around and, I added an extra screw equidistant from edge of the hole as the top screw, for a little more hold.

I used a piece of aluminum tube filled with lead shot and epoxied.

Lots of ways to keep it from getting a head start and blowing out the recoil pad or making noise.

Stay away from adding any weight to the forend unless you have a gunsmith add another screw lug to the barrel.

Check my posts.  I detailed what I did and what happened, what the finished weight and total weight of the pieces, for what it's worth.

My BC just keeps shooting better and better as I work the loads.  Down to two rounds over lapping and the third slightly out half a diameter.  Two and one, it's almost there.  I'm more interested in the first round placement anyhow.  As long as it hits POA from a cold barrel, I'm well pleased.

Enjoy  NFG

[stuffit]

When I got the mercury recoil reducer for my BC, I elected to use two pieces of the correct diameter of wooden dowell as spacers and buffers with the installlation.  I didn't think it would be desirable for the MRR to be directly against the stock securing bolt head, nor did I want the MRR to bear directly on the recoil pad I'd installed.  So I measured  the extra space in the stock and cut a couple of pieces of dowel in lengths that added up to the difference.  I left the last piece a little longer and used a wood rasp to "fit" it in the remaining space before putting the recoil pad back on.  It wasn't as much trouble as it sounds and has held up well with use.  Probaby a coiuiple of  pieces of PVC pipe could be "fitted" the same way.  As with other things, there's more than one way to skin this particular cat, I think.
 
stuffit

[nomosendero]

When I got the mercury recoil reducer for my BC, I elected to use two pieces of the correct diameter of wooden dowell as spacers and buffers with the installlation.  I didn't think it would be desirable for the MRR to be directly against the stock securing bolt head, nor did I want the MRR to bear directly on the recoil pad I'd installed.  So I measured  the extra space in the stock and cut a couple of pieces of dowel in lengths that added up to the difference.  I left the last piece a little longer and used a wood rasp to "fit" it in the remaining space before putting the recoil pad back on.  It wasn't as much trouble as it sounds and has held up well with use.  Probaby a coiuiple of  pieces of PVC pipe could be "fitted" the same way.  As with other things, there's more than one way to skin this particular cat, I think.
 
stuffit

Sounds good to me!

[45/70fan]

Mine is in against the bolt and I used a piece of an old broom handle to fill the gap.
FYI....group sizes got larger with the reducer installed. Don't see why but they did on mine and my brothers 45/70's.

[tanoose]

45/70 it sounds like  vibration try reversing the suppressor to the rear or in the middle of the stock and see what happens to those groups. And Quick let us know what recoil results you are getting the next time you shoot . It looks like it will be awhile before i get to shoot as my knee went out and i'll be going for surgery in a couple of weeks, I put in a 7/8 by 3/8thick rubber washer againgt the bolt slid in the MRS and then a 3" piece of broom handle, Pushed down against the washer added a screw and then filled the space with a nylon washer , for a perfect fit.

[quickdtoo]

Tanoose, hope the knee surgery goes well, I may be headed that way myself!!

Remember the BC stock that H&R damaged when I had another BC barrel fitted? I cut the butt off square to loose the damaged toe, then fitted a small Limbsaver grind-to-fit to it. Contact cemented a 7/8" diameter piece of elk hide to the front end of the MRR, the cut a piece of 7/8" OD PVC pipe to fit in behind the MRR, then put a wrap of black electrical tape on each end of the MRR and PVC pipe to make them a snug fit in the stock bolt hole. I can insert a ¼x4" bolt thru the PVC pipe to thread into the MRR and pull everything out.

I also coated the recoil pad with Kick Eez Slick Eez, it makes it not so "sticky"!! The instructions indicate it's not meant for other recoil pads, but it works fine. It's shiny, but a little rub with steel wool will take the shine off. Best price I found was at Gamiel.

I'll post a range report when I can, plan on working up a load with the 350gr Hornady FN and IMR4198 to about 1900-2000fps, that will test me and the MRR.

Tim

[tanoose]

Nice set up did you have to change the front sight with the williams rear peep? I was thinking on putting one on my handi rifle.

[quickdtoo]

Tanoose, See the peep and firesights link in the FAQ.

Tim

[quickdtoo]

And Quick let us know what recoil results you are getting the next time you shoot .

Shot the BC stocked Handi with Limbsaver and C&H MRR finally, recoil with the 405gr rems at 1900+fps  was very tolerable from the bench, I didin't take the chrono, but I'm pretty sure that's the velocity figures out to, they felt more like trapdoor loads, but it's a top levergun load!!

Tim

[tanoose]

Sounds good to me Quick , iused a 7/8 x 1/8 thick rubber washer in front of the MRS then put a 5" peice  from an old broom stick then i used a screw pushing the setup against the washer  then added another washer on the end up against the recoil pad . Plus i ordered a small limbsaver , also the grind type.I cant wait to try these buffalo bore bullets i got the 430 LFNGC advertised at 1925fps. I hope to get to the range in a couple of weeks.

[quickdtoo]

Tanoose, if you want some real stoppers, load up some 525gr(539gr actual weight) BTB Piledrivers at over 1800fps, they'll make the BB ammo seem like trapdoor loads!!

Tim

Watch the video at the bottom of the page!!

http://beartoothbullets.com/open_sight/archive_open_sight.htm/21

[tanoose]

Thanks Quick i didn't think you could push a 500 grain let alone a 525 grain bullet at 1800 FPS unless you were using a ruger no.1 i am going to look real hard at this . Thanks again. Tanoose  On that video i am glad he didn't shoot low would of had two nice holes in that truck.