My smallest

[GGaskill]

When soldering, be sure to apply a separate flux.  A rosin core flux doesn't act until the solder melts and this is too late for this kind of joint.  Be sure the flux gets into the joint, even to the point of flowing out the other side.  When properly fluxed, a joint will suck the solder into it so strongly that you can apply the solder on one side and it will flow all the way to the other side.  In fact, that is a good clue that the solder has completely filled the joint.

[copdoc]

Thanks
All good advice. I have large and small soldiering irons, propane tourch and a tiny old oxy-butane torch if I can still get cylinders for it.  The hot plate is a good idea.  I might use my wife's new stove if she is not here.  I have electronic soldier but will have to look up specs.  I have some flux for brazing.  I have rigged a oxy propane touch using a medical O2 cylinder, a propane tank and one of those small oxy-propane units from WalMart .  This is too hot from what you guys tell me.  I have done a lot of electronic soldiering and it may be more like doing electronics than metal work.

I think I will try the large soldiering iron first. SN62 or SN63 are either OK?  I'll go to Radio Shack an see what they have.

Now I remember the trunions are a piece of brazing wire.  I might need a little larger piece of brass bar.

[GGaskill]

The lead free solders sold for plumbing use are stronger but more of a pain in the behind to use.

Also, you are not trying for a tight mechanical joint; leave .003-.004" clearance for the solder to occupy for the strongest joint.

[Rickk]

Radio Shack has SN62 , which has 2% silver .
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062725&cp=&origkw=solder&kw=solder&parentPage=search

They also carry SN63 which is just tin/lead
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062718&cp=&origkw=solder&kw=solder&parentPage=search

The SN60 (tin/lead) they carry will work OK as well as long as you are careful not to let anything move or wiggle as it cools or it will crystalize and look greyish.  The SN62 or SN63 will not do that. The SN62, which contains 2% silver, will wet a bit better

GGlaskill is right about using separate flux, as it will guide the solder on the right direction. I just checked their web site... Radio Shack carries Rosin Core flux. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049774&cp=&origkw=flux&kw=flux&parentPage=search . Get things a bit warm first, apply the flux (with a tooth pick possibly) where you plan to solder. Too much is bad... just enough to cover the place where you want the solder to go.

Clean the flux off afterwords or the barrel will start to turn green quicky (BP residue will do the same thing.) Isopropyl alcohol will clean it very nicely.

The new all tin plumbing solder will work, but doesn't flow into tight areas as nicely.

[copdoc]

I think that is all I need to know. I'll keep you guys informed and we'll go for the Guiness record.

If I melt it I will make another.

[Double D]

I might use my wife's new stove if she is not here. 

Warning this very hazardous!!!!!!!!!

Based on my 40 years of experience you are just asking for trouble doing this.  I have been there an done that.  You will have nothing but problems if you do it.  Thats 40 years of marriage all to the same woman experience, not experience soldering or welding. Take my advice even though I still don't listen to my  own.

[copdoc]

Even better advice.

I have played with hazardous devices both professionally and as an avocation.  My staff told me I was more likely to be stuck by lightning or bitten by an alligator that winning the lottery.  I get a ticket every week now since I already have had the other 2.  I've been shot at and missed and .................... A scratch on that new stove is something even  I might not survive.