Sharpening??

[jpsmith1]

In understand that even the best broadheads don't come sharp enough.  How do you all sharpen.  I've tried a Lansky sharpener and a crossed sticks type carbide sharpener.  I'm not sure these work well enough, because while they were always sharp, I've never really thought they were 'scary sharp'.  Am I just too used to sharp edges or am I doing something wrong?

[SDS-GEN]

Replaceable blade broadheads shouldn't need sharpening.  Use one set of blades for target practice and keep a brand new set of blades for hunting.  If you insist on sharpening the little replaceables the best thing for the job is a wet drum sander with a worn 600-800 grit belt.  You can get one at a lapidary supply store they are expensive though.  This is the set up people use for resharpening surgical scalples.  Just run each side of the blade across the drum once, it may take a while to get a feel for the proper angle.  Because the drum runs wet and cool it won't ruin any temper on the blade.

For my magnus cut on impacts I use the above method or a lansky and can get them shaving sharp.  I don't know of too many cut-on-impacts that come from the factory sharp enough to hunt with.

[jpsmith1]

I have Zwickeys on all of my arrows, but may be changing my mind.  I'm looking to get back behind my bow for next year after taking about 10 years off.

Back then I was taught to pass the blade through a rubber band sort of loosely stretched between two fingers.  Burnt through a lot of rubber bands that way.  In order to be sharp, the blade had to cut the band instantly. 

Never subjected replaceable blade broadheads to that test.  I missed a deer with one and, on recovering the arrow, noted that one of the blades was broken.  I was not impressed as it didn't hit anything hard, just soft forest earth.  On the way home, I bought the Zwickeys and never looked back. 

Never shot a deer with them, though.  Still haven't gotten one with a bow.

[SDS-GEN]

I now shoot magnus 2 blade 100gr heads.  I tried replaceable blade broadheads and mechanical broadheads, I never really had any problems with either but they were more expensive to shoot and I don't think I've ever been able to shoot 2 deer with one head.  The broadheads all seem to get damaged or bent going through an animal.  One trick to sharpening with your lansky-use the fine stone on your final polish and watch for a bur to develop (kind of like a rolled edge on the opposite side of the blade from where you just sharpened).  This has to be removed for optimum sharpness.  Just run your blade down the stone on the side with the bur once or twice lightly.  Push the blade don't pull it.
Incidently I don't think two, three, or four blades makes any difference in effectiveness, but the 2 blades are quicker to sharpen.

[jpsmith1]

Thanks for the tip.  I'll work on that when I break the bow back out.

[daddywpb]

The G5 Montecs can be sharpened easily on any flat stone. Lucky for me, they shoot to the same poi as my field points. No sight adjustment needed.

[WylieKy]

The G5 Montecs can be sharpened easily on any flat stone. Lucky for me, they shoot to the same poi as my field points. No sight adjustment needed.

+1

Only I did have a small amount of adjustment from FP (90 grn FP, 100 grn broadhead may account for that).  I shot one through a spike buck on 09/01, cut straight through the rib bone on both sides, and went several inches into the sand on the other side of the deer.  Blades were still true and sharp!!!!

WylieKy

[dano]

I have worked in a meat packing plant for 22 years now and I resharpen all my broadheads and new ones from the get go.What works best for me is a med wet stone.I get them sharp enough to cut paper. I have taken a old bench grinder and put a pulmus wheel on one side and a 80 grit flap wheel on the other side. I will take the blades and put them on the pulmus wheel and they come out sergical sharp they are way better then anything comming from a factory
Dan