Handi component weight questions

[brotherjack]

I'm thinking that this has already been covered, but with search broken, and my patience being what it is (lacking), I'm just going to ask.

After my last round of questions established that I'd be best of to just have a regular handi barrel cut and turned to get a light gun in a real caliber (thanks very much for all the input on that!), I'm now down to trying to figure out what stock would be the lightest.    So, I'm looking for the weight of the various stock set's available for the Handi.   Probably the easiest to ask for would be the buttstock+ SB2, and fore-end (with screw) weights.   Here's what I got so far:

SuperLight Synthetic butt + SB2 = 2.65 lbs
SuperLight Synthetic fore w/ screw = .24 lbs

Wood + butt SB2 = 3.63 lbs

Am wanting to know the following:

Standard synthetic butt + SB2
Standard synthetic fore w/ screw

Confirm the 3.63 lbs of the wood butt + SB2
Wood fore w/ screw

Laminate butt + SB2
Laminate fore w/ screw

Choate Varmint butt + SB2
Choate Varmint fore w/ screw

Survivor butt + SB2
Survivor fore w/ screw

Tamer butt + SB2
Tamer fore w/ screw

If you have (or have the capacity to get) relatively precice weight measurements of any of the above, it would be apprecaited.

Also, any of the ones I may have forgotten would also be welcome.

Thanks,

[quickdtoo]

The superlight and standard MC Handi synthetic stocks are the same, only the barrel is different. The Choate Varmint stock and forend weigh 2lbs-3oz, the Survivor stock and forend weigh 1lb-9oz. Scale is a diet scale, so accuracy isn't perfect. I'll have a digital scale later this week, will be more precise.

Tim

[brotherjack]

Thanks. 

You wouldn't happen to know what an SB2 frame alone weighs, do you?    (or were those weights you quoted with the SB2 frame included?)

[quickdtoo]

Those are for just the stock sets. A frame weighs 1lb-8oz, IIRC.

Tim

[brotherjack]

So not counting the barrel, a little math (thank you calculator!) yields the following approximations (frame, fore, and stock - not counting barrel):

a Synthetic would be 2.89lbs
a Survivor would be 3.06lbs
a Varmint would be 3.75lbs

Interesting - I would have thought the skeleton buttstock of the Varmint or the hollow design of the Survivor would save a few ounces, but it looks to be exactly the opposite.

I wonder if it's the fore-end adding the weight more than the stock?

[quickdtoo]

The forend of the Varmint stock alone weighs 10oz without the bipod adapter, the survivor forend weighs about 4½oz. The Varmint stock also has an actual recoil pad which the survivor lacks.

Tim

[carbineman]

Hey Brother! If you really want a light handi, look for a older Harrington and Richardson rifle made in the 70's or 80's. The barrels were really tapered and this cut a lot of weight off the barrel as well as made the whole package lighter. Both myself and my hunting partner own these rifles chambered in 30-30 Winchester. On mine I have the black painted wooden forend and a NEF synthetic stock to take even more weight off.

The downside is that this rifle was not made in many calibers. From what I remember there was 22 Jet, 30-30, some 357 mags. and 45-70 Gov. There might have even been a few 44 mags floating round. The other gurus here will know for sure but that is what I remember.

[brotherjack]

CarbineMan:  sounds interesting, but I'm looking for something in a caliber than could comfortably reach out and touch an elk/moose/grizz at 300-ish yards.  308/30-06 class or hotter in other words.   Not saying lots of people haven't done it with smaller/less powerful, but I've shot enough elk with a .303 British to know that something just a little bigger is in order (never seen an exit wound - even on a 15 yards broadside shot).

Quick: thanks for that extra bit of info.

[quickdtoo]

Maybe a change in bullets is in order, I've shot a lot of elk with 180gr Failsafes from a .308Win, have never recovered a bullet yet in shots out to about 125yds, none made over that, hunting mostly in timber, most tween 80-100yds.

Tim

[brotherjack]

Not at all disagreeing with you on the good bullet front - I'm all for using them!  But I do note that a factory Winchester loaded 180 grain failsafe out of a .308 is still going faster at 150 yards than a 180 grain flung out of my .303 British is going at the muzzle.     At 125 yards, that .308 hit the elk harder than my .303 would if I pressed it against his shoulder before I pulled the trigger - and the failsafe is designed to penetrate much better than my humble little PowerPoint's.   I guess what I'm trying to say, that IMHO, the .308 (or 30-06) is a very 'comfortably big enough' round for an elk.   I would call my .303 an 'adequately big enough' round.

P.S. - my comment about "something bigger" for elk hunting was (supposed to be) in reference to the 30-30, 357, 44 mag, and such.