Author Topic: cleaning a Ruger Old Army stainless? (Read 1709 times)

hans g./UpS · « **on:** May 25, 2003, 04:03:31 AM »

I'm considering getting a Ruger Old Army stainless.I'm familiar with cleaning single shot m/ling pistols.
Can the Ruger be dunked in hot or boiling water[minus the grips of course] to clean it? Seems like it would be simpler than totally dis-assembling it.
Thanks.

Chris · « **Reply #1 on:** May 25, 2003, 05:07:13 AM »

That's the drill. Remove the grips and set-aside. Pull the cylinder, rammer and loading lever and submerge all of the hard parts in hot soapy water...take the toothbrush to it, rinse it, dry it completely and apply a little oil. Don't get lazy and leave in nipples in the cylinder...screw them out and give the cylinder a good brushing.

Been cleaning mine in this manner for fifteen years. It doesn't get any easier...ZERO problems.

...Be Safe! ...Chris

Gatofeo · « **Reply #2 on:** May 25, 2003, 07:17:55 AM »

When the Ruger Old Army in stainless steel was introduced in the 1970s, I recall a test report in a magazine.
In this report, it was cleaned by removing the grips and placing it in a dishwasher with regular dishwasher powder! :eek:
The author reported it came out perfectly clean.
Now, I'm not suggesting this for a number of reasons, but has anyone ever tried this? Or was that writer prevaricating (a gun writer lie? Oh mercy me, tell me it ain't so!), exaggerating or stoopid?
My understanding is that not ALL of the parts in a stainless steel Ruger OA are of stainless steel. Seems like this treatment would surely rust ferric parts.
Am I wrong on this?
Also, I recall another gun writer years ago who claimed to return from the range, jump nekkid into the shower, and scrub his Ruger Old Army in the shower, leaving it and HIM clean.
Dunno about this either. Seems like B.S. to me.
I own and shoot 5 different reproduction cap and ball revolvers. All of them are cleaned in hot, soapy water and then dried at a low heat in the oven.
None are worse for wear and, in fact, spotless because the hot, soapy water helps remove all fouling and the oven treatment chases out any vestiges of moisture.
While still warm, I oil them liberally and reassemble. After 24 hours in a heavy coat of oil, I remove the excess oil with a rag.

As for cleaning a stainless steel gun in the dishwasher, there may be a hazard attached. Nearly all ammunition contains lead, whether in the projectile or primer. This lead in the fouling will be washed out and spread all over the interior of the washer.
Then, along comes a load of dishes to be cleaned. The washer again spreads the lead over your dishes. Granted, it may not be much lead but over time it can add up.
Lead is a toxic substance. It can cause serious health problems or even death if enough gets in your system.
It might take years of dishwashing to get an appreciable amount of lead in your system but who wants it? Lead of any amount in your system is not good.

Dan Chamberlain · « **Reply #3 on:** May 25, 2003, 11:49:13 AM »

I would think, since we are told to wash our hands after handling lead, that the residue would indeed wash off! One would believe that the residue in the dish washer would not adhere to the surface, but rather it would also wash off during the wash and rinse cycles. I'm not a proponent of this method as I am not lazy, but I can't believe there is any inherent danger in the practice.

Dan C

Alice Cooper · « **Reply #4 on:** May 28, 2003, 10:23:33 AM »

if you give that ruger a good squirt of windex at the range after you finish shooting, most of the fouling will wash off right there...i can't see any harm in using the dishwasher either, thats where our glock frames go!

Flint · « **Reply #5 on:** May 28, 2003, 10:58:33 AM »

I use MP7 and/or Ballistol to clean my BP guns, and have no problems. Sometimes I'll use water, but it's slower overall. Windex is a good field juice. Best is the version containing Vinegar rather than the most common one with ammonia. (be careful with vinegar on a blued gun, however) With SS no problem.

Holiday · « **Reply #6 on:** May 28, 2003, 04:28:22 PM »

I don't know about the Old Army, but we have a shooter who uses the dish washer for his stainless Vaquero after shooting black powder loads and he says this works well. I have also talked to others who have used this method. They say they run it through the dryer cycle and then use oil or WD-40 on the inerds. Now, that being said, I would caution against this method. Not for any damage to the firearm, but because it would be exposing your eating utensils to lead and powder fouling that may remain after the wash cycle. If you do this, run the dish washer through a few cycles, empty, to clean it.

howdy doody · « **Reply #7 on:** May 28, 2003, 06:41:14 PM »

I shoot the stainless ROAs and never need to go through a drill like all that. I simply remove the cylinder and dump it into a plastic bowl full of hot water and a dab of dish soap. I then windex the bore and frame and grab an old toothbrush and brush the top strap, flash plate, hammer and slot. I then Q tip the cylinder pin hole and around the hammer. Then clean the bore with a patch and dry the whole thing with a small air compressor I have that is normaly for tire inflating and clean the cylinder and scrub the nipples with the toothbrush. Lube it all up and reassemble. Two revolvers 15 minutes tops and I have checked the inside of the frame and I have no build up of anything since I quit using ballistol, which was kind of gooky. Mine run flawless for 6 stages with Clean Shot powder. That is what works for me. There must be as many methods as there are ROA owners.

Flint · « **Reply #8 on:** May 28, 2003, 09:28:17 PM »

From what I've heard, Cleanshot and Ballistol don't mix well. I had problems shooting a cartridge load (45Colt) in my R&D Remingtons, the ballistol did not lube the cylinder pin with Cleanshot as it does with Black Powder. Worked better with 777, but the 777 blast is strong and cuts through the lube. The Remington seriously needs a cylinder extension (gas ring) like the Colt SAA. The 1872 Open top has a ring/extension that I'm thinking of copying over to the percussion 51/61/60 etc. The Open top and other cartridge revolvers need the extension for the headspace control, and enshake is more critical than on a percussion.

howdy doody · « **Reply #9 on:** May 29, 2003, 02:31:40 PM »

Howdy Flint,
Well, I believe it is ClearShot that doesn't mix well with ballistol. In fact I have heard it makes a real mess. I have been shooting Clean Shot, now called American Pioneer for a couple of years now and almost exclusively.
Ballistol is good with that. In fact anything will work. All I use anymore is Breakfree in rifle and pistols and silicone spray in SXS. Sound opposite from what we always heard? Yup, but I like it best now. You don't need BP lube on bullet either. My guns are trouble free for an entire match, cartridge or C&B. I will occasionally need a drop of break free on my Remmy pins though. Just the way I do it, your mileage may vary. :-)

Flint · « **Reply #10 on:** May 29, 2003, 08:07:51 PM »

Howdy, Howdy, I've been a happy user of Break-Free for many years. It's hard to beat for general gun lubing. Thing to avoid except for washing engine parts or lubing a wetstone is WD-40. It will dry to a sticky varnish over time and is NOT a lubricant. I've been experimenting with Cleanshot and 777 recently, and my main problem with 777 is the price. It's hot stuff and I don't fear it in a Ruger, but I haven't loaded a full chamber in the Remmy. I did load 45Colt with it and shot in an R&D cylinder in the Remington, and it is a serious load!!!! Makes Cleanshot feel like a 36. A loaded Ruger Old Army recoils like a cartridge 44 and hits the steel plate as hard as a cartridge gun. Both Cleanshot and 777 are excellent 45-70 powders.

howdy doody · « **Reply #11 on:** May 30, 2003, 05:48:20 AM »

Howdy Flint. I am in total agreement about WD40 with you. I used Breakfree forever when I shot only smokeyless and I tried the Murphys soap/alcohol/peroxide followed by ballistol route when I started in on BP, then over the years I would try this and that and now it is windex or 409 glass cleaner for cleaning and Breakfree for protecting and lubing.
I tried the 777 last year and thought it was way to powerful for me at my load of 30grs. I have since used it in my long range cartridges with good success. It is some powerful stuff. I have a pard that shoots 777 in ROAs and is actually a top shooter with them. He uses a load of 15gr and a fibre vegetable wad and 457 ball rammed down with a 358 dia bullet for a spacer. He swears by the load. His accuracy is good, he can not clean on a 3 day shoot and clean up is nothing. However, BP is a class that should have fire, soot and smoke. His loads do smoke, but not very much and that is one reason I shoot Clean Shot/American Pioneer, because I want to have no doubt what class I shoot and I have found of all the powders, it smokes the most. In fact it smokes too much in humidity. I don't get much humidity around my area, your mileage may vary.
Now, about ClearShot. I do believe that the factory blew up and I haven't seen it around here for sale for a while, but I don't really look for it. I have never tried it. I have had more than one pard tell me to never use Ballistol around it or it is a real mess. Otherwise they liked it, but then again I don't think it smokes as much as real BP and certainly not as much as Clean Shot. IMHO :-)
Say Flint, you know how nosey I am and all, but I must ask. Are you Flint Westwood? Just curious is all, but I think to myself with this much experience and all I wonder if he is.

Flint · « **Reply #12 on:** May 30, 2003, 06:38:44 AM »

Howdy, no I'm not Flint Westwood, but he shoots in this area. There are a few others, Flint Greasewood, shoots at Ojai and Piru. There's also Clint Westwood down here. I'm just plain "Flint", got there with the name first...SASS number 976. Flint Westwood is SASS #94, so he wanted that name as it is. Picture of me and other Hole in the Wall members at www.holeinthewall.org. HITW has two Louis L'Amour names, Flint and Borden Chantry.

As to Ruger OA, I found that even with real black powder, a Ruger will shoot all day, the cylinder gas ring keeps the fouling out of the cylinder pin gap. Currently playing with a '51 Navy Uberti I put a Kirst Konverter in, shooting 148 gr hollow base wadcutters. It's as accurate on paper as a revolver with a 357 bore, so the theory works. I have another Kirst on order to put in a '61 Navy. Friend of mine (Marshall Sturm) has two, and he has a problem of the fired cases backing out and jamming the cylinder, which mine doesn't do. His chambers are clean and smooth, mine show toolmarks. We think that's the reason. More chamber pressure would help him, but the hollowbase doesn't like too much, the best is 3.0 gr Titegroup. Black powder, Bullseye and W231 don't stop his "ejection".

howdy doody · « **Reply #13 on:** May 30, 2003, 07:38:41 AM »

OK, now I think I have all the names and stuff sorted out, until I forget that is

I did meet a couple from your club last year at the John Wayne Shootout and I promise to shoot with you folks sometime. My daughter lives in Simi and that would be close and a good excuse too.

Yes, the ROAs will shoot all day. Once in a while I will need to dry toothbrush the nipples is all I need to do. I use #10 Rem caps. Now my remmies are another story, but I gave the a tad more cylinder clearance and they aren't too bad. I give them a couple of drops of Breakfree and away I go. :-)

Flint · « **Reply #14 on:** May 30, 2003, 12:09:24 PM »

OK, you are welcome down here. I live in Simi as do many other members... Let me know, and we'll lead you to the range. It's in Piru, about 40 minutes away over the mountain.

howdy doody · « **Reply #15 on:** May 30, 2003, 02:12:30 PM »

Thanks for the invite Flint. I will try to do my best to make it this summer. Maybe towards August if I can. I will certainly give ya a holler.