Author Topic: M1 Garand (Read 491 times)

GrampaMike · « **on:** May 14, 2006, 01:44:47 PM »

I bought a M1 Garand (CMP certified) this weekend, my first, boy what a sweet feeling rifle. Rebuilt by Fulton Armory. Is there any special ammo that it likes, or anything I should NOT use. Or some publication I should read before firing this rifle. Thanks, Mike.

lostsniper308 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 14, 2006, 06:36:34 PM »

99% of modern factory is made with powder that it harmful to the op-rod, or so i hear. We got a International harvester M1 Garand and we buy noncorrosive Korean surplus already in En Bloc clips from sportsmansguide.

Castaway · « **Reply #2 on:** May 14, 2006, 11:48:41 PM »

Go to the CMP site, http://www.odcmp.com/ for technical info on your Garand. It will show you how to clean/lube the rifle. Can't help you on what to shoot as I reload for mine.

GrampaMike · « **Reply #3 on:** May 15, 2006, 07:00:20 AM »

Thanks guys,

Sorry about being unclear, I did mean "loads", I reload for all my calibers. I meant any SPECIAL brass, primers, powder or bullets that I should use or NOT use.

Thanks for the Link, will go there next.

Mike

Castaway · « **Reply #4 on:** May 15, 2006, 07:53:49 AM »

Slow powders and Garands don't mix. They cause too much impulse on the operating rod. IMR 4895 is the classic powder for US military loads with a 150 grain FMJ. I use surplus bullets from Widener's and surplus powder. The CMP site gives loading guidance for 150 and 165 grain bullets. Essentially, they tell you to load the 150's to 2,900 - 2,950 f/s with 4895. Don't recall the heavier bullets as I don't load them myself.

Blammer · « **Reply #5 on:** May 16, 2006, 12:10:17 PM »

the old axe about powders is

any powder faster than IMR 4064 is good and any bullet lighter than 172 gr is good.

any primer will work, most say Federal are too soft use others and you'll be fine, any brass is good too

S.S. · « **Reply #6 on:** May 17, 2006, 07:58:18 AM »

There were some problems with some of the European ammo having
softer brass and the Garand simply tore the head off of it.
Anything with the NNY (cyrilic letters but it looks like NNY) headstamp I would stay away from with a semi-auto. It works fine in bolt actions though. You will find that headstamp
on some of the HOT-SHOT cases, Hansen and the New Wolf premium line.
Maybe others too but I have seen the headstamp on these.
An Investment in a broken shell extractor is a good Idea for any caliber gun you have anyway so I would pick one up just in case.