M12 Sideplate Screws

[DWTim]

Hi folks. I need your help.

Ever have one of those days where you have your mind on something else, so you try to occupy your mind doing something you love? Yeah, me too. But there are times when it's better to just take a walk.

So a year ago I was checking the tightness of the screws in my DW 12 after a day at the range, because sometimes they get loose after shooting on a hot day. So I buggered the top side-plate screw. Instead of pounding the metal back in the hex cap and letting it cool, I had to push the issue.

Result: Nice rounded crater in the screw head.

The gun was fine, and I continued to shoot it, but recently, after cooling down in the basement gun cabinet, it came loose enough to remove. I had already purchased replacement side-plate screws from DW last summer for this occasion.

Problem: The DW M15 uses smaller screws. Uh oh!

I begged Genny at DW to look for the old-style side-plate screws. No luck.

So, I'm not sure what I have here. Best guess is a 5-40 with a hex cap head that can be no larger than 0.163" (5/64" drive). For the life of me, I can't find anything like this. The fact that I need it made from a certain material doesn't help the selection, either.

If you've got some ideas or vendors, please let me know. I suppose a fillister head screw will work too. If all else fails, I have considered the possibility of opening up the head recess to 0.200"-0.205". I suppose a more fantastical idea is to reduce the diameter of the screw head. What do you think?

Thanks in advance.

[DWTim]

Okay, problem solved.

For future reference, here's the relevant information:

The screws have a 5-40 pitch thread. Best solution is to get a hold of a typical 5-40 hex socket cap screw w/ 3/32" drive, and longer than it needs to be. It's better to be a little longer on the upper screw, because the one that comes with the gun has maybe three threads holding it in. The lower screw needs to be exact, because it sticks out of the other side of the frame.

Anyway, you take a 5-40 hex socket cap screw and reduce in a lathe the diameter of the head from 0.200-0.205" to no more than 0.162". Then you shave the bottom of the socket head to thread diameter, to adjust the height of the screw head, and so the drive doesn't get too shallow.

Then cut the screw to the appropriate length (a little longer on the upper screw if it's like mine, at 0.312".) The guy that did it for me also shaved a little of the top of the head to get it close to flush, but we decided not to go any more, or I'd be in the same boat when I went to turn it again.

Also, in case this part isn't obvious: The socket cap screw can't be nylon, brass or zinc. You want a good steel part.

So there you go, best solution, and you get a larger socket drive. Now all I have to do is blue it.