whats the best way to remove lead buid up from a mzldr barrel ???

[zermatt7]

Hi,

I just picked up an older T/C Renegade I'm refinishing...I've done all the proper steps in clean ing the barrel I' ve read on here...several times !

I can get the patch to come out perfectly clean...Then I run a brush down the bore with a " little " Hoppes 9 or nitro solvent on it and the patches come out black again !!!

This is'nt a few minutes deal...I have repeated this process several times over days, and the patches still com out black after a quick brushing...Even let it soak for a few days with solvent in the barrel....Allready tried the foaming bore cleaners.

The brush is new/clean
Its not rust...the barrel looks great using a bore light.
the solvent is clear when applied

Anybody have any good suggestions ?
Thanks
Eric

[GregP42]

I have a question,

Is it a brass brush? I have that happen from the #9 or any bore cleaner that cuts copper, if I use a brass brush it will come out black, now if I use a plastic or stainless steel one it comes out clean. Something for you to think about.

Greg

[Slamfire]

The easiest way to get down to bare steel is an Outers Foul Out. No work, electroplating does the job. 

[quickdtoo]

Eric,

The best lead remover that I've used is WipeOut, I had terrible leading in the bore of a muzzleloader, tried everything that I had, then read on the their web site that WipeOut won't remove lead, but it will break down the alloys in lead. Foamed the bore, left it overnight, next day I was getting flakes of lead on patches, a little brushing and one more overnight and the bore was completely lead free!!

A home brew that I've read of, but never tried, that's supposed to be great for lead fouling is equal parts of 3% hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar poured to fill the bore and left for no more than 15 minutes, then rinsed with hot water and brushed.

Tim

http://www.sharpshootr.com/wipeout.htm

SPECIAL NOTE FOR ALL SHOOTERS SHOOTING LEAD BULLETS.

We specifically state that Wipe-out does not dissolve lead.  Most chemicals that dissolve lead produce a galvanic reaction.  This reaction in effect acts like a battery.  In most cases it will etch steel ( both stainless and carbon steel).  It is for this reason that we don't use chemicals that specifically work on lead.

We use chemicals that will dissolve the other metals ( tin , antimony, zinc, etc.) that are incorporated in most bullet alloys.  So we work to destroy the integrity of the bullet alloy, and it begins to come apart in small black flakes.  This process takes about 24 to 36 hours.

So while Wipe-Out™ does not dissolve lead , it will degrade the alloy so that it can be pushed out with a tight patch. 

[Will Bison]

Yea, if you use a copper brush it's going to come out black with the #9, that's what it's for, to disolve copper fouling from jacketed bullets. Obviously it can't tell the difference from a brass/copper brush and bore fouling.

Sounds like you probably have a good clean bore right now. Go shoot and see what happens.

Bill

[fffffg]

  please dont use stainless steel on your bore..  it will rough it up...  you want, over the years to eventially polish it so well that when you load, the fouling will slide down being pushed ahead  of the ball and set on top of the powder without sticking to the bore..  if the ball slides over the fouling you can get blow by and this can create wider groups..  the best black powder bores are professionally lapped and verrry smooth..  but with round ball and patches your going to eventually get her verry smooth if you dont damage it.. ..  dave

[ljburns]

I use a bore snake.

[zermatt7]

The brush I used was a bronze bore brush with the hoppes...that might explain the black

Tim,  I'll try the wipe out !

[Idaho Ron]

I might be wrong but I don't think you have a lead buildup. Use windex and no brush, I bet it looks clean.   Ron

[quickdtoo]

Eric, you'll have no doubt if it's lead after an overnight WipeOut application, if it is lead, it'll come out in small flakes on patches. Don't get the WipeOut on any traditional stock finish, it will remove it or at least dull it. It great for copper fouling too, the best I've ever used, and I used to be a dyed in the wool Hoppe's lover for 40+yrs!

Tim

[sharps4590]

I've been following this thread and have been wondering about the lead you speak of.  If the rifle was fired using PRB I don't see how there could be any lead in the bore.  If Maxi's or some other bare conical was used without lube it's possible.  I notice it is a used rifle.  Is it possible find out if PRB or conicals were used? 

I'm thinking along the lines of some of the other posters that the bore is clean and what you're seeing is the deterioration of the copper bore brush.  You should have seen some lead flakes come out of the bore if it is indeed lead and while sometimes difficult to see, you should be able to see some lead deposits in the rifling or on the lands.  My gut tells me your bore is clean.

Using quick's method you'll know right quick!

Vic