Author Topic: Stripping Marlin and CZ stock finishes  (Read 1193 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline dubber123

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 435
Stripping Marlin and CZ stock finishes
« on: February 08, 2007, 09:14:32 AM »
I have a new Marlin 1894 CL in 32-20 that I want to re-do the stock on.  I want to do a hand rubbed oil finish, but understand the Mar-Shield finish can be a bear to remove.  I can just sand it off, but that leaves me with the problem of the checkering.  I don't want a oil finished stock with shiny, different color checkering.   The same question for a 2 year old CZ 550 6.5X55 FS.   Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Offline 7x57mm

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 194
Re: Stripping Marlin and CZ stock finishes
« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2007, 04:38:08 PM »
dubber: I used about two bottles of Citri-Strip you can buy out of Wally World. Let me tell you from the outset that getting the finish off of the CZ is going to be a job and a half. I used the citri-strip for the first three applications and then used the citri-strip with a scotch-brite (green) scouring pad to remove the stubborn areas. For the checkering use a hard-style tooth brush to get into the checkering. It will do the job. Tom P

Offline gunnut69

  • Moderators
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5005
Re: Stripping Marlin and CZ stock finishes
« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2007, 08:17:08 PM »
I've not redone a 550 so what kind of finish is it.. poly?. The 452's have a lacquer finish and it scrapes of with little effort. If there's a poly finish just use a bit of heat, I use a propane torch, and bubble the finish a bit. The heat destroys the polymers and allows the material to be easily scraped off. I use and old butch knife to rmove the bubbled finish. Do a small patch at a time as the stuff comes off easier when its still warm. Don't burn the finish as this will scortch the wood underneath. You won't get it all but that's OK as what's left will crumble away when lightly sanded and not clog the paper.. Usually unless there's damage I start the sanding process with 220 grit or worn 100 grit. The idea is to remove the finish without altering the shape of the wood.. Still don't like strippers on wood. they could be absorbed and are hust caustic base chenicals such as lye. That could well play billyhob with the metal at some later date.. It happened to Browning and I just avoid stripper as a matter of course.. Also when this was a business I could spend that many hours on a single stock refinish and make any money at all. The heat and scraping with a light sanding will even remove the RKW finish used on so many Remingtons. 
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline dubber123

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 435
Re: Stripping Marlin and CZ stock finishes
« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2007, 11:39:50 PM »
7x57 and gunnut, thanks for the replies, I have done the heat stripping thing, but know it can play havoc on the checkering before you can heat to the bottoms of the checkering grooves.  On the CZ, it may not be a problem, I have thought about sanding the checkering off any way.  On the Marlin though, I don't think I have that oiption, as the rear stock is close to receiver size, so I don't think I have enough material to work with.  Gunnut, Yes I believe the finish is some kind of polyurethane or epoxy.  Thanks again.

Offline gunnut69

  • Moderators
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5005
Re: Stripping Marlin and CZ stock finishes
« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2007, 07:43:59 PM »
The remingtons use a reverse image pressed checkering and heat followed by a light wire brush remove nearly all the finish. You may well be right about cut checkering.. If working filled cut or positive image pressed checkering I heat the checkering and brush out what I can. I then often clean the checkering with a single line cutter from borwnells. It has a single teeth saw cut into a 'V' shaped blade.. The saw cuts that formed the teeth are fairly large and the advantage of the tool is the it can be easily cleaned and resharpened..  Much bettter for this process than a file type cutter. A single tooth cutter is also handy and it is made to cut on the pull stroke.. I have also played with solvents in these hard to reach areas and had some luck with acetone,., which pretty much desolves every thing.. Once the finish is softened in the checkering a wire brush easily removes it..
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline dubber123

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 435
Re: Stripping Marlin and CZ stock finishes
« Reply #5 on: February 10, 2007, 01:42:20 AM »
Thanks again, Gunnut, I have a friend that does his own checkering, I bet he has one of the cutters you're talking about.

Offline glshop20

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 168
Re: Stripping Marlin and CZ stock finishes
« Reply #6 on: February 11, 2007, 11:12:54 AM »
If you are still looking, try Zip-Strip or Wonder Paint remover.  They are available at most paint stores.  They will eat thru any finish with no harm to the wood.  Be sure to wear the right gloves and glasses, and do it in good ventilation.  Bare wood very quick.

Offline dubber123

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 435
Re: Stripping Marlin and CZ stock finishes
« Reply #7 on: February 11, 2007, 01:33:32 PM »
Thanks, I know I can get the Zip-Strip, I will have to look for the other stuff.