Action jig

[sluggo]

 This isn't pretty guys, but it's simple & easy to make. And it works.
 I had scrap 3/8" plywood lying around, Roto-zipped the outline of the action on two pieces.
 Two more pieces with just the pin area zipped out. Glues the whole bundle together and squared it up.
 Had to add veneer to make action flush (2nd time around I'd use pine or another soft wood for ease of planing/belt sanding.)
 Piece of piano hinge secure to block & Lexan, drill pin holes.
 $2.00 for Lexan
 Had the piano hinge, I believe I paid $8-9.00 for a 4ft. hinge some time ago (make a half dozen more.)
 You don't have to be too particular with cutting (obviously I wasn't,) as long as action hits in a few spots will stay secure. If there's too much slop, you can always slide a couple of small wedges between action and wall.
Sorry about the camera flash, should have shot it with camo paint., so I could sneak up on it.

[quickdtoo]

Looks good except the pin holes are a little too big and can allow the punch to get off the pin and on the frame, a problem I had until I made the holes the same size as the pins.  I like the hinge idea, much easier to set up. I've added a link to the FAQs for future reference.

Tim

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/smf/index.php/topic,86977.0.html

[sluggo]

  Your right Quick, you'd think a man who owns 3 of every tool would have the right drill bit, the price of having two sons (Hey I have to blame someone.) Lexan will get replaced with correct dia. holes drilled.

[sluggo]

 Also, an alternative to planing/sanding to make action flush would be to apply some felt adhesive pads to the underside of the Lexan. If it's deep, you could probably use something like the rubber feet they use on stereos and computers, cut the rubber to fit Attach with a bolt/machine screw through the Lexan w/nut. Both should give you pressure to keep action from moving when drifting the pins. I suppose you could make a catch/latch to hole Lexan down, I just lean on it.