lock time on Ruger #1, and trigger

[espalding]

I'm considering the #1 stainless laminated in .308 but may end up with Tikka T3 stainless laminated, for plenty of offhand shooting.  My guess is that the ruger could be "tuned to shoot fine" but might not.
How does the lock time on a #1 compare with a bolt action, say relative to a Rem 700 or if you know, a Tikka T3?
Can the #1 factory trigger be competently smithed to no creep and under 3lb?
Thanks

[Fred M]

espalding.
Yes a #1 can be completly tuned to 3# minus trigger pull.  My 25-06 is 30oz. I also installed a Mould Speed lock hammer, from Brownell. More than fast enough ignition. with accuracy to near a BR rifle.

3 shot groups at 100 yards are 0.217-0.250". I go up against any Rem or Tikka factory barrel. Besides this rifle is over 20 years old.

On my other #1 and #3, I left the hammer alone and just adjusted the pull weight by honing the sear seat.

You can also install a Kepplinger single set trigger, they are one of the best. A bit pricey at $250. People that have them, love them.

For my shooting the #1 is just fine without trigger complexity. The only rifle I shoot off hand is the #3 in 375Win. Last fall I shot it off the bench at 250 yards and made  a 1.75" 3shot group with 200gr Factory loads. Well you know how old the #3 rifles are.

Well like the man said above there are very few factory rifles that can compete with a Ruger  single shot #1  or #3 they are simply in a class by themself.

[Lone Star]

The #1's lock time is far slower than about any bolt rifle, certainly slower than a M700.  You are at a disadvantage shooting the #1 or #3 offhand against a good bolt gun.  I know, I used to do it at club "schuetzen" matches.  But then I was also shooting a much slower bullet with a longer barrel time - together it was a tough go against shooters of equal skill.

I was able to reduce the lock time substantially by drilling two 3/8" holes in the hammer and installing a heavy hammer spring.  But the downside was reduced hammer momentum, and ignition with hard rifle primers could be erratic.  I used large pistol primers in my .38-55 cases anyway so that was not a problem.

I currently own a handful of #1 and #3 rifles and love them.  The heaviest trigger on any of them is under 3#. 


.

[tnekkc]

I have ~100 rifles, but only 2 Ruger #1s.

I bought both to rebarrel, but they were both too accurate to rebarrel.

THe last group from the .223 was .5" 5 shot at 100y [it averages 1"]
The last group from the 7mmMag was 1" 3 shot at 100y. [it averages 1.5"]

I need to do something about the trigger on the .223 if I want to see just how accurate the stock Ruger barrel really is.

I am now looking for another Ruger #1 to re barrel to 6mmBR.

I prefer to shoot Ruger #1s over other rifles from the bench or at varmints.
The falling block design is great.
The book, Single shot rifles and actions by De Haas explains the design.
http://dehaas.com/guns/

[6.5BR]

Tnekkc,

If you want a TACKDRIVING 6mm BR in a Ruger #1, I have it.  Email me at cliffcasino1@hotmail.com for details.