Author Topic: Wasted money?  (Read 1730 times)

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Offline Doctor Sam

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Wasted money?
« on: July 19, 2003, 07:44:39 PM »
I think I may have wasted my money buying Lyman's latest cast bullet handbook.  Looks as if all their loads use shotgun powder and velocities way under 1800 fps.
Where can I find reliable loading data for the 8 X 57mm and the 6.5 X 55mm using heavy, long, cast gas check bullets?
Many thanks, Gentlemen.
 :rain:
Dr. Sam

Offline Lloyd Smale

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Wasted money?
« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2003, 01:44:59 AM »
possibly here http://www.castpics.net/about.htm if not someone there will help you
blue lives matter

Offline Graycg

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Wasted money?
« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2003, 07:07:24 AM »
I have some old data from Lyman cast bullet manuals 1 and 2 for 218 grain gas check bullets and 2400, 4227, 4759, 4198, 3031, ball C, 4064, and Unique  if you are interested I can try to scan and email to you.  You can contact me at graycg@aol.com

regards,
 Graycg
"Secretly you want me on that wall; you need me on that wall"  
 Colonel Nathan Jessup

Offline Doctor Sam

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Wasted Money
« Reply #3 on: July 22, 2003, 09:43:47 AM »
My thanks to you both for your assistance.  I'll go and play with the data.
SMA
Dr. Sam

Offline Paul H

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Wasted money?
« Reply #4 on: July 22, 2003, 10:29:36 AM »
Don't dismiss the moderate loads with shotgun powders.  Many of them produce outstanding accuracy, and they are very pleasant to shoot.

Offline Oldfeller

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Big heavy 8mm bullets and full cases of powder
« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2003, 08:37:59 AM »
There are available some very large and heavy 250 grain 8mm bullets with wide flat hunting meplats that were intended to be driven at 2,100 fps or slightly better with a full case of your favorite "slower" commercial 30-06 powders.

Please note, these bullets are not "user friendly" to shoot at these speeds, they kick like a shock-prodded mule (just letting you know up front).   At full speeds, the big 8mm Maximum will slightly outperform a cast round-nose .35 Whelen bullet at up to 200 yards distance on both retained speed and energy and the wound channel generated when they hit meat.  

They will also kick about as bad as a Whelen does in giving this very good hunting performance out of a slightly smaller bore.

However, if you will slow them down to 1,650 to 1,750 fps the accuracy is outstanding and they will still kill a deer very easily at those more pleasant to shoot and more accurate lower speeds.

The bullets are listed at Midsouth on the expert cast bullet page.

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/so_moulds_8mm_max.asp

If you poke around the expert cast bullet page a bit and look, you will find the 8mm Karabiner, which has an even more aggressive flat meplat in an lighter bullet -- much better suited to eastern deer hunting and pure target applications.

Hey Paul, how is it doing?

Oldfeller

Offline lewisgoldstein

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Wasted money?
« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2003, 07:50:58 AM »
Dr. Sam
I do not know what velocities you want to shoot, and I do not have a lot of experience with the calculator yet, but this would seem to me to be a good place to use Lee's "Reduced Load Calculation", as there is a lot of reloading information for heavy bullets at full jacketed velocities for these two cartridges. - Lew

I would love for you to add your name to the 8 mm backorder list so I can order the two heavy 8 mm bullets. We need a cumulative order of 25 to get an order going.

Offline Doctor Sam

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Wasted money
« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2003, 08:22:18 AM »
Thanks to you both Oldfeller and Lew.  I am on the backorder list for Oldfeller's Maximum bullet with MidSouth.  Be glad to get it.  Come on Oldfeller and tell us some names: I assume by slow powders you mean H4831, 4350,7828, and the like.  What is your recommendation for the 1600-1700 velocity with the 250gr bullet?  I have one similar now and an old Lyman manual lists 12gr of Unique; 16gr of 2400, and 17gr of IMR 4227 as starting loads.  These sound about right to you?  What is your favorite for this velocity?  Your recommendation of 11.5gr of Unique with your heavy 6.5 bullet worked well.  Needs tinkering with to tighten the groups.  Share your experience with us: I'm willing to learn.
Lew, I am not familar with Lee's calculator.  Where did you find it?
Thanks again.
Doctor Sam
Dr. Sam

Offline Oldfeller

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Wasted money?
« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2003, 03:35:48 AM »
OK, Doctor's orders - use a full case of IMR 5010 and a magnum primer for a nice, easy shooting moderate speed load.   WC872 can be substituted for IMR 5010.  These are both surplus 50 BMG powders that get used a lot by the cast-a-holics on Shooters because they are cheap.  These are mil-surp pull down powders that are bought in 4 jug case lots from Hi-Tech for about $7 a pound.  These loads behind a 250 grain bullet do not kick any worse than a 30-06 does.

Use mil-surp IMR 7383 starting at 80% of case capacity to get a higher powered load.  Work this up by normal reloading proceedures to whatever amount of recoil you and your gun can handle, all the way up to  a full case if you can stand the kick and your stock doesn't split on you.  This mil-surp "spotter powder" runs between IMR 4064 and IMR 4831 in speed, so if you want a "safe" commercial powder to work up a similar load with then use IMR 4831.

This brings up a point, IMR 7383 looks to be a good cheap jacketed bullet powder.  It has been successfully used in a broad range of jacketed bullet rounds now.  It becomes more consistent the higher you run it up in its pressure range.  Like most pull-down surplus powders, it behaves slightly differently in small cases vs big cases but can be characterized as being slightly faster than IMR 4831 and slightly slower than IMR 4064.  

Understand if people are talking IMR 7383 loads at you and you don't have any you can drop in the commercial IMR 7831 powder because it is slower.  

YOU CAN"T DO THIS BACKWARDS, you can't drop IMR 7383 powder into loads designed for commercial IMR 7831 powder because the pull-down IMR 7383 stuff is slightly faster than commercial IMR 7831 and you will overexpand your case heads (damage your brass) and likely blow out a primer.

IMR 4064 (safe starting loads)  --- IMR 7383 ----  IMR 7831 (don't use these load weights, too much pressure)

So,  I hope this is moderately helpful for you.  If you only use canister powders and still want to bruse your shoulder good with a 8mm 250 grain heavy bullet, just stick with IMR 7831 powder for your heavy loads and you will still be fairly safe.  Just start out with 80% case capacity loads and work up until you begin to lose good accuracy (BTW it's your flinch, mostly).  

The 8mm Max will strip some on the long land rider nose with the heaviest loads but it has caught up with itself by the time the main driver bands engage and engrave, so there is no gas leakage noted even on the nastiest loads.  Leading has never been an issue with the bullets, no matter how agressively they are driven.

Once you shoot a few hundred of these babies you will find 30-06 and 7 mags are just mild, fun shooting guns.  Your flinch with these milder guns will totally disappear as your body knows what real recoil feels like now.

Now take these heavier powder loads and push a slightly lighter 8mm Karabiner bullet at a deer with them.  Want to talk about a large wound channel pushed all the way through an animal?  

The 8mm Karabiner, she will do it.  She is equipped with the nastiest fast moving lead rifle bullet meplat known to man.

Oldfeller

Offline lewisgoldstein

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Wasted money?
« Reply #9 on: August 04, 2003, 09:38:25 AM »
Oldfeller,
Midsouth lists the two 8 mm bullet weight weights at 215 and 225 grains without gaschecks. Do they need to correct the listing?

Doctor Sam,
Lee has an emperical formula for calculating "reduced loads", based on a bullet weight, and a cannister powder that is not quite optimal for that weight, but better suited for a next lighter bullet weight.
It is in Ch. 8, p.85 of Lee Manual #1. You need  good reloading manuals of cannister powder to use the Lee equation.
Someone correct me if I have it wrong. I have only used it for "What If" to use some of the powders on my shelf. - Lew

Offline Oldfeller

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Wasted money?
« Reply #10 on: August 05, 2003, 02:22:56 AM »
Lew,

The figures they have posted were early prebuild estimates that Lee made off the drawings, apparently using linotype weight metal for the estimate weights since the numbers were consistently light on both bullets.

Midsouth has known about the true weights of the bullets in wheel weight metal since the first week they were cut (the very first lot).  Michael Ryan has also had as-cast and lubed samples of the bullets for posting a picture since back then as well.   Corrected text on the weights was given to him also.

Since then he has put out a full printed catalog and updated his entire web based parts listing for pricing changes and "hasn't had a chance to change the wording yet".

I can sympathize with him, and it really makes no difference because we all know the Karabiner weighs in at 230 grains in WW metal after lubing, and the 8mm Maximum is a massive 250 in WW after lubing.

Priorities and "covering what's hot", I guess I can understand where the man lives because I live there too when I'm at work.   He will catch up with it eventually.

Oldfeller

Offline Kywoodwrkr

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LEE reduced loads
« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2003, 08:49:25 AM »
LGS,
I've used the calculations in the LEE manual and set them up in an EXCEL spreadsheet. Very simple job on that!
There are some very important guidelines in calculating the reduced load.
You can't just pick out a powder and go for it.
LEE reccomends, among some things, finding a mid range load whose CUP/CIP pressure is on the normal high side and velocity is at least 90% of the high for that bullet weight if I remember correctly.
I've got some reduced loads to try but haven't put any over the chronograph yet. FWIW.
DaveP
DaveP   Kywoodwrkr

Offline Doctor Sam

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You guys
« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2003, 07:09:27 PM »
Wow! You guys know some stuff!  Maybe if I stay at this for some time I will continue to learn.  Thanks to all of you for your comments.  This one gets printed for my "book".
Whe it cools off, about mid-October, I can get back to work on some of these rounds.
Doctor Sam
Dr. Sam