Author Topic: Cold Bluing  (Read 1078 times)

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Offline totallycustom

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Cold Bluing
« on: March 26, 2007, 08:44:29 AM »
Fellas,

I am working on a little 22 project rifle lately that needs a little bluing help, its not worth me investing in a hot blue setup but what cold bluing have you used successfully?  I bought some kleen bore black magic, it looks similar in the bottle to the oxphoblue that i wanted to get but could not find locally. Has anyone used the black magic? I know about the prep work involved and the process but just want info on the specific products that have worked well for you.

Thanks in advance.
-TC-
-TC-

Offline Aardvark

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Re: Cold Bluing
« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2007, 04:17:56 PM »
 Try some 44/40 paste..It is a wipe on wipe off paste that has worked better for me than several others I tried...
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Offline Hairtrigger

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Re: Cold Bluing
« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2007, 04:27:40 PM »
Try some 44/40 paste..It is a wipe on wipe off paste that has worked better for me than several others I tried...

What is your secret with the paste? I have not been able to get the paste to leave as consistant of a blue as I have the liquid.

Offline Aardvark

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Re: Cold Bluing
« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2007, 03:13:27 AM »
Try some 44/40 paste..It is a wipe on wipe off paste that has worked better for me than several others I tried...

What is your secret with the paste? I have not been able to get the paste to leave as consistant of a blue as I have the liquid.

 I don't know of any secrets but i usually cover about ten inches of surface, wipe it on and wipe it off..I go over it twice and get good results...Here is a pic of a rebarreled Mauser that was in the white when I got it back and then used 44/40:
 I know the lighting is not that good in the pix but it turned out nicely.



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Offline gunnut69

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Re: Cold Bluing
« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2007, 11:16:45 AM »
You can just order OxphoB;ue from Brownells web catalog. I've used several including Formula 44/40, G96, etc.. They work and some are faster although none worked thru oil as does OxphioBlue,. It saves a lot of time and fussing to simply blue thru a lightly oily surface.. I burnish the blue with 00 steel wool and reapply as needed to achieve the color I'm after.. Once cured the OxphoBlue is tougher than any other I've tried..
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Offline totallycustom

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Re: Cold Bluing
« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2007, 05:59:55 AM »
Update:

I chucked the barrel up in my wood lathe with a specially turned piece to hold the receiver end and then i covered the live center on the tail-stock and carefully balanced/centered it. 

About 15 minutes and some 320 and 400 grit it was looking very nice got most of the rust pits and it is polished up better than factory( this is a win. mod69 that was very neglected).

I cleaned it with soap and water in the sink and then de-greased with denatured alcohol and a steel wool.  Then soaked down a paper towel with the black magic from kleen bore.   I did three coats and rinsed and steel wool buffed in between, the barrel is great but the receiver needs another coat i noticed a few spots when i was oiling it. 

This seems to be a very reactive product it works immediately,and leaves a nice finish.

I have to do all the small parts now, not as easy to polish them on the lathe. - Haha
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Offline db22

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Re: Cold Bluing
« Reply #6 on: April 15, 2007, 07:39:47 AM »
Aardvark: Very nice-looking Mauser! Where did you get the stock? What caliber did you re-barrel to?
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Offline Aardvark

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Re: Cold Bluing
« Reply #7 on: April 15, 2007, 02:29:48 PM »
Aardvark: Very nice-looking Mauser! Where did you get the stock? What caliber did you re-barrel to?

  That is a M38 Turk Mauser caliber 25-06...The stock comes from Brownells produced by a firm called Wood Plus--around $60..I have bought three of those and the wood grain has always been exceptional..Be sure to get the buttplate!
  When rebarreling the 98 series action to any '06 family cartridge, be sure to seat the bullet deep enough to clear the mag well.
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