Pillar Bedded forearm vs Bullberry Hanger Bar system

[7-30 Waters]

Currently, I only have experience with the Bullberry Hanger Bar System for free floating the barrels on my T/C Contender.  I have been considering a pillar bedded forearm to free float my barrel.  I know pillar bedding is a proven method but just wondering if I can really benefit from switching?

Thanks,

Dave Lawrence

[skarke]

I dunno.  I've used both systems, and I think that I like the hanger bar better.  One barrel I have strings a little as the barrel heats up.  The hanger bar helped a lot.  I've handmade a couple of forends out of top quality lathe blocks purchased online for $15.  They are pillar bedded, work with any barrel the same size, and don't seem to have a negative effect from a standard forend.  They might even help by a tenth or 2.

They are both pretty easy to do, try both, and see what you think.

 

[Who Me?]

Skarke

How do you cut the barrel channel in the forend?  Do you use a core box router bit?  I would like to try to make a wider forend with a flat bottom for shooting off a rest.   

[skarke]

I do use a core box bit, but it is only 1/2, so I mark the front of the forend with a line marking the desired dimensions of the channel, less about 1/16th.  Then, I cut several passes, adjusting my guide rail and cutting depth to follow the dimensions of the channel.  Kind of a PITA, but no more often than I make one, it works pretty well.  I clean it up with a brownells barrel channel scraper, and it comes out beautiful.  I have the bottom flat, slightly angled shallower toward the front, and a little of the weight removed with the cove bit bit along the sides.

Looks OK, and takes quite a bit of weight off.

Start with a totally square piece, cut the frame end contour first.  Copy a regular forend, works good.  A scroll saw works great if you aren't going too wide, I used a coping saw and files, very carefully.  Cut the barrel channel next.

My next purchase and shop project:  Buy a 1/2 inch router, a bigger Core Box bit, and build a better jig.  Then it'll be a piece of cake.

Hope this helps,

Dan

[Who Me?]

I do use a core box bit, but it is only 1/2, so I mark the front of the forend with a line marking the desired dimensions of the channel, less about 1/16th.  Then, I cut several passes, adjusting my guide rail and cutting depth to follow the dimensions of the channel.  Kind of a PITA, but no more often than I make one, it works pretty well.  I clean it up with a brownells barrel channel scraper, and it comes out beautiful.  I have the bottom flat, slightly angled shallower toward the front, and a little of the weight removed with the cove bit bit along the sides.



Hope this helps,

Dan

It does help!  Good tip on the barrel channel scraper.  I also thought about buying a used forearm on ebay and then squaring up the sides and bottom on the tablesaw.  Next, I would laminate a thin layer (1/8" maybe) of maple and then a thicker layer of walnut to the forearm to build up the width and bottom of the forearm.   That would save some time spent inletting, etc.   But, being basically thrifty (cheap?  ), I would like to try your method also.  Do you use a hand-held router or is it mounted in a table? 

[skarke]

Handheld with lots of jigging, buy some straight 1/4s, you can screw a reasonable jig together for one time use.  I'm considering making a better jig and trying my hand at making a few for the Ebay crowd, but there are so many fine craftsmen already offering top notch products, its probably not worth my time.

Just a thought though.

[skarke]

I was looking at a standard contender forend for a super 14, and your idea for cutting and gluing just might work.  In fact, with a few chisels, good gluing and clamping, and some patience, you could probably create quite a work of art.  You might consider adding an end piece of solid maple, or something like that, if you were a glutton for punishment.  Much easier would be hacking off the bottom with a band saw, truing it up with a sander, gluing, shaping, and shooting.

Strip eze works great for getting that poly off the wood.

You've got me thinking.

Dan