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Offline CelticCross

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reaming out my 280
« on: July 17, 2007, 04:25:26 PM »
I have my .280 Rem barrel and am ready to get it reamed out to AI. If I rent the reamer from 4D or somewhere how easy is the job?? I really don't want to screw this up. I f it is difficult and needs to be done by a smith then how much should I expect to pay?  I know many on here have already made this conversion and love it. ( Fred M, Quickdtoo)  I know you will steer me in the right direction. Thanks in advance. Ryan
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Offline cwlongshot

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Re: reaming out my 280
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2007, 04:40:58 PM »
Rechambering a barrel like this is certainly in the realm of a do it yourselfer...as long as you have the basic knowledge of hows and whys...

 Gunsmiths generally charge $50 - 100 for rechambering service.

The advantages balistically for this cal are minimal. Only you can decide if its worth while.

God knows I have done more, to get less.... ::)
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Offline trotterlg

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Re: reaming out my 280
« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2007, 04:43:39 PM »
I was under the impression you could not make a real AI chamber without setting the barrel back, which is hard to do on a Handi.  Tell us how you will do this conversion.  Larry
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Offline quickdtoo

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Re: reaming out my 280
« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2007, 04:52:30 PM »
You won't end up with an Ackley chamber that by PO's definition you'd be able to shoot factory ammo in, on the contrary, you'll end up with a 280 improved-Improved which has more case capacity than a true 40º Ackley chamber, .9gr water more in mine compared to Nosler Custom 280 Improved brass. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself, the reamer will cost about $40 to rent, like CW said, a smith will charge $50-$100 to do it on a lathe, properly aligned to the bore with a perfect chamber, or as perfect as the current chamber allows. You can see the fire forming requirements in the FAQs.

Tim
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Offline cwlongshot

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Re: reaming out my 280
« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2007, 04:59:24 PM »
Quote from: trotterlg on July 17, 2007, 04:43:39 PM
I was under the impression you could not make a real AI chamber without setting the barrel back, which is hard to do on a Handi.  Tell us how you will do this conversion.  Larry

 I was not aware of this...

 I thought the whole Atkins claim to fame was slightly improving factory ballistics, easily....Having to set the barrel back, in order to get a good, clean neck/shoulder area, to my mind negates this....

 I fiddled with this AI in my 35 Whelen when I built it back in 1987. I decided to leave the barrel long (26") and chamber to STD dimensions. I figure I am getting close to what I would have with the AI in a 22" bbl anyhow....

CW
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Offline trotterlg

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Re: reaming out my 280
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2007, 05:05:57 PM »
How do you make the fireformed brass if you cannot shoot factory rounds in it?  Larry
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Offline quickdtoo

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Re: reaming out my 280
« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2007, 05:11:00 PM »
Quote
How do you make the fireformed brass if you cannot shoot factory rounds in it?  Larry

That's explained in the FAQs,  Larry. ;)


In a true Ackley chamber, the barrel has to be set back(not possible in a Handi) to maintain orginal head spacing and the ability to shoot factory ammo in it, if it can't shoot factory ammo without fire forming first, it isn't a true Ackley chamber, just an improved chamber. ;)  

Tim
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Offline CelticCross

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Re: reaming out my 280
« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2007, 05:24:50 PM »
Any smiths in Central KY???? ;D I guess I'll have to locate a good smith then and have him do it before modern gun this year.  Tim, since I'll end up with an I-I chamber in stead of an AI one will the Nosler Custom brass in the .280 Rem AI work as is or will it need "fireformed" as well???
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Offline quickdtoo

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Re: reaming out my 280
« Reply #8 on: July 17, 2007, 05:30:29 PM »
The Nosler Custom brass still needs to be fire formed( see Handloading for an improved chambered Handi in the FAQs), I seriously doubt it would even fire without forming a false shoulder first or loading hard into the lands, they'll be recessed in the chamber by about .080" to .100" depending on how deep the chamber is cut. I chose to use the Nosler brass cuz it has the proper headstamp.

Tim

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/smf/index.php/topic,107088.msg1098309995.html#msg1098309995
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Offline CelticCross

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Re: reaming out my 280
« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2007, 05:34:04 PM »
I have also read that the case consistency is great. Is that your experience as well? Thanks for all your responses and info. Ryan
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Offline Fred M

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Re: reaming out my 280
« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2007, 05:34:56 PM »
CelticCross
If I was going to do a hand job, here is the way I would do it. Instead of using a
T-handle I would use a carpenter brace doing 4 or 5 complete reves at
a time and then clean  both the reamer and chamber.

Use a good cutting oil and mop the chamber frequently so no cuttings are left
in the chamber. Ream until your new 280 factory case sticks out from the  barrel face by 0.004".
Then tap all your new brass into the chamber with a flat 1" wood dowel and a
a hammer until the cases are flush with the barrel face.

Fill a case to over flow with 700x shot gun powder and weigh that charge. 25% of that charge weight is your fire forming charge with tightly packed cream of wheat
 on top of the powder. Plug the top of the case with with Crisco or Marge.

This will give you a bonafied 280AI
 
 
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Fred M.
From Alberta Canada.

Offline quickdtoo

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Re: reaming out my 280
« Reply #11 on: July 17, 2007, 05:45:04 PM »
The Nosler Custom brass that I bought was the weight sorted and prepped brass, they also sell seconds. All of the batch I got had primer pockets that needed to be uniformed, or primers were too high. Other than that, they seemed to be very consistent. I have a bag of their seconds but I haven't got into it yet to see if they have the same problem.

Fred, that's a different way to get the .004" crush fit!!! ;D

Tim
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