Author Topic: GREEN MNT BARREL (Read 1780 times)

rex6666 · « **on:** July 31, 2007, 05:07:39 AM »

ordered one for T/C HAWKEN. do these dropin as GM says or do they take some fitting
i am a trigger puller, not much of a fitter although i did build this kit

Idaho Ron · « **Reply #1 on:** July 31, 2007, 07:23:52 AM »

On the renegade there is a little bit of fitting to do. I have heard that on the Hawkins it is not as bad. Ron

Ironwood · « **Reply #2 on:** July 31, 2007, 10:01:07 AM »

The .40 caliber barrel I got for my TC Pennsylvania Hunter just dropped right in with no fitting at all.

encore3006 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 31, 2007, 10:06:31 AM »

I installed a 50 cal. GM in my Renegade and I had to whittle a little wood where the barrel lug fits down into the wood stock. It was hitting one side. I think I removed about 1/32-inch over the length of the lug. Dropped right in and the pin slipped in nice and snug.

roundball · « **Reply #4 on:** July 31, 2007, 12:58:37 PM »

Quote from: rex6666 on July 31, 2007, 05:07:39 AM

ordered one for T/C HAWKEN. do these dropin as GM says or do they take some fitting
i am a trigger puller, not much of a fitter although i did build this kit

I have several GM drop-in using TC Hawken stocks...1-2 dropped right in...but most had one problem or another due to Hawken stock variations over the years.

Most common problem was that the end of the underrib hit the brass nose cap and wouldn't allow the barrel to drop in...had to remove the underrib and used a bench grinder to grind off 1/8" - 3/16" of the end, dabbed some cold blue paste on it, then reinstalled it...had to do that on 3-4 barrels. (Note: Thimbles are not held on with set screws like TC thimbles...takes a tiny screw driver)

Next most common problem is that the wedge pin tenon can hang down too deep into the ramrod channel...it is not recessed up into a dovetail cut into the bottom of the barrel like TCs...it is completely externally screwed onto the bottom of the barrel instead. This can cause the ramrod to be blocked from sliding in all the way. My fix was, since the metal of the tenon was so thick, I used a file and filed off 1/8" of it's bottom and the ramrod cleared it OK.

If the barrel you're getting is for a Flintlock, my experience was to just throw away the GM vent liner and install the new redesigned one from TC...it's a much better, much faster vent liner.

If you didn't notice it, the thimbles are black/blue...not brass so they don't match the Hawken furniture...if that's important that'll be another $20;

The ramrods were black aluminum with silver tips...again, not a match to a Hawken...if that's important, that's another $25 to get a brass one or a decent quality wooden one;

Another interesting fact:
The rear sights are only held on by a single mounting screw...the two holes in the rear sight base do not line up with both of the holes tapped into the barrel...once I discovered this, I removed the single screw and reinstalled it with Loc-Tite.

The barrels shoot like a house-afire, and the exterior problems are surprising considering how good the internals are...I wouldn't part with any of mine but almost every one had to be tinkered with.

Idaho Ron · « **Reply #5 on:** July 31, 2007, 01:43:18 PM »

Another problem is the thimbles. TC thimbles are screwed through the under rib and into the barrel. The GM is threaded into the under rib not the barrel. If you want to put a sling swivel thimble on you will need to use the GM screw and open the end of the swivel stud up enough to get a small screwdriver in it.
On hint. I would take everything off the barrel and clean it good and use locktight to set the screws. Every GM I have has had the screws back out. You can see a picture of one of mine on the .458 thread. I like peep sights on mine. Ron

forest2 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 31, 2007, 04:57:14 PM »

Follow roundballs advise,,cut the rail not the wood.
File the tenon keeper like he said, because their too big,,ya want the wedge to "hold" the barrel in,, not flop around.(take the screws out and file the base of the tenon.)(it's a pita,in-out/in-out).

And yes the sights are cheap.

But the barrels do shoot like a house on fire! and yes they do need to be tinkered with.

OH p.s.,, be careful of the breech nipple threads! some dealers still care the "Helicoil" fix!!!!

rex6666 · « **Reply #7 on:** August 01, 2007, 04:37:40 AM »

are the nipple threads 1/4x28 like the T/C
sinse they have one screw hole in the sights, can you buy a better sight to fit or do you need to drill and tap
you guys never cease to amaze me with the free knowledge.
thank you all

roundball · « **Reply #8 on:** August 01, 2007, 03:46:59 PM »

Yes, 1/4" x 28tpi like TCs

GM had a bad run of drilling & tapping nipple seats and vent liner seats...had a big recall for a couple years...ran out of good breechplugs replacing all the recalled returns...so then they began trying to 'repair' the threaded seats by drilling them out larger, then screwing in a 'helicoil', then screwing a nipple (or vent liner) into the helicoil.

They got so much negative reaction, and some dealers refused to even sell them to customers, that GM abandoned the repair idea.
However, by that time, many repaired barrels had already made their way out onto some store shelves.

If yours arrives with a helicoil in the nipple seat, I urge you to not shoot it...call GM and tell them you want the breech plug replaced with a proper factory plug...they will at no charge, but you'll be without the barrel for 2-3 months so plan on it.
I wouldn't shoot a barrel with a helicoil in it if you gave it to me...that nipple only sits a couple inches from your brain!

rex6666 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 02, 2007, 04:49:19 AM »

i ordered this barrel direct for GM so hopefully it they will have straighted out the problems.
thanks for the "look outs "

rex6666 · « **Reply #10 on:** August 03, 2007, 06:07:30 AM »

OK! guys i have recieved the GM 1-28 50cal barrel i have been drilling you guys about.
it looks like it might have a helicoil in the nipple hole, can't tell for sure but the finish
is different had my shop foreman look at it and he thinks the same.
i have a call in to GM now surely they can tell by the ssrial # if it does, told them to ck.
if it does i don't want it.
i hope these shoot better than they look. the o/s of the barrel looks likr the kit gun
barrel before i finished it. it has been blued over the build scratches, plastic sights but they are fiber optic, i will try them if the nipple seat is ok. it is what the barrel can do that is more important to me than looks (i am not the prettiest picture on the wall, and can't do much either)
the book they sent with it says to use bp ffg in the 50cal 1-28, shooting conicals, i have been shooting fffg in the 1-48, any feed back on that, i would rather hear from shooters
than desk jocks.

forest2 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 03, 2007, 03:35:22 PM »

If you take the nipple out,,and the hole it came from looks your moms forks and spoons, and is not black like the barrel/?,,you got the "heli-coil" fix. GMB will replace/fix it at their cost, and the shipping both way's.
Takes about 6 week's. It's about contact. they mail ya a thing for UPS,,you take the barrel to UPS all boxed up proper, with the free shipping thing they mail ya, and UPS say's TY.6 weeks later or so, you get the barrel back with a new breech that has nipple threads for just the nipple.

roundball · « **Reply #12 on:** August 03, 2007, 03:53:36 PM »

Quote from: rex6666 on August 03, 2007, 06:07:30 AM

"...the book they sent with it says to use bp ffg in the 50cal 1-28, shooting conicals, i have been shooting fffg in the 1-48, any feed back on that, i would rather hear from shooters than desk jocks.

2F or 3F will both work...I use Goxx 3F for everything in every caliber that I can because it's faster and cleaner than 2F.
However 2F is a little easier in the recoil department with heavy projectiles.

NOTE:
If you decide to use 3F and don't have any actual 3F load data, you can use 2F load data but the rule of thumb is to reduce the amount of 3F by 10-15%...since it's faster burning it has a faster pressure spike and higher pressure overall...the reduction keeps the pressure in the same ballpark as the 2F load data.....ie: if you want to use a 100grn 2F load data, only use 85grns of 3F.

rex6666 · « **Reply #13 on:** August 06, 2007, 05:34:38 AM »

ok guys GM says the barrel is ok, no helicoil
it fell into my stock like it was made for it, except fro the pin that holds the barrel in was a
little tighter, but no marks on the stock, but the ramrod is a bear to get in the stock,
almost looks like the barrel guides push it out away from the stock, hits the brass end cap
about 1/16th off center, have to squeeze it in to make it go in. will make it pop a few time this afternoon.

Ironwood · « **Reply #14 on:** August 06, 2007, 11:58:22 AM »

Rex, could it be you need to adjust this little clip? I could be bent out to much or in to much. Just a thought.

rex6666 · « **Reply #15 on:** August 07, 2007, 05:51:29 AM »

yeah i think that tension spring is probably the prob. , the only way i see to adjust it is with
a hammer or maby pliers, i put the rod in and left it so maby it will be ok

Ironwood · « **Reply #16 on:** August 07, 2007, 08:04:31 AM »

Rex I had rather that tension spring be a little tight than too loose. Being tight will keep the ramrod in place. If it's too loose the ramrod will slip out when you hold the rifle muzzle down.

forest2 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 09, 2007, 11:11:15 PM »

there's a thing on the end of the barrel called a hook. It fit's into a metal thing screwed into the stock called the hook receiver. The groove in the hook is too shallow for the receiver.
If you look closely at the receiver when you drop the barrel, you will see the movement or the extra pressure "there" before the wedge key fits properly. File the hook depth slowly until the wedge key fits properly. If you don't, then the barrel is being forced into position causing misalignment.
The hooked breech barrel should "drop-in" with-out the wedge key pushing the barrel into the stock.
Also, check the length of the rail. The rail should not contact the stock endcap.

rex6666 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 13, 2007, 08:05:22 AM »

the hook may be the reason for having to squeeze it so had to get the pin in.
the rail is fine like about 1/8in hitting. i will ck the hook should have a mark on it. if it
is hitting.

roundball · « **Reply #19 on:** August 13, 2007, 08:42:42 AM »

Quote from: rex6666 on August 13, 2007, 08:05:22 AM

the hook may be the reason for having to squeeze it so had to get the pin in.
the rail is fine like about 1/8in hitting. i will ck the hook should have a mark on it. if it
is hitting.

Be careful you don't force it and split the stock

rex6666 · « **Reply #20 on:** August 15, 2007, 04:53:38 AM »

thanks for the tips guys.
i checked every thing yo suggested.
put it back together, stood it in the corner muzzle down, that was over a week ago
Last nite i looked at it, pulled on the pin, it came out like it should.
looked it over, when i put it back together, it just fell in almost as easy as the old barrel
pin went in with some severe THUMB pressure.
don't know what happened other than stock conformed to barrel or vice-versus,
or maybe i just wasn't holding my mouth right before.
Any way every thing looks good now, will make it pop Sat. about 7am. laying up in bed
late this Sat.