TUNG OIL STOCK FINNISH?

[m-g Willy]

i took the stock off my 92 Rossi  (black) and stripped it down.
WOW!! The wood under that black stain Rossi uses looks like walnut.
I thought I wood strip it down and have some kind of light wood like birch !
(Why would anyone stain a nice piece of wood like this almost black?)
Well back to my question,  Is tung oil a good finnish for rifle stocks?
I was reading on the can that it is for interiour use.
But I heard that it was used on military guns.
Sooooo, what's the deal on tung oil for gun stocks?
 

Willy

[gunnut69]

Tung oil is a natural varnish material and has been used for finish work for many years. I prefer TruOil which is a commercial product using linseed oil as a base. Tung oil dries a bit too hard(my opinion) and is apt to craze more so than TruOil. Pure linseed oil is not a good finish either as it almost never completely dries.. The prepared materials have driers added to make the finish harden. Polyurethane is another common finish material and it's the only one that's truly water proof. It tends to sit on top the wood and not penetrate. If the finish is dinged and is penetrated moisture will get under the poly and it will release from the wood and peel. TruOil penetrates fair(use a thinned coat first and second time) and dries fairly quickly(usually get 1 or 2 coats a day) but still resists cracking and crazing.. All oil finishes don't do well in outside weather unless protected by wax. Any wax containing carnuba will work fine. Avoid car waxes and any with silicone! A search here should find the method I prefer. It's simple and easily repaired to fix the unavoidable little dings and still will protect the wood as well as allow it's beauty to show thru. Good luck and if you've questions, just ask. Be glad to help!

[iiranger]

The modern, plastic finishes are only several decades old. Before that, as indicated, linseed oil was one option and not a great one. Finish stayed tacky, never dried completely, but did fill the wood pores and resist moisture entering. Tung oil was an imported, nut from Southeast Asia got squeezed if I recall correctly and I may not, and it did dry a bit better and resist moisture a bit better but it cost more... As said, driers (chemicals) can be added... IN the lumber yard world of today, the plastic finishes are going to be PUSHED, 'cause they are a bit stouter at resisting what finishes are supposed to resist. And the "oil" finishes are going to be saved for the "old style" products kept around INSIDE to enjoy. Real wood furniture, etc. So you have to make a "call." Your $$$. Do you want an old style finish? A more modern "old style" finish like Tru oil? Or the multi layered plastic finish? The old style takes some work to rub in. Today's plastics can be sprayed on in a coat or three. luck.

[m-g Willy]

Went with the tru-oil finnish
Wish I  could post pics.!
Looks great and was one of the easiest finnishes to do.
Thanks for the info guys.

Willy

[gunnut69]

Be sure to wax that finish to provide the final protection that wood deserves. Don't use any wax with silicone or any cleaner waxes. I use either JohnsonsPaste wax(Floor wax??) or a wax designed for marble..

[m-g Willy]

Thanks!

Willy

[blhof]

I discovered Truoil several years ago, when refinishing pistol grips.  The stuff is as good as all the testimonials on their site.  It's easy to work with and produces amazing results, when used as directed.