Author Topic: New to forum, Have bullet modifying question  (Read 1473 times)

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Offline 308

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New to forum, Have bullet modifying question
« on: June 20, 2003, 05:57:37 AM »
I'm a caster with no swaging experience but there have been lots of times when it would be handy to be able to bump a cast bullet up several thousandths of an inch or to swage a hp in a already cast bullet.

 I have a strong( as far as reloading pressed are concerned) reloading press, the redding big one I can't remember the correct name just now but it has the 1 1/2 inch threads with the bushing threaded for 7/8 dies.

 Alloy in question would be staight wheel weight and maybe a little added tin. Calibers would be 38,44 and 45.

 What equipment would I need for hollow pointing cast pistol bullets and maybe increasing the size of as cast pistol bullets as well?

 What kind of cost would said equipment run?

 Where could I get said equipment?

 Thank you for any help you can give me: Joey S aka 308

Offline PaulS

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« Reply #1 on: June 20, 2003, 09:44:25 AM »
308,
Swaging any alloy other than pure lead requires a press with roller bearings at the pivot points. Even using the best reloading presses they quickly wear out when swaging bullets.
I did this on my old Rock Chucker press and ended up building new pieces for it with hardened pins and Torrington bearings at all the pivots. It works ok for lead bullets now but the ram is beginning to show some wear and I have to build one from stainless and bush the frame to keep wear down to a minimum.
If you have to learn the lesson on your own, give it a try but if you want to do it right get a good press - which you can also use to reload with.

PaulS
PaulS

Hodgdon, Lyman, Speer, Sierra, Hornady = reliable resources
so and so's pages on the internet = not reliable resources
Alway check loads you find on the internet against manuals.
NEVER exceed maximum listed loads.

Offline talon

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« Reply #2 on: June 20, 2003, 02:59:19 PM »
PaulS gave you "the short answer". It is right on. Not many folks realize that there is a WHOLE lot of difference between Pure lead and wheelweights. Casters know there's a difference, but it's much more than they suspect, mainly because very few use pure lead. For every smiggen more of tin or antimony you add, the much greater pressure is needed to get it to flow.  Wheelweight 'lead' will destroy  Corbin's 'M' series dies, linotype will do the same to 'S' dies. Only the 1.5"diameter 'H' series dies can handle BN hardness over 9, and then only on the smaller calibers. You can make solid copper bullets with those dies. Now to the long answer: THE ONLY disadvantage to swaging is the initial cost to get into it, and the high cost of replacing broken tooling if you  take a chance and exceed such recommendations  as Paul just made. Go to www.corbins.com  and/ or  www. rceco.com  for details as to available items, prices, techniques, and so forth. There are NO better reference materials anywhere. However, I doubt you will get a specific answer to your question concerning 'bumping up a few thousandths, and adding a HP to an existing cast WW bullet'. That answer only comes from understanding the principals behind swaging, and the availability of the proper tooling. I don't believe that this immediate subject has been discust in over 30 years of writtings in the swaging field, but is hinted at from time to time. That's why the short answer saves you lots of time (and grief). I think it's been resolved that to get perfect WW swaged bullets, go the S-Press (or Wallnut Hill press) and LSWC die set route. Those items, and a core mold for 1 caliber will run about $550... additional calibers will add about $250 each to that price tag. If you want 2 or more nose designs for each of your 3 calibers, that will be another $150. That's the bad news. The good news is that those 3 die sets will replicate just about every mold made by every mold maker in those calibers. For just under a $1000 you have not only duplicated 40 or 50 existing molds, but can make bullets that it would take another  2 or 300 molds to replicate. The question is, do you need that capability? (Of Course!!!!!) 8)

Offline 308

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« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2003, 01:43:36 AM »
I like getting straight factual answers! I can appreciate the need for quality equipment (here meaning heavy duty swaging press and the stronger bigger dies). I have too often been burned by trying to save a dollar when in the long run it would have cost less to buy the best the first time.

 I applaud both you gentlemen for answering my questions. I appreciate it very much.
 At this time though, due to the facts I have from you and the limited budget to work with, will just get another mold. But I must confess I am intrigued by this swaging stuff and will give it further study.

 Thanks again: Joey S aka 308

Offline bullet maker

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C&H dies
« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2003, 05:24:09 AM »
Hello 308 :D
  Go to (tell me about C&H) discussion on this forum. As a matter of fact read every entery on this forum on bullet swaging. A lot of you answer`s can be answered here. A person on a limited budget can use their stuff C&H just fine. I did and then you can save up for the Richard (Rce) and Corbin`s stuff later, but for right now, check out the forums I mentioned.
bullet maker :D
I like to make bullets, handload, shooting of all types, hunting, fishing, taking pictures, reading, grandchildren, 4 wheeling, eating out often.

Offline pjh421

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« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2003, 01:23:25 PM »
You'd better start with H dies.  S dies are not cheap and you could easily destroy one with the pressure generated by a swage press.  Dave Corbin recommends pure lead for good reasons.

Paul

Offline Lead pot

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« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2003, 06:02:03 PM »
HI All.

Unless I understood wrong the 1" S die will handle alloy up to BHN-10 up to .35 caliber and BHN-7 or 8 up to .45 caliber.unless my memory is fuzzy,that is what he told me when I ordered his equipment a few years back.
BHN-10 is about 1 part tin 20 parts lead.Wheelweights are  arround BHN-9 acording my alloy tester.
I cast most of my bullets at 1/30,I lube them first so you dont distored the lube grooves,then run them through the swage press to bump them up or make a perfect bore rider out of them with the ogive design or HP I want for hunting or a good match grade bullet.
Now I made up my mind and got some good Steve Brooks and Paul Jones moulds and dont have to run them through the Swage press to get the good uniform bullet I'm looking for.When you get a over the counter mould and want to get a good bullet you almost have to go this route.
The problem you have with she swage  is not getting a good lube groove for black powder,smokeless you can get by with the equipment availablem unless you paper patch or use a lube cookey.
 Lp.
Dont go were the path leads,go were there is no path and leave a trail.

Offline talon

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« Reply #7 on: June 25, 2003, 04:47:35 AM »
Lead Pot, what you say is true, except for the wheelweights being a given standard of hardness. Most are 8. The problem is that we melt down a whole bunch at a time and sometimes the mix ends up somewhere between 7 to 10... maybe 11. It really pays for swagers to have a hardness tester as the ones made to test bullets are a lot less expensive than a die. Also, I think bumping up wheelweight cast bullets of unknown hardness will give, at best, minimal results at high risk of die breakage.  This is because there's no hard and fast  rule as to where a die will break or a punch will colapse. Take the Corbin 'S' series, for instance: for the same final bullet caliber, there is the LSWC, the CSW, CS, and PF. Each will break at a different range of hardness ratings because each is of different wall thickness. For 'bumping up' a caster would use a bullet cast at, say, .357 (+/- .001-.0005 because of the BHN-volume differential), and probably lubersized to .3565 so that it would fit the bore of the LSWC or PF  'S' series die. If the BNH was such that this bullet didn't fully conform to the swage die cavity before pressure exceeded the die's limit not only will the die break (or punch colapse), but the bullet will be uneven. When you bump up, the expansion of the bullet starts at one or both ends and works towards the middle. Unfortunately, hand presses don't have pressure gauges, so you really don't know where you are on the pressure curve to go that one 'push' more to iron out that bullet's mid section to full die diameter. If you KNOW you have pure lead, or 1:30 mix, or BNH of 8 or less, no problem: the bullet will fill out before the die is ruined ( remember, once it is filled out, unless it is a LSWC die, a tiny bit more pressure will probably also result in a broken die). I make lots of lead wire on a CSP-2H press. Believe me, there is quite a problem in getting the system to make .018"d wire if the 'lead's' BHN is over 5.2. At 5.1 the wire comes out at 'a mile a minute'. At 5.3 the press stalls out. And that is at 2,000# ram pressure! I can make .218"d wire quite easily with the mix that stalls out at .018". Knowing this prevents me from taking chances with unknown lead mixes in presses without pressure readouts. I'll give it a try,but really pay attention as to how the manual press's handle feels and how the bullets look when then come out of the die. At least, on the first 2 or 3. This is even after using a bullet hardness tester, as I don't fully trust any of them ( they are better than nothing thou).  8)

Offline Lead pot

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« Reply #8 on: June 25, 2003, 07:41:20 AM »
talon.
where do you get your supply of tin? before I retired from plumbing our local plumbing supply house used to stock bar tin,but it is getting hard to find now.
Talon I dont use WW to often unless my tin supply runs out then I will throw 3 ingots in a 40 lb pot of lead so my mould fills good.It does ok with that.
I never broke a die even the small 7/8 C&H or the Herters dies but they were used in heavy O type presses and the 9 ton Herter and the C&H swageomatic but I broke a few punches mainly because the core was to long and I pushed the ram down with the core outside the die body,but never broke the die,but then I dont swage WW and very seldom anything heaver then 1-30, but I have.
Lp.
Dont go were the path leads,go were there is no path and leave a trail.

Offline talon

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« Reply #9 on: June 25, 2003, 10:50:12 AM »
LP, About 15 years ago my brother, who worked in a shop that resoldered parts, gave me two 120# buckets of slag from the work: I guestimate it is 50%lead-50%tin as that was the supply they used for the job. Melted it down and put it up in lyman ingots. I use one of those blocks and 9 blocks of wheelweights to aproximate Lyman#2 casting metal. I haven't done any casting for about 3 years. Only swage now. Get (got) my wheelweights and lead from a scrap yard @.11/# for WW and .25/# for almost pure lead (pipe, roof jacks, sink liners and so forth). With postage rates being the way they are you HAVE to get your supplies locally.  Now, when I melt down any 'almost pure' lead, I cut away any soldiered joints before it goes in the furnace, as just a bit of tin and or antimony will harden lead far beyond what one would even guess. Even then I get some lots that don't go thru my smaller wire making dies. I have broken one bullet die (.452 Core form) in 7 years (I'm a fast learner at $100/pop), and several punches (for the same reason you cite).  By the way, CH and other like dies don't break: they stretch. If they were hardened, they'd break. CH puts in big print on their swaging die instructions: " USE SOFT LEAD ONLY". And they tend to stretch in a barrel shape making it slightly hard to eject bullets. For all practical purposes this stretching isn't significant, but can be measured with a good mic. But, if you continue to swage WWs with them it gets difficult ejecting. At that point you auction them off on eBay, unless you like to sleep nights, then you just set them asside and use some of their parts if you need to. 8)

Offline Lead pot

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« Reply #10 on: June 25, 2003, 12:41:30 PM »
Fine business talon.

Well sounds to me like you feel about your hobby like i do you dont cut your corners to short,you do what you feel is right.
I would sleep good at night if it would not be for my pains,and I still have all my old stuff except the things I give away,I cant sell the things that are junk eather.
I cast about as much as I swag boath have there place in the things I shoot. TNX. agn. talon
Lp.
Dont go were the path leads,go were there is no path and leave a trail.

Offline pjh421

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« Reply #11 on: June 25, 2003, 02:09:45 PM »
Hi Guys,

I gave kind of a short, directive answer and in reading it over, it seems a bit arrogant.

Here’s the deal.  I just divorced a woman who sucked the financial life out of me for 17 years.  There is so much I have wanted to do over the years that I was prevented from doing due to a lack of funds.  Bullet swaging has been an interest of mine since the middle 1980’s.  By that stage of my life, I was (financially) on my back with her knee on my neck.  I finally scraped together enough for a Series II press, a RBTO4-6S s-die set, some floating punch holders, a magnum core cutter, 40 pounds of lead wire, 2000 J4 jackets and some chemicals.

I treasure this stuff.  Had the money I spent on it not gone to Corbin, it would have gone to the Home Shopping Channel, Lane Bryant clothing to hang on unused exercise equipment, various restaurants and God knows what other crap.  But it would have been gone.  If they’re interested, my grandkids will be using this equipment some day.  This stuff represents me getting a small bit of personal benefit and thanks for working my a** off for the better part of my adult life.  For all the money that chick spent she has essentially nothing to show for it now.

This brings me back to my answer.  From my perspective, I can’t imagine abusing a swage die.  Maybe you guys have plenty of cash to experiment and re-invent the wheel (…hey, Corbin WAS right after all…) and if you do that’s cool.  Knock yourself out.  But I remember reading how the “barrel effect” in a swage die ruins bullets.

It works like this: Once the core seat die walls yield to pressure and become larger in diameter than the mouth, a “resizing” occurs upon ejection.  The fatter middle section of the jacket with seated core must be squeezed down during ejection from the die.  The lead core is essentially “dead soft” and the jacket is somewhat “live”.  When the jacket “springs back” it separates slightly from the core.

Now, this happens to a very slight degree with all unbonded core/jacket combinations but in the case of the barrel-shaped core seat, the degree of separation is an un-engineered feature and can be so great that the core is allowed to slip around inside the finished bullet.  This will allow for a variable center of gravity within the bullet and is probably not a desirable design feature.  The only fix is a new die.

To conclude, when people start talking about bumping up slugs of unknown hardness (WW varies widely in BHN value) in something as marginally strong as an S die I feel like I should speak up.  It’s just out of concern for preserving your equipment, not because I think I know everything.  Lots of people who are trying things out don’t understand the risks involved.  I’m often one of them.  If I can keep someone from having to replace an expensive die by advising they start with the appropriate equipment, I’ll do it.  In this case, use an h die.

Sincerely,

Paul

Offline talon

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« Reply #12 on: June 25, 2003, 04:29:58 PM »
Paul, we were speaking about CH, and similar reloading press dies that would 'barrel'. CH can replace those on special order for not to much money as you don't need all new component parts. Too, Corbin 'H' series dies require a much more expensive press. For some who read this, I think we swagers know that 'S' dies can quite satisfactorally handle  wheelweight metal up to 8.5 Bhn in calibers up to .458, even using copper jackets with a .035" wall. It's the "mystery metal" that sometimes passes itself off as wheelweights that has to be watched for ( for instance, mixing any old scrap bullets made of linotype into your wheelweight metal is a real killer, as the Bhn can rapidly go up to 12 or 15 in a 10 or 20 pound pot). 308's question has been answered:  He does not want to spend $1000 to do the task as it SHOULD be done, and  he now knows WW bullets are not safe to bump up in anything less expensive... and do a good job. ( see his 21 Jun item)8)

Offline pjh421

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« Reply #13 on: June 26, 2003, 11:31:29 AM »
Great!

Now I have a question.  I've never used any hardness testing equipment.  Do you get the same reading from a sample the size of an ingot as you would with a sample the size of a cast bullet?

Paul

Offline talon

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« Reply #14 on: June 26, 2003, 12:57:35 PM »
I use an LBT Bullet Bhn Tester. As long as the ingot surface is flat and the probe can make contact at least 1/4" from the edge, yes, you can get a Bhn reading.  However, the Instructons  say that Ingot hardness and bullets from it will not be the same as it takes the ingot longer to cool down... and that affects Bhn. However, I work with 3/4"diameter, 4"long ingots as a start (making lead wire) so it's their hardness that I'm concerned about. I've never compared the difference between an ingot,and a subsequent 1" piece of it's resulting wire. When the wire squirts out of the wire making die is't hot enough to burn your skin, and I'm sure this, too, would have an effect on the wire hardness. Of course with some types of testers you HAVE to use a bullet  size piece of metal and ingot testing is therefore impossible with those types. 8)