Author Topic: .511 mold frosting  (Read 630 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline largemeplat

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 15
.511 mold frosting
« on: December 28, 2007, 01:05:03 AM »
If my .511 dia 440 grain mold I got from you always frosts the second bullet poured where its closest to the center to the point where the edges are rounded what should I do? If I pour cooler they wrinkle. There isnt much meat between the cavities so it dont matter which is poured last it will come out heavily frosted from the heat of the first

Offline Veral

  • GBO Sponsor
  • Moderator
  • Trade Count: (1)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1675
    • Lead Bullet Technology
Re: .511 mold frosting
« Reply #1 on: December 28, 2007, 07:35:22 PM »
  To start off, understand that, if using wheel weight metal, I won't save bullets that aren't uniformly frosted, and make it quite clear in my literature that I recommend the same to my customers.  If shiny bullets are mandatory to a customer,  especially with heavy large caliber bullets, Linotype will have to be used so casting can be done at lower temperature.
 
  The very thin cross-section between cavities does get much hotter than the thicker portions of the mold, and will always be the first place to begin frosting, but the problem, if one wants to call it that is far less than with iron or steel molds, which under similar conditions cause large sinks in the bullet surfaces.

  So, my recommendation is to get the mold hotter till the bullets frost uniformly and enjoy the precise bullets produced.  If you would like to have you loaded ammo wear shiny bullets, twist the loaded rounds in a wool rag a couple turns and they will shine beautifully, using any reasonably hard alloy.   This will make your loads look better but have no effect on accuracy.
Veral Smith