what to look for from my handloads ?

[Scibaer]

ok, i reloaded my first few rounds. i got the last few items i needed ( thanks Jay ! ) and reloaded a few .243 this evening.
 i had a few snags, but i think i did ok. i got the nod "looks good to me" from my hunting buddy and now i think im ready to fire them.
but, what do i look for from my reloads ? i dont have a chrony, and im not interested in groups just yet, i just want to know about pressure signs, or to low of powder, things like that..
i used winchester brass, cci primers with 38 grains of H4198 pushing a 75gr. v-max, no crimp and a c.o.a.l. of 2.63in. i basically matched a factory winchester round, but with less powder.
 so, if that sounds ok to you all, what should i be looking for after the shot ?
glenn

[drdougrx]

Hey Glen

I'd look for flat primers, though some bolt faces will make primers look that way.  I'd also look for some accuracy.  Velocity is impossible to tell without a chrony.  Have fun.

[Savage]

Scibaer,
If you're going to fire the gun, it might as well be an aimed shot. Carry a few factory rounds with you to use for a control lot. Shoot at 50yds or so. Your loads should impact within a few inches of the factory load.  Then check for hard bolt lift or sticky extraction, (You didn't specify an action type).  Assuming your loads chamber normally, pay attention to how hard it is to eject the spent case. That will tell you a lot about your pressure. Hard to extract = excessive pressure. Check the fired case, if it's smoked up, your pressure is too low to expand the case, sealing the chamber.
And this goes for everyone! If the shot sounds odd, or different in anyway, STOP, and check the bore before your next shot!!
I hope you got your load data from a reliable source! 4198 may not be the best choice for your cartridge, and 38grs may be an overload! I looked for quite a while before finding any load data for .243 using that powder. The closest bullet weight I could find was the 80gr Speer. Even the Hodgins/IMR web site didn't have any loads using the 4198. I found a load on the "Loader's Nest" that uses 32 grs of 4198 under an 80gr Remmington. I'll paste in the data here. BE CAREFUL! I don't trust load data that doesn't come from a reliable source, and I do not regard "Loader's Nest" to necessarily be reliable.
Load 7439 in caliber .243 Winchester. FIO.

LoadID 7439
Bullet Remington SP
BulletWeight 80 grs
Powder IMR 4198
PowderWeight 32 grs
Primer Remington 9 1/2
Brass Make Remington
Barrel Length 22 (inches)
C.O.L 2.64 (inches)
Velocity 3035 fps
Group (inches by 3 shot at 100 yds)
Submitted Date 4/4/2003 1:31:00 PM
Submitted By 
Gun Info   
Comment 
   
Energy 1633 ft-lbs 
TKO 8.43 
OGW 268 lbs 
IPSC PF  242.8

Savage

[Scibaer]

Savage,
 i read your post, then read it again more carefully. after doing so, pulled my handloads apart and dumped the charge.
i'm convinced i screwed up and decided not to shoot the rounds i made.
i'm going to look for different load data using the H4198, i have 75 and 80 gr. bullets. but it looks like the 4198 may be to rapid for the .243
thanks, i could have made a bad mistake here. if nothing else i'll go buy some Varget.
the rifle i am reloading for is a handi, break open action. and i will fire some factory stuff as a control.
thanks again and i'll repost when i think i have it right ( this time )
glenn

[jhalcott]

  H380,Varget and H4895 will work in the 243 with 70 and 80 grain bullets.  WW760, IMR 4350 and 4831 are also very good. I would not consider the Handi as a STRONG action so be very carefull when working up loads. If the primers look flat after going up a few grains or the action feels "sticky"GET SOME TO ONE HELP. This isn't meant to scare you away from an enjoyable hobby. We all had to start some where.Many times I worried about a load only to find it shot great. I always tell new reloaders to get several manuals and read them. THEN start assembling the tools , & after REreading the manuals, you can begin assembling the ammo. It must have taken me 5 minutes to fire MY FIRST reload. That was a 6MM remington. I had HELPED my grand dad for years,starting when I was 7,to reload. BUT THESE were MY reloads! Nobody watching over MY shoulder to see that I was doing it correctly.

[AtlLaw]

pulled my handloads apart and dumped the charge.
i'm convinced i screwed up and decided not to shoot the rounds i made.

Hey Glenn,
Probably a good idea.  Just out of curiosity, where did you find that load?  I checked "Load Data" and Hodgdon and neither had any 243 loads for H4198/75 gr. bullet.
Richard

[Scibaer]

the load data i used,i got from someone here on the forum. all i will say, it must have been my error in reading the given data.
i picked up some Varget today and will use that for my new handloads. i have 25 count 75gr. v-max and 25 count 80gr. fmj's from Hornady to work with. using Hodgdon load data.
glenn

[skb2706]

the load data i used,i got from someone here on the forum.

Never a good idea. Get load data from people whose business it is to test, retest and document appropriate load data (Sierra, Nosler, Speer, Hornady, Accurate Arms, etc). Even with that I tend to stay off the max loads and strive for consistency in every round. The words "it looks good to me" could be applied to a round with no powder in it or a round with too much/wrong powder in it. They would appear the same when finished.
To be honest I never gave my first handloaded rounds a second thought.

[Graybeard]

Scibaer let me give you a few words to live with as a reloder not words to die or be maimed by.

First read the entire thread started by ButlerFord45 about the Definitive New Loader or some such subject it should be pinned near the top of the Reloading Forum.

Next NEVER EVER take reloading data from the internet or any other souce except from a company putting out loading manuals. Bullet makers and powder makers are the primary source of tested bullet data. Any and all others should be suspect. Most bullet and powder makers do have at least some data on line you can access if you do not have their manual. Use it but verify it.

In fact VERIFY all loading data before you use it. Do not take just one source no matter the source as gospel verify the safety of it by checking it against a second source.

Don't start at the max load listed. Until you have more experience begin at the starting load and slowly work up.

Get a chrono and use it. When you reach the max velocity the loading source did assume you are at the max pressure they got as well even if you are several grains below the max listed charge. Go no further.

Forget any and all advice you have or will read about traditional pressure indicators you can go by to tell if your load is too hot. It's ALL BS and is only gonna get you hurt one day. The ONLY reliable and safe way to know what your pressures are is with pressure testing equipment. If you don't have it don't make assumptions just follow safe pressure tested load data and use a chrono and stop when you reach their max velocity or their max powder charge.

Don't assume you can switch components and still have the same pressures the loading data source had. If they don't specific bullet brand type and weight use the data with great caution. If they do use that identical bullet or don't assume that data works with it. The same goes for primers and case headstamps.

Deviate from the above at your own risk and don't come crying here if you ignore it and blow yourself up and lose fingers or eyes you were warned. Reloading is as safe as you make it or as dangerous as you make it. You and ONLY YOU are the one thing standing between you and being blind or losing your fingers, hands or even your life. Make sure of every step you take. Check double check and then check one more time just to be sure.

[Scibaer]

Bill,
 thank you for that advice. i have been asking questions, reading and trying to get a good understanding before i ever squeeze a single round. i dont do much crying, but i do ask questions, and then sort thru the advice given. i made a $100 purchase today, brass, primers, the right powder, hodgdon manual and im going to go from there.
i greatly appreciate your advice and will take it in the manner for which it was given.   i will use start data very carefully, from the hodgdon manual and stick to quality data.
again, thanks for keeping me on the right path.
glenn

[Savage]

Scibaer,
I think you made a wise choice! I haven't loaded for the .243 in 20yrs, but the powder I used with most success was the IMR 4895. I loaded the 100 and 105 gr bullets exclusively, as the .243 is marginal for deer size game even with the heavier bullets. There are other powders available now that do as well or better than 4895. There is a lot of good load data available from the powder and bullet manufacturer's web sites and manuals. Enjoy reloading for and shooting your .243.
Savage

[stimpylu32]

Glenn

This can't be said enough , Never , Never take anyones load data at face value , even the loads that i sent you for the 45/70 , those can all be found on the Hodgdons and Alliant web sites as well as in more than one manual ,so double check ALL DATA to make sure it is good , people are prone to type-os from time to time . 

stimpy

[Scibaer]

yes, lesson learned ( i'm happy say, not the hard way ) i will use reliable, manufacturer load data.
i am using winchester brass and primers, hornady bullets and hodgdon powders ( with hodgdon load data ) and cross check that with thier website info.
and im going to load to the starting load levels. 
i took two hours tonite and read thru setting up the sizing and decapping die, sized the necks, cleaned the cases ( by hand, no tumbler ) and pressed in the primers.
most fun i've had in a long time !, but i went slow and double checked every move i made.
i fired one round,with out powder or bullet to see if i had the primers right, so far so good.
glenn

Stimpy, i will for sure,double check the data you gave me against the  hodgdon site info and with my manual. yep, a typo can happen, but ulitmately its all on my shoulders for whatever i do, load or anything else, and i found out that i had made i mis-step no more needs to be said there.
thanks again for the cast's, when i get them loaded i'll let you know..
glenn

[Bluegunner]

A suggestion for what it's worth!!!  When I'm looking at a new powder or starting to work up a new load for a new bullet, the first thing that I do is call the powder manufacturer and/or the bullet manufacturer and talk with their tech people.  They have always without exception been extremely courteous, helpful and knowledgeable.   Ex.  I recently called Hodgdon's  and asked what powder would be best for my 25-06.  The tech recommended H1000 which was a powder that I had no knowledge about.  He explained that the 25-06 has a large case capacity behind a small opening and that H1000 had the ideal burn rate to give the maximum thrust to the bullet.  I used H1000 and I'm very pleased with the results.  I also researched and talked with techs from several bullet companies looking for a bullet that I could use in my 22-250 to take hogs.  Barnes recommended their TripleShock solid copper 53gr. bullet and last spring I dropped four hogs from 160# - 320# with the load.  All were boars, shoulder shoot, and non went more than 20 yards.  Take advantage of the tech service offered by the bullet and powder manufacturers, then know what their talking about!!!!!

[Scibaer]

thanks, i'll keep that in mind, that i can call the manufacturers.
glenn

[Savage]

One other thing, I hate having to stock dozens of powders. I try to find something I can use with multiple calibers and bullet weights. For my rifle applications, I have found the IMR4895 to be that powder. It makes great loads in everything I have tried from the .223 thru the .35s. I do the same with my pistol and shotgun powders. For pistol I have settled on three powders BE/Unique/H110. For shotgun I use Red Dot and Unique. So to summarize, I stock a toltal of five powders to load all my pistol callibers: 9mm/.38/.357/.40/10mm/.44spl/.44mag/.45acp/.45 Colt. In shotgun, I load for the 12 and 20 gauges. I do the same with primers, Winchester for all metalic case, Remington for shotgun. I buy these powders in the 8# kegs when possible and save a few bucks there as well. Ahhhhhhh, life is so much simpler these days!
Savage

[Scibaer]

yeah i started to see the light on that one myself. right now i have winchester primers and varget ( some other stuff too, but thats varget and win. primers is where im going to work my loads from for a while ( for consistancy if nothing else )