Stuck chamber adapter I'VE HAD AN EPIPHANY!!!!!!

[TNyoteboy]

A couple of years ago I entertained the idea of using an Ace chamber adapter to convert a Gibbs Rifle Com. "jungle carbine" (Cut down Ishapore 2A) from 7.62x51 to 7.62x39. I installed the adapter per the instructions by first degreasing the the chamber and insert and applying one drop of loctite (blue, provided) to the insert and inserting an unfired empty unprimed 7.62x39 cartridge case (provided). You then closed the bolt and left it overnight with the idea of the loctite holding the adapter in the chamber until you fired the first round, at which time the adapter would fireform to the chamber and stay. SUPPOSEDLY this was a non-permanent job and easily removed with a broken case adapter. I shot approx. 10 rounds of 7.62x39 and didn't like how they fed from the magazine or chambered so I gave up on the idea. Yesterday I remembered about the adapter and attemped to remove it. Stuck and will not budge! I ruined a broken case remover trying to get it out and it will not move. Any similar experiences out there and if so, how did you fix it? Except for soaking it in Kroil and trying another broken case adapter, any other suggestions?

[Awf Hand]

Is there a way that you could apply heat to the shroud and chill the adapter?  I'm picturing a heatgun and an icicle in my mind, but my mind is a strange place...

[quickdtoo]

I would contact MCA and see what they have to say.

Tim

http://mcace.com/adapters.htm

[gunnut69]

It's possible the thread locker is still holding..even likely. A bit of heat is needed to soften it's hold. I would remove the fore arm to protect the wood. Apply heat in the form of a heat gun or a propane torch to the barrel just ahead of the receiver ring. Apply evenly around the barrel circumference. The steel needs to be heated until just sizzles water. This won't damage the temper but if the finish is painted it can cause problems. An alternative is to heat a 3/8 inch steel rod to a low red heat. This is inserted into the chamber after the bolt is removed. The rod will not pass the shoulder of the insert and if the end is tapered a bit the heat in the rod will transfer to the insert. In any case the loctite must be heated to a couple of hundred degrees to soften. After weakening the bond a stuck case remover can remove the insert. This must be accomplished while the insert is still hot! Clean the empty chamber and burnish with a bit of steel wool on a dowel turned in an electric drill.

[TNyoteboy]

I already scared it with a propane torch but was a little afraid to put too much heat to it. I do have a soldering gun which might be able to heat it up enough, if not , how long do you think it would take for the insert to get hot enough to loosen the loctite, but not hot enough to effect the metal, by using a torch?

Tim, I will contact him and see what he says if he ever answers. Took a while when I first contacted him, and I ended up ordering it from another company who still had some before he answered me.

[quickdtoo]

I think the previous posters have the key, judiciously applied heat!

Tim

[TNyoteboy]

I'll try it when I get home. I had this rifle sold and at the last minute remembered about the insert. Hopefully I can get it out without too much more fuss. Thanks guys.

[quickdtoo]

Once you get it out of there, the residue must be dealt with, Loctite makes a product called Chisel #79040 in 18oz cans that is made for this but contains Methylene chloride, bad stuff, but acetone works too.

Tim

[TNyoteboy]

Got to be careful with that, hopefully acetone won't bother the enamel finish on the rifle is I'm careful enough.

[TNyoteboy]

Guys, I've been going about this all wrong. I've had 7.62x39 on the brain so much that I missed the forest for the trees. I've been using a 7.62x39 shell extractor. The insert allows you to chamber a 7.62x39 cartridge in a 7.62x51 rifle. I'll let you think about it for a minute........................

Ok, now that you have wrapped your head around it I'll explain my mistake. I don't need a 39mm extractor, I need a 51mm extractor, the same size as the insert. I feel so stupid..  Hello Brownell's!!!!!

[gunnut69]

The stuck cartridge extractors I'm familiar with grip the inside of the chamber ahead of the case head web with an expanding arbor type arrangement. Thus the extractor has to be the length of the adapted for cartridge, not the original round the cartridge used.. 39mm would be the correct length.. The enamel finish makes heating more dangerous but it is still possible. An aluminum rod or steel rod larger than the bore, use a 3/8 or so, the heat the rod not the action. A slight taper on the end inserted into the chamber will allow more contact with the adapter and allow faster heat transfer. It needs to get the adapter at least a couple of hundred or a bit more before the stuff will soften.. Insert the rod down into the chamber after removing the bolt and clamping the rifle in a vise(pad the jaws). A propane torch can apply heat to one end and the rod will transfer it to the end in the adapter which should get hot and soften the LocTite.

[TNyoteboy]

Came out easy as you please with a 7.62x51 broken case extractor. Thanks for all of the ideas guys.

[Foggy]

that how the Navy converted M1s back in the 60s when the M14 was king

[TNyoteboy]

The way I understand it they didn't like the way the inserts would occasionally come out with the extracted cartridge. Even this company advised against using in a semi-automatic weapon.