Author Topic: I shoot instictive how bout you? (Read 3761 times)

jgalar · « **Reply #30 on:** February 09, 2009, 03:19:48 AM »

If your bow was set up at a shop they use charts to find the recommended arrow spine. I find in many cases I need to drop 1 or 2 steps in spine to get my arrows to match the bow. Some of my bows shoot well with the recommended setting - I have never had to go with a heavier spine than listed.

Do a search for matching arrow spine to the bow.

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #31 on:** February 14, 2009, 08:35:42 AM »

I always understood shooting instinctive as drawing and releasing the bow quick, No aiming. If you are drawing the bow and holding it while you pick your aim piont you are still aiming just not useing sights.

I met a NA here in Ky that shot what I call instinctive, He would draw his osage bow and release it as soon as he was at full draw. He was an increditable shot and never once took time to aim.

BTW I can't do that, I did however buy a Martin stick yesterday and am gonna start learning how to shoot it, I hope to be good enuff to hunt deer this fall with it. Wish me luck.

gstewart44 · « **Reply #32 on:** February 14, 2009, 03:11:15 PM »

Let us know how your Stickbow goes. My wife got me a Martin Savannah for Fathers Day last year. When I started I was lucky to keep all the arrows on a paper plate at 10 yds. Now I can hit a beer can at 20 yds consistently. It takes practice, practice, practice. I haven't had a chance to take any game yet but I am looking forward to turkey season coming up in a few weeks. 20-25 yds is my usual shotgun distance - this year I will try my bow.

wormbobskey · « **Reply #33 on:** February 19, 2009, 02:12:45 PM »

I've been shooting bows since I was a small kid. I made most of the bows my buddies and I shot in the town we grew up in. I've hunted with compounds for years, but for the last two seasons have only been hunting with my Shakespear reurve. Its 45lbs. and is as smooth as glass. I shoot 3 fingers under the arrow and sight down the arrow while drawing it to anchor. From there I guess its gap shooting, but anything at twenty yards is dead on with no hold over. I practise all through the year at different yardage to get estimates better, but have learned over the years that 20 yards is my limit and I try to stay in that comfort zone.

kernman · « **Reply #34 on:** February 21, 2009, 12:39:27 AM »

Streak,

the bow is a 40-pound, take-down, made by "Crossfire, by AIM" (it reads on the limb).
I paid $125 for it, new, out the door.

Arrows are Carbon Flash 65/80 by Beeman. I use 100-grain field points to practice. Flethings are plastic (or rubber).

I shoot 3 fingers, under, with a leather glove (or is it tab? What's the difference?).

I like the advice about "lightly resting in the V between the thumb and the index finger with the rest of the fingers lightly curled around the bow." I will keep that in mind.

Like I said, I think the main problem is I'm not shooting much right now because of the cold. Im out of practice

jgalar · « **Reply #35 on:** February 21, 2009, 03:57:09 AM »

Lose the plastic fletching if you are shooting off the shelf. Plastic fletching doesn't give and will kick the rear of the arrow as it passes the shelf. I shoot feather fletching on everything.

squirrellluck · « **Reply #36 on:** February 21, 2009, 10:31:51 AM »

He's right about the fletching I believe the plastic is designed for shoot through rest. If you are shooting off the shelf the plastic vanes may be causing more kick than the arrow can compensate for. If you watch an arrow fired from a recurve you can see it flex from side to side as it travels until the fletching stabalizes it. Shooting plastic off a shelf is sorta like shooting underspined arrows in my opinion

scout4 · « **Reply #37 on:** February 21, 2009, 12:28:27 PM »

With my new recurve bow I'm shooting 5/16" cedar arrow with sharp helical 5 1/2" feather fletches. Shooting from about 18 paces, I use english draw, index finger over nock an two under, pull the string back to a good full draw an solid anchor, I don't aim down the arrow don't even look at it, really don't think out the shot. I focus on that tiny spot in the target and release. Works pretty good for me! I tell ya this that arrow its spine, an feather fletching is big time for accuracy. scout4<><

kernman · « **Reply #38 on:** February 22, 2009, 02:03:31 AM »

I forgot to say I am not shooting off the shelf. Archery shop guy installed a little plastic rest about 1 inch above the shelf.

So does that mean my setup is correct?

scout4 · « **Reply #39 on:** February 22, 2009, 02:33:12 AM »

I've never trusted the little stick on arrow rest to stay on the bow, the most reliable rest is the arrow shelf with some type of pad to keep things quite. I think also getting the arrow closer to your bow hand makes for better instinctive shooting. scout4<><

deernhog · « **Reply #40 on:** February 22, 2009, 03:04:27 PM »

Shooting with feathers the shelf is ok, but if you are using plastic vanes you have to go with an arrow rest. My American Cheetah has a thru the riser screw rest that is reliable and I shoot plastic and feathers on it. Both of my stickbows have the shelf mole skinned and I only shoot feathers or fish arrows on them.

AtlLaw · « **Reply #41 on:** February 22, 2009, 06:20:25 PM »

Quote from: scout4 on February 21, 2009, 12:28:27 PM

I use english draw, index finger over nock an two under, pull the string back to a good full draw an solid anchor, I don't aim down the arrow don't even look at it, really don't think out the shot. I focus on that tiny spot in the target and release.

Heck I been shooting that way since I was a kid! Never thought about sighting until I started shooting a compound 20 odd years ago. Never knew it was called an "English" draw though... $:-\$

kernman · « **Reply #42 on:** February 23, 2009, 02:15:20 AM »

Scout4

I tend to agree that "getting the arrow closer to your bow hand" helps instinctive shooting. That makes sense: my plastic "shelf" sits one inch above the actual shelf. That's a big gap, especially when you add arrow trajectory.

But then again, the brain supposedly compensates for such for factors, and calculates the corrections. Or, theoretically, at least.

In any case, I don't feel handicapped. Maybe someday as I learn more, but for now if feels right.

squirrellluck · « **Reply #43 on:** February 23, 2009, 05:00:37 PM »

Don't know what style it is but I shoot 2 fingers 1 o above the the nock and 1 below.Works for me.

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #44 on:** February 24, 2009, 04:08:56 AM »

I shot my stick bow the other day and had some measure of success but boy howdy do I need to practice.

About the arrow shelf, Mine has a oiece of soft leather on it and up the riser, It caught and ripped the fletching on two of my arrows (feathers) should I replace this our could it be something I am doing? Also I am haveing some trouble keeping the arrows on the rest while aiming any suggestions there? I use three fingers with a glove one above two bellow, I shot componds for years that way before useing a release.

I am all ears for help, I know what I really need is a mentor here locally to shoot with, But alas I haven't found that person yet so you guys are it.

Thanks Bob

squirrellluck · « **Reply #45 on:** February 24, 2009, 04:53:23 PM »

Bob you may be curling you fingers a little after you start your draw. That will cause you string to twist kicking your arrow off the shelf. Also I found when I was shooting compound I held my bow straight vertical I have always canted my recurve and selfbows alittle. Hope this helps. By the way where abouts are you in the states

Rustyinfla · « **Reply #46 on:** February 24, 2009, 05:20:51 PM »

I've been shooting shooting Traditional for 10 or 12 yeard now that I'm all growed up. Did lots of it when I was a kid though. Maybe that should read older, I'll never grow up.

I've placed in two night time matches. We call 'em coon shoots or poacher's shoots depending on the club that puts 'em on. I noticed that for some reason my concentration is better at night, or I block out distractions and shoot better.

Try shooting a foam block target at night and see if it doesn't help your shooting.

Also don't shoot more than two arrows in a relay before you pick them up. I think that helps too.

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #47 on:** February 25, 2009, 03:43:14 AM »

Squirrellluck I am about in the middle of Kentucky just outside Richmond.

I am holding the bow canted, which is strange to do because thats a nono with compounds.

It may be I am curling my fingers, I will have to think about that while shooting next time.

Rusty I hope I never grow up myself.

Anybody who lives near me who wouldn't mind training a Pup some I'd be greatfull.

squirrellluck · « **Reply #48 on:** February 25, 2009, 05:03:12 PM »

Thats a little far for me but I'll help if I can. I'll give you any answers I can. Good luck and just have fun with it.

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #49 on:** February 26, 2009, 10:21:49 AM »

Thanks, You know if you could watch yourself shoot you might could figure some of this out but I can't do that nor walk on water so I guess I'll just keep praticing.

Rustyinfla · « **Reply #50 on:** February 28, 2009, 05:08:31 PM »

I just bought two tapes by a 33 time Champion named Rick Welch. Always trying to improve you know. This guy shoots groups the size of a bottle cap at 25 yards.

One thing he does say that y'all might find useful is to only shoot one arrow at a time.

streak · « **Reply #51 on:** March 01, 2009, 04:13:38 PM »

As "Rustyinfla" mentioned that he had two video`s by Rick Welch, these are excellent video`s for instruction purposes. He also has some excellent hog hunting,deer hunting,and javelina hunting video`s.
I went to see Rick and took his two day archery instruction course, it was well worth the trip and cost.

Yankee1 · « **Reply #52 on:** March 05, 2009, 07:47:00 PM »

Badnews Bob,
When you grasp your string allow it to rest in the crease of the first joint of your fingers. That way you won't roll the string when you draw back and have the arrow fall off the rest. When you release your arrow don't open your fingers. Because you can disturb the position of the string and cause the shot to go astray. Better to just relax your fingers and let the string move forward by itself. If your shooting high wrist with the bow in the V of your hand, then shoot that way all the time. Because if your bow hand gets tired and you let the heel of your hand rest down on the riser this will stress the lower limb more and cause the shot to go high. While standing 20 yards from target ,As you look at the target from behind your bow hold your bow so the target appears to be about 2 1/2"over the arrow. Then relax your hand and see if the arrow strikes the center of the target. If it hits low move closer. If it hits high move a little farther back. Until you know how far from the target you need to be to hit consistently with a 2 1/2" gap over the arrow. Then practice at that distance.
When your shooting stand with your feet about shoulder width apart with your right foot about 4" farther forward than your left foot and you left shoulder to wards the target. I anchor on my right eye tooth. It won't move around like the corner of your mouth might. Try these things and let me know how they work for you and we will talk more.
Yankee1

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #53 on:** March 06, 2009, 03:11:29 PM »

Yankee 1
Thanks for the input, That somethings I can do, I have alot going on right now but as soon as I can I'll try some of your tips and feed you some results. Thanks again.