Questions

[HuecoDoc]

Sorry if I'm asking some questions that may have been answered previously.  I haven't read everything in the database here, and there are no copies of the More Complete Cannoneer available anywhere that I can find.

1-Is it true that a new version of the Cannoneer text will be out later this year (2008)?

2-What are the better alternatives for full-scale projectiles, esp 4.5" projectiles?  I understand cement is abrasive.

3-Is there an easy way to encase cement that is not bore-fouling?  Maybe reusable sabots around a smaller 4" concrete ball?  Even machined steel sabots?

4-I see how hard projectiles can mess up the bore, but will a round steel ball mess it up if it is not coarse?

5-Can large lead projectiles be swaged with a 20-ton press?

6-Are these dumb questions that are more easily answered by putting together a lead-casting setup? Or zinc, or zn/al?

7-Where are the closest knowledgeable or active cannon folks to me, El Paso, TX.  I haven't come across anything from New Mexico, but I think I've seen some pictures from Arizona.  I'd like to lurk or participate in some artillery fire.

[Artilleryman]

I personally prefer using cast zinc or aluminum projectiles depending on the type of gun and the range that I will be shooting at.  As an alternative I know of one crew that uses machined to bore size pipe with a cap welded on one end filled with cement.  The round is a little longer than one caliber, and is greased before it is put into the bore.  One problem that I have observed with the use of this round is such a close fit that it traps air behind it and can be difficult to ram.  This problem could be solved by not using the grease.

I wouldn't use lead for a projectile in larger bores because they weigh too much.  Some of the wear in smooth bores due to the projectile bouncing in the bore as it is fired.  It is my understanding that the projectile bounces three times in field pieces when it is fired.  This eventually causes a loss in accuracy.  One way to overcome the problem of lost accuracy is to lenghten the sabot causing the projectile to bounce in a different place in the bore.  Another way is to reduce the wear and to increase accuracy is to reduce the windage between the projectile and bore.  Of course if care is not taken doing this you may get a round stuck part way down the bore.

Don't worry about asking questions.  Someone here will either write an answer or direct you to a reference with the answer.

[Double D]

If you vist our Links post  stuck to  the top of the Forum that Tim worked so hard to create you will find a link to George's Round Ball Calculator http://lassengunsmithing.com/html/ShotWeight.htm.

You can use that to learn the weight of some common material used for shot. 

[HuecoDoc]

As an alternative I know of one crew that uses machined to bore size pipe with a cap welded on one end filled with cement. 

I wouldn't use lead for a projectile in larger bores because they weigh too much.  Some of the wear in smooth bores due to the projectile bouncing in the bore as it is fired.  It is my understanding that the projectile bounces three times in field pieces when it is fired. 

That's a surprise about the lead creating problems but it makes sense.  I think I'll try cement inside PVC for economy, and something else for accuracy. Do you cast the aluminum, or machine it, and how many firings do you get out of the different options?  I'm in the (rocky) desert and there's no soft soil here, so I can't imagine things lasting a long time.  If I'm lucky I might find some sand dunes to fire into.

Thanks, by the way.

[Double D]

For casting Aluminum or Zinc you will need a steel mould.  we can find some one to make you one.  Do you ever go to Juarez? 

You probably can find a shop down there to make you a mould.  Then have one of the aluminum smelters cast you up some round aluminum decorative landscaping balls.

If you can't find somebody down there to do the mould we can probably point you to some one in USA.

 

[Artilleryman]

Casting round balls in a steel mold like DD says is the way to go.  Zinc has a lower melting temperature and can be done with a plumber's pot, aluminum requires a foundry furnace.  I was lucky enough to pick up high school shop foundry furnaces cheap or for no cost when the shops around here went "high tech".  Zinc projectiles seem to give better accuracy beyond 100 yards than aluminum.

[HuecoDoc]

I'll look into the Juarez option.  They do a lot of aluminum casting of "yard art" somewhere over there.  What I've seen is very rough, with big surface voids filled with bondo and sanded.

[Double D]

I'll look into the Juarez option.  They do a lot of aluminum casting of "yard art" somewhere over there.  What I've seen is very rough, with big surface voids filled with bondo and sanded.

Man does this bring back memories...it's nostalgia week here since I retire Saturday.  I have cleared a few tons of that aluminum furniture back in the olden days swhen I first started work at Bridge of the Americas--BOTA.

You might find out who is bringing it in and see if they will help you get cast balls.

[HuecoDoc]

Do you ever go to Juarez? 

You probably can find a shop down there to make you a mould.  Then have one of the aluminum smelters cast you up some round aluminum decorative landscaping balls.

I found someone (he does my yard) that knows a Juarez, Mexico aluminum casting shop that makes decorative yard things.  I'm not sure when I'll visit there, but probably pretty fast once I get my cannon.  Does anyone think it would be better to take my own mold there?  If this is doable, I can get extras for a 4.6" bore.  In the process, I will price a couple other sizes if anyone wants.  I have no timeline yet, but can bring a few to El Paso and ship a few from here, just pay shipping.  Maybe I could make some grapeshot from smaller balls.

Black anodized balls would look cool, I think.  Until fired, at least.

[Cat Whisperer]

Having your own mould makes life easier -  you have the choice of doing the work yourself or letting someone else pour the cannon balls.  But it is YOUR mould and you go through the process of getting the RIGHT SIZE only ONCE.

[Double D]

Make sure you get a mould of the right dimensions.   Spend the money for a good one.  What size are looking at by the way?

[HuecoDoc]

I haven't learned enough yet to know a precise size.  It will be a full mtn howitzer, 4.62" bore.  I'm still reading material here.  I see some conflicting info on windage, patching, etc.  It doesn't help that I can't find the Cannoneer book in stock anywhere, and I've done some used book searches.  Some places still list it for sale but don't actually have it. It's out of print.  I have not looked into N-SSA resources yet.

[dominick]

I wouldn't use lead for a projectile in larger bores because they weigh too much.  Some of the wear in smooth bores due to the projectile bouncing in the bore as it is fired.  It is my understanding that the projectile bounces three times in field pieces when it is fired.  This eventually causes a loss in accuracy.  One way to overcome the problem of lost accuracy is to lenghten the sabot causing the projectile to bounce in a different place in the bore.  Another way is to reduce the wear and to increase accuracy is to reduce the windage between the projectile and bore.  Of course if care is not taken doing this you may get a round stuck part way down the bore.

Some of the original Civil War smoothbores have actual dents in the bore due to the bouncing of projectiles. The problem grew worse as the gun was fired.  A few of them have a bore that is funnel shaped where the bore is larger at the muzzle end due to grape shot or canister expanding and wedging in the bore when fired.  I second on the lead in that size gun.  Too heavy..  Dom

[leesecw]

For the question on the cannoneer book, there will be a new version out this year. Go to Matt Switlik's homepage at
http://museumandcollector.com

[leesecw]

OOPs. Hope the link isnt considered commercial. I was just hoping to pass some info along. If its so, my mistake

[Double D]

We have a couple of guys shooting original 24 PDR mortars.  They can best advise you the correct diameter for aluminum ball in your gun.  

The basic rule of thumb for windage was about 1/40.  Divide bore by 40 and multiply by 39.

That the old guns develop divots is no surprise given the number of shot the fired.  War shots at that much more powerful than the target loads we should be firing.