Author Topic: Crimping Jacketed Bullets in Magnum Handgun Loads  (Read 503 times)

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Offline Racer X

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Crimping Jacketed Bullets in Magnum Handgun Loads
« on: April 27, 2008, 02:54:21 PM »
I noticed that alot of factory loaded handgun ammo in 44 mag looks like it does not have a crimp. How much crimp should be applied to magnum jacketed bullet handgun loads? For cast bullets, I use a Redding Profile Crimp die and seat and crimp in separate steps.
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Offline stimpylu32

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Re: Crimping Jacketed Bullets in Magnum Handgun Loads
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2008, 06:57:50 AM »
Racer X

All my big boomers get crimped with a Lee Factory Crimp Die , In most rounds you need only enough crimp to keep the bullet in place during recoil but some loads with H110 and IMR 4227 need a good stout crimp to get a good clean burn and to keep pressures in their proper range .

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Offline gypsyman

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Re: Crimping Jacketed Bullets in Magnum Handgun Loads
« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2008, 03:45:35 AM »
I too use the Redding Profile crimp die's. Found out years ago shooting alot of big revolver in the silhouette game,(.44mag/.445sm, .375sm and .357 with heavy bullets) that was the crimp die that kept my bullets from walking out under heavy recoil. Plus better accuracy than a standard roll crimp.  gypsyman
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Offline LaOtto222

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Re: Crimping Jacketed Bullets in Magnum Handgun Loads
« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2008, 05:52:15 AM »
As Stimpy has stated, the crimp is mostly for recoil reasons, but you will get a more consistent burn with your powder. With some powders like H110 and WW 296, a crimp is pretty much a necessity to get good powder burns. If you have a single shot gun, you can try it with out a crimp, but I think you will find out you get much more even powder burns (small velocity variances) with a crimp, no matter the powder and the slower and/or harder to ignite powders benefiting the most. Good Luck and Good Shooting
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Offline Steve P

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Re: Crimping Jacketed Bullets in Magnum Handgun Loads
« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2008, 09:08:10 AM »
The loads you are looking at could have a Taper crimp as compared to a more visible Roll crimp.  Most of the loads for semi auto handguns use the taper crimp.  Any load used in a revolver should have a crimp.  If you don't, recoil will gradually cause the bullets to work out of the case and you will have problems turning the cylinder.  Some of my friends carry continuously in bear country.  Even if they shoot a couple of shots, they will remove the unfired cases and mark them as being used.  This way the ammo never stays in the gun longer than 5 or 6 shots.  Don't want a 300 grain 44 bullet stopping a cylinder from turning when a bear is headed your way.

I have some of the Lee factory crimp dies, some of the Redding Profile crimp dies and my FA 357 gets a treat by having first a taper crimp then a roll crimp in separate steps.  Takes a little more time, but is also a little more accurate.

You gotta crimp, now choose which method suites you best.

Steve  :)
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Offline SHOOTALL

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Re: Crimping Jacketed Bullets in Magnum Handgun Loads
« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2008, 09:33:59 AM »
I use the Redding profile crimp and seat the bullet so the crimp is to the back of the grove . This has proved more accurate for me . The profile crimp has more bearing surface than a roll crimp and seems more consistent in my limited experience on jacketed bullets . Hard lead works well this way also but the cheap bullets i seat and crimp at the same time as nothing works that good with them at least for me !
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