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Author Topic: making a true take-down handi  (Read 970 times)

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Offline jsoukup

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making a true take-down handi
« on: May 01, 2008, 04:58:56 PM »
I thought I read something about this before, but now I can't find it. In the Handi faq, it mentions the size of the screw holding the fore end, which is cool, but has anyone found a replacement that's convenient and doesn't require a tool to remove?

I bought a used handi a few weeks ago in 22 hornet ended up taking it apart, and packing it in a duffle bag on a weekend trip to a family funeral. (hey, you never know when a hunting opportunity will occur) Being discreet was key in sparing me the wrath of my wife and making sure I had my gunsmith screwdriver was just a little "extra" I'd like to figure out how to do without.
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Offline quickdtoo

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Re: making a true take-down handi
« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2008, 05:14:18 PM »
See Quick change forend screw in the FAQs.

Tim
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Offline LONGTOM

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Re: making a true take-down handi
« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2008, 05:19:48 PM »
The old H&Rs used to have a snap on forearm. Instead of a screw holding the forearm on there was just a post with a rounded head. The post was a little smaller in diameter just below the rounded part. The forearm had a hole for the post to fit into with I think two pieces of spring steel that the post slid in between that held it in place. I still have one of the old topper shotguns with this feature and an old 223 barrel that was made the same way. There were no tools required to completely take the whole thing apart into three pieces. I wish they still offered them, they were cool.



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Offline LONGTOM

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Re: making a true take-down handi
« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2008, 05:29:41 PM »
Thanks Tim:
That would surely work.
A little on the large side but it is in the right direction.
I still liked the old method better.
I might just try one though.


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"THE TREE OF LIBERTY FROM TIME TO TIME MUST BE REFRESHED WITH THE BLOOD OF PATRIOTS AND TYRANTS".
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That my two young sons may never have to know the horrors of war. 

I will stand for your rights as my forefathers did before me!
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LONGTOM 9-25-07

Offline quickdtoo

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Re: making a true take-down handi
« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2008, 05:39:32 PM »
The Survivor forend knob would work too.

Tim
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Offline jpshaw

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Re: making a true take-down handi
« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2008, 03:53:16 AM »
Actually I've seen many of those "snap on" forearms break.  I had an old 58 Topper 12 gauge that ended up with Duct tape holding the thing on.  I was glad to see the screw come along.  One of whose short phillips screwdrivers wouldn't be that hard to hide in your luggage.
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Offline Sourdough

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Re: making a true take-down handi
« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2008, 04:22:56 AM »
Those snap on forearms become loose over the years and rattle when moved.  Not good when deer hunting.  Screw is not a problem, I always have my Leatherman. 
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Offline Winter Hawk

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Re: making a true take-down handi
« Reply #7 on: May 02, 2008, 11:06:04 AM »
The H&R I bought 1983 had a slotted screw.  The slot was dished so you could use a coin to take it off.  I have thought about taking a dremmel tool to the Philips head screw to cut such a slot.

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Offline Victor3

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Re: making a true take-down handi
« Reply #8 on: May 04, 2008, 12:31:14 AM »
 I replaced my philips-head screws with similar sized slotted ones. The slots are wide enough to accept a penny. Never have had to use a screwdriver since changing them out.
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Offline Stan in SC

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Re: making a true take-down handi
« Reply #9 on: May 04, 2008, 03:27:38 AM »
On the Rossi rifles the take down screw is also the sling swivel.That is very easy to unscrew by hand.

Stan
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Offline shaner

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Re: making a true take-down handi
« Reply #10 on: May 04, 2008, 03:41:33 AM »
stans right , i had 3 of the rossi and the sling swivel is the  forearm screw  but it is farther out on the forearm then the nef, i agee with tim use the survivor  knob or the complete forearm assembly ?  get a synthtic stock the survivor forearm and  there you go???
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Offline needahmr

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Re: making a true take-down handi
« Reply #11 on: May 04, 2008, 08:02:13 AM »
Search McMaster-Carr for part number: 6079K13.  This may require some foreend work to get a good seat for the thumbscrew bolt, since it needs a flat surface on the seat rather than a tapered one.

This is also a good replacement set screw for the Anschutz rail on the Choate varmint foreend.  The wingnut thing they sell the foreend with leaves lots to be desired in terms of comfort and low profile.
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