Contender trigger job questions

[444eee]

I'm doing a trigger job on my Contender, made 1993, for pistol silhouette shooting.  When the striker is engaged with the trigger sear (the little flat area on the very end of the topmost part of the trigger), the striker only goes barely past the very tip of the sear even when I have the trigger engagement screw turned completely out and with the trigger touching the top of the trigger housing.  It only takes ¾ of a full turn of the engagement screw from where the screw first touches the trigger housing to trip the striker. I only rounded the edge of the striker to take the knife edge off per Bellm’s instructions and only honed and polished the sear enough to get it smooth.  Could the striker pin hole or its pin be worn?  There is a lot of side to side play in the striker but very little up and down.  The striker will move until it touches its spring both left and right. How much play should the striker have from side to side?  Could the striker have been made too short or the trigger be defective somewhere?  When the striker is engaged with the sear and I push up hard on the base of the striker and down on the sear they won’t engage any further.  I have done nothing to the trigger spring, and the trigger does return fully when released. There is only the tiniest side to side play in the trigger when pushed from side to side.  I bought the frame used, but the seller claimed the frame was used very little.  Should I order another striker, striker pin or trigger from T/C?  Thanks for any replies. 

[WayneS]

  after you close the action on a bbl. will it stay cocked ?

  can you guess at what pull it takes to make the hammer fall {pistol fire }

Talk to some of the silhouette shooters at the range you plan to shoot matches

[Graybeard]

You followed instructions from a fool so got a fool's job on your trigger. Now what you really need to do is return it to TC and get replacement parts for those you have now ruined following bad instructions.

You NEVER EVER round a sear or trigger in doing an action job. NEVER EVER. In fact you really do not want to remove metal at all if it is avoidable. The ONLY thing you should ever do to a trigger/sear interface is polish with a super fine stone or crocus cloth that will not remove metal. Attempting to alter the angles or surface engagement unless you are a trained gunsmith is a fool's errant.

In order to bring the old Contender actions down to a smooth light two pounds which is the minimum allowed in competition requires only a spring replacement and a wee bit of adjustment of the screw. I have removed all the moving parts and honed them using crocus cloth and then lubed all surfaces that have moving parts in contact with each other with graphite grease. That's the full extent of what I'd ever do to an older Contender action. More is neither needed or desireable. If folks would quit listening to the self proclaimed TC Expert who is merely a former drip under pressure then a lot fewer TCs would be ruined each year.

I have no doubt this thread will wind up resulting in at least two or three people being banned from this site. Most likely that many who are not now registered will also join just to get banned. So be it that's no problem I'm happy to oblige.