Barrel fitting question

[mickey223]

Just got a nice 223 barrel in from LongTom (A++) and the barrel fits, but will not latch.  The question is, which should I try 1)taking a bit out of the under lug picot pin area or 2) hone the latch engagement.

Thanks

[quickdtoo]

That can be found in the barrel fitting info in the FAQs and Help sticky. 

Tim

[mickey223]

Yep, read that already.

But the part that says "If it barely engages, hone the latch shelf on the barrel with a stone to remove some metal and smooth the surface, check it again, continue until you get good engagement, but not too much, if you use up the travel of the latch, the barrel will be loose."

makes me wonder if doing the underlug would be better.

[Spanky]

If the barrel closes tightly against the breach face with no gap then you need to work on the latch shelf.

Put it up to a light when closed and see if there is a gap at the top between the barrel and breach face.
If there is... You need to work on the underlug.

Be warned though...   It only takes a tiny bit of metal removed to go from a good fit to a loose fit.
GO SLOWLY and check often until you get it right.

If you don't feel comfortable...  Take it to a smith to have it done right.



Spanky

[quickdtoo]

Yep, read that already.

But the part that says "If it barely engages, hone the latch shelf on the barrel with a stone to remove some metal and smooth the surface, check it again, continue until you get good engagement, but not too much, if you use up the travel of the latch, the barrel will be loose."

makes me wonder if doing the underlug would be better.

The instructions also says right at the beginning "Check the gap at the top of the barrel, if the gap is bigger there than closer to the middle, you'll need to remove metal from the pivot on the underlug. Before removing any metal from the pivot, use a flat mill file to make sure the barrel face at the chamber is flat, you'll see metal being removed on the high spots as bright while the low spots remain blue. A little degreasing and touch up blue will restore the finish after you make sure its nice and flat."

As Spanky said, check the gap at the barrel to standing breech first, but you have one step before that in making sure the barrel face is flat, that alone may be all that's needed to get good lockup as long as a sized round is slightly recessed before you file. Changing the latch engagement is the LAST thing to do. If there's no gap at the barrel to breech and you change the pivot, you just made the barrel fit lose and it will need to be shimmed, and then the latch engagement checked.

Tim

[mickey223]

Thanks everyone.

Got it done, did just a little smoothing on the underlug witha diamond file, and then brought the latch done and locks up solid and tight.

[AtlLaw]

Before removing any metal from the pivot, use a flat mill file to make sure the barrel face at the chamber is flat, you'll see metal being removed on the high spots as bright while the low spots remain blue. A little degreasing and touch up blue will restore the finish after you make sure its nice and flat."

Hey Tim, sorry I'm late on this but I'm still trying to get caught up on my reading from opening weekend of deer season!   

In my opinion, from what I've learned here and fooling with my friend's infamous .308, I think this is one of the most vital factors in getting the most accuracy out of a Handi!  Since said friend has given me permission to refit his barrel to his frame rather then send it to Remington, I will have even MORE data!  That thing has a serious high point on the left side of the barrel face that kicks the whole assembly to the right at every shot!     It took me forever to figure it out, about the time you suggested I send it to NEF and then they were bought by Remington...    So I never sent it...   From what I've heard so far, I'd rather refit it myself anyway.     'sides, it was made in '95... 

[quickdtoo]

It's definitely an important step, as long as the chamber isn't already too shallow, it's a good place to start. I've had several second hand barrels I fitted just by doing this only, it's a lot more precise and easier than cutting the underlug pivot deeper.  It also reduces excess headspace, something that a lot of Handi barrels seem to come with as an added bonus!! A fella may even be able to fit it entirely that way, then rent a reamer and deepen it just a little by hand!!

Tim

[trotterlg]

I have done quite a few stub projects and have never found a Handi barrel that was straight and square at the breach.  If you can square it up in a lathe that would be the proper way to get it right, but filing will sure get rid of the high spots which they all have.  To end up with a shallow chamber on a Handi would be quite a trick, every one I have seen is cut real deep.  Larry