The Woes with my Contender frame and Black powder !!!Help

[Tommyt]

 I have a couple of Questions and Ideas about Cleaning my  Contender frame when using Black Powder
I'm thinking /Hoping there may be a Spray I can use to Coat my Frame and trigger Area to eliminate the Tearing down of the working parts after each Trip to the Range or Field

 Is there something I can do to stop the back-flo (if that's what its called) of the burned powder residue from getting in the working parts of my Frame ?.? Sounds like a lot of work, This year I was planning on using it and my Bow  through out the season
 
  The use of Black powder with my Contender is a first for me and in reading my Gonic arms book about the loads and use it clearly states How to disassemble the Contender and States to do this each and every time its used
 If you know of a better way or any tips please walk me along
Tom
 I have a pound of  Pryodex RS

[halfslow]

It took a few minutes for the panic attack to subside after reading your post.
I have been shooting a 209x50 cal barrel on my G-2 since January with Pyrodex RS.
I have not done a black powder cleaning of the frame in all that time.
I immediately took the barrel and stock off and can see no residue on the mechanism including looking down into the hinge pin area.
I will now remove the recoil plate and clean under it.

In the past, I have wiped a little residue off the recoil plate and cleaned that with Hoppes.

That said, I would clean the Contender like I clean any other BP firearm:  Hot soapy water and rinse with hot water, blow dry with compressed air and lube with a spray silicone oil.
Of course, the barrel is cleaned seperately after removal from the frame.

[Tommyt]

You may be on too something 

blow dry with compressed air

I will say this I think your fortunate my CRS is saying I've read more times than not about the contender not firing after some use with Black Powder
I'm wondering if the G2 is ? ? ? some able to do it without much attention paid to the Frame itself ? ?

Thanks and safe straight shooting
Tom

[halfslow]

I suspect my luck has been fortified by the design of the breech plug.
The plug takes a 209 primer and is about 2 1/2 inches long. 
The 209 is not tight in the hole.
The flash hole in the front or powder end is smaller than a #60 drill bit.
I suppose the gas leakage through the plug back around the 209 primer is minimal in mine.
I normally shoot a 495 ball with a patch over 50 to 60 gr Pyrodex RS.
Not a heavy load by any means, but this is supposed to be fun.
I used up a box of 100 balls by June or so and haven't cast any to replace, so no shooting it until I do.
I probably would have noticed any corrosion as I also shoot a 22 LR and 30 carbine barrel on this frame from time to time.
Maybe I should run out and buy a lottery ticket?

[Tommyt]

I think I also read where it Clogs your Firing Pin
  I am not saying this stuff to worry you  but this is why I posted
My initial post

[rickyp]

what I do is use some break clean and spray the inside of the frame extremal well, I normally get some black cleaner then it will run clear shortly. the break clean will dry fast then whipe it all down with a light coat of oil.

[halfslow]

It took a while to find a right angle screwdriver which would fit between the hammer and firing pins to remove the recoil plate.  I really did not want to disassemble the mechanism to get the hammer out of the way.
There was only a little black goop around the plate.
None under it.
No rust or corrosion anywhere or on the pins and springs.
So, I washed it all off and re-oiled  and reassembled.
BTW, I regularly wipe the breech face off with Hoppes on a patch and then place a drop of Hoppes on the breech face so it runs into the firing pin holes.  That may have prevented and problems.  I did look into the frame after shooting Pyrodex, but never saw any fouling on the shiney parts inside.  Maybe the severity of the leakage problem is specific to each barrel.
Thanks for posting the question in the first place.
I learned something new.