Free-float question

[NM Shooter]

Can anyone explain to me why you would place something between the free-floated forearm and the barrel? I finally got mine to not have any contact between the two, and then I read that you should put something in the gap at the end of the forearm. I'm confused! 

[quickdtoo]

It's called a pressure point, lots of rifles shoot better with them,  more often than not in my experience it helps on H&Rs and it's a lot easier than free floating to find out if it works, along with the forend screw being tightened the same each time.

Tim

[cwlongshot]

Check the FAQ's there is some links with pics and explanations there.

 Generally the forend is where the "action" is.  Making adjustments there will most effect how consistently your handi shoots. That is why when a poster asks about accuracy problems, one of the first things we ask and suggest is removing the forend and shooting followed by, how where are you resting that forarm.  Rest as close to the "hinge" as possible and remove the forend to "test".
 Relieving any errant pressure points along the forend is a good place to start. It can be done with a 1" dowel and sand paper or the excellent barrel bedding tools available on line form GBO sponsors.
 A simple "O" ring slid over the barrel stud before the forend is attached will also do this. I have found better results with neoprene washers on that same stud.
 Another something to look at is just how "tite" is that forend to the frame. I find that a bit less pressure is better than too much. I relieve it with a judicious filing of the forend bolt hole. but go slow as you do NOT NEED TO REMOVE MUCH.
 Finally as Tim already mentioned, that forend screw. It should be consistently tightened as all things gun related for accuracy, CONSISTANCY is key. Use of a torque wrench may proove most accurate. (Pun intended.  )

 I hope this and the FAQ's help. let us know.

CW

[Guy Pike]

NM Shooter: We have here a rifle of a break open action type. The construction of the action has its limits. The rifle is also built to a price point which limits how much will be done at the factory. Unfortunately the price point is beginning  to intrude into bolt action territory where there are some pretty accurate if not fancy rifles being produced. If one is lucky, The H&R/NEF rifle shoots fairly well as purchased. And this happens fairly regularly. When it doesn't guys like the gang here at GBO start experimenting. They try accepted modifications that apply to the Handi's from all the different rifle styles and then invent their own when nothing seems to work . The result being a compendium of freely shared info and tips. This is as it should be. Now to your question. After free floating the barrel by whatever means if the desired result is not achieved a pressure point can be added. This pressure point can be adjusted both up and down the barrel and for thickness. Free floating the barrel eliminates any random pressure points created in the manufacture and allows one to control the size and location as he sees fit. All very good stuff. In the past when the cost of the rifle was a true bargain this gave the tinkerer a hobby and the perfectionist a goal which cost very little but their time. In this current environment it is getting more difficult to justify the effort unless one takes pleasure in the achievement. I for one, do. Thanks to all the great folks on these forums for sharing a wealth of information and promoting a spirit of fellowship not often seen these days by people who have never met! Guy

[NM Shooter]

Thanks for the replies. I have another follow-up question. My forearm is completely free from contact with the barrel. (A business card will slide between the forearm and barrel for the entire length.) When I tighten the forearn screw, the forearm will still move around a bit and has some "jiggle" to the back where the forearm spacer touches the receiver. Is that normal? If not, what can I do to minimize/eliminate this?

BTW, I'm all for tinkering...to a point... then I move on.  I have not reached that point yet with this rifle.

[quickdtoo]

Lots of forend help can be found in the FAQs, a wood forend can be tightened with a shim between the spacer and forend itself.

Tim

[cwlongshot]

Lots of forend help can be found in the FAQs, a wood forend can be tightened with a shim between the spacer and forend itself.

Tim

 Tim's right, as usual!!  I have one like this as well... I made up a couple shims from my steel shim stock, before I got the perfect thickness. Its made to the same shape as the wood/spacer and removes all excess slop. Now the forend just so!! You could use about anything from paper to card stock. I just like the finality of the steel shim stock.

CW

[JustShootin]

Happy New Year

What is the torque spec number people are using?
Thanks
Grant

[quickdtoo]

24 in/lbs which just happens to be the spec for Burris ring screws too. 

Tim   

[JustShootin]

Thanks Tim
While were talking torque I have a Wheeler Fat Wrench that the adaptor keeps falling off. I called Wheeler yesterday and they said the first ones were without the magnet. They are sending one out at no charge. A little piece of info should someone have the same.
Grant

[quickdtoo]

Yeah, I have one of em, I just put a piece of plastic bag on it before I put the adapter on, then it doesn't fall off. 

Tim