Author Topic: crisco in barrel  (Read 1179 times)

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Offline emcgarrah

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crisco in barrel
« on: February 03, 2009, 10:49:52 AM »
good day to all. i've been around for a while but this is my first post. i'm getting a new traditions trapper deluxe pistol and i would like to know if it would be ok to put a nickel barrel in my oven then season with crisco. thanks to all

Offline wgr

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Re: crisco in barrel
« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2009, 05:03:08 PM »
why worry about seasoning it at all. its steel  not iron. and you will most likely clean it with hot soapy water and that will take the barrel back to bare metal. not to be a smart ass but steel does not season like the old iron did. just my dimes worth
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Offline Cowpox

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Re: crisco in barrel
« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2009, 05:09:33 PM »
I would advise against seasoning.  Medium-high heat over an extended period is how you draw temper.

I have had good luck with olive or castor oil in the bores and chambers of my black powder guns.
I rode with him,---------I got no complaints. ---------Cowpox

Offline emcgarrah

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Re: crisco in barrel
« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2009, 05:33:46 PM »
i didn't think so but in the "proper use of cap and ball revolver" #5 it said something about it so i thought i would ask.  i'll have more questions later but thanks for now

Offline Gatofeo

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Re: crisco in barrel
« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2009, 12:26:17 PM »
From my post about the proper use of a cap and ball revolver:

While the parts are still warm, cover well with olive oil, lard, tallow, Crisco or any commercially made black powder lubricant. Vegetable or animal-based oils are best for black powder, as they keep fouling down. These warm parts will soak up these natural oils quickly. Don't be afraid to reapply. These will season the metal and prevent fouling from sticking so readily.
I saturate a clean patch with tallow or Crisco and push it down the bore. A hot barrel will soak up a lot of this natural grease but that's good.


Since I wrote that, I've learned that some commercial lard may contain salt. Or so I've been told. So watch the label if you buy lard.

I use "season" as somethiing of a loose term, but a term that everyone can relate to.
My own cast iron skillets are seasoned and rarely encounter water in their cleaning. I scrape them clean with a small spatula. If food stubbornly sticks to the pan, a bit of water and brief, vigorous scrubbing with a scratch pad removes it.
But this is noting compared to the soaking in hot, soapy water that my cap and ball revolvers get when I clean them.
All trace of "seasoning" is removed by such prolonged exposure to soap and water.
However, I still advise to heat the metal to warm and liberally apply Crisco, olive oil, lard or tallow (again, provided any of them are salt-free).
After a thorough coat, the parts are allowed to cool. The gun is then reassembled.
Steel and iron are absorbent. They will absorb grease and oil over time. After your revolver is cleaned and coated with natural oil or grease, the lubricant will continue to soak into the steel.
The next time you fire the gun, that absorbed oil or grease will help to keep fouling low.
Based on what I've experienced with my own black powder rifle and revolvers, I don't see the harm in "seasoning" your barrel in the oven.
However, you'll note that I counsel to use a very low heat, certainly not more than 200 degrees F and preferably 150 or lower. Leave the oven door open to ensure all moisture is driven out and to keep the oven temperature low.
When warm, apply the natural grease or oil to the bore and exterior surfaces. Allow to cool. Reassemble.
At the range, fire a couple of percussion caps before loading. This will dry the chamber area. But much of the bore will still bear traces of lubricant, which will help keep fouling soft or adhering to the metal.
I learned to leave a coal of natural oil or grease in the bore back in the early 80s, when I purchased a CVA Mountain Rifle in .50 caliber. It helps to reduce fouling and reduces the swabbing I must do to keep the bore clean for loading.
Anyway, that's been my experience with keeping a thin layer of lubricant in the barrel.
Others may disagree and that's their right.
Try it for yourself and let us know if there's a difference.
"A hit with a .22 is better than a miss with a .44."

Offline Will52100

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Re: crisco in barrel
« Reply #5 on: February 14, 2009, 06:30:14 PM »
Just a head's up on heating gun parts, at least the barrel and cylinder of "carbon" steel guns.  Most high carbon steels, like your springs are tempered at 500 deg. F and up.  The barrel and cylinder of all the cap and ball guns I've done any work on, again carbon steel, haven't messed with any stainless ones, are nearly as dead soft as mild steel.  That said I wouldn't go over around 300 deg. just to keep from burning the greas or oil and making asphalt or maybe damaging the blue, more likely keep it down below 250 for ease of handling.  One old time methoud of bluing is a heat blue, and you've got to get into the 500-700 deg. range for that, depending on alloy.  As far as the temper yourOK as long as you don't go over the initial temper.  For example, if it was tempered at 700 deg., a heat of 500 won't hurt a thing, where a temper of 750 would.

Just for comparisons, most carbon steel knives get a temper of 375 F to 450 F, and there around 57 to 58 Rockwell, not sure what the rock well on the barrel and cylinders are, but it's signifigantly lower.

Again I say this for carbon steel guns, the amount of free chrome in stainless changes things, get to hot and if it's got enough chrome and carbon it will air harden.
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