Forming 7-30 Brass

[slick00]

Is there anything to be concerned about forming 7-30 brass from 30-30 brass?  Are there any concerns about brass flowing to/from the web or resulting thick necks or anything like could be a concern? I have erloaded for years but never formed cases -only done normal resizing and loading of existing brass so I'm not sure what to expect.  Can't find any 7-30 brass and I'm considering making brass or buying some from someone who already formed it. Your thoughts and tips are appreciated.

[wncchester]

Use a good case lube and push it in.  Then check case length, trim if necessary.  Load a dummy cartridge and measure the neck diameter, if it's too thick you will need to turn it but most likely it will be fine.

[mangulator]

wncchester is correct but remember you will not need to load up full power loads for the fire forming. Moderate load will work just fine. I love the 7-30 Waters. I have one in a Winchester 94. Wish H&R would bring one out in Handi 

[cwlongshot]

 Advice so far is how I have done it as well.
  Just so you know, your not going to get a 7-30 waters fully formed case just by running it thru a 7-30 die. Its just going to form a half arsed shoulder on the neck of that 30-30 case. Its not going to look like anything, but that is where you need to start. You will now need to fire form those cases to get what you really are after. I did this with some 175Gr 7mm mag pulled bullets. I bought a partial case for a song some years back and pulled all bullets and saved the powder and brass. Bullet weight is not critical as long and the bullet is long enough to be seated and still reach the rifling. You will be seating the bullets to touch the rifling and charge them with a small amount of fast burning powder. Do some reading on this and completely understand before continuing. By seating the bullet to touch the rifling you are crating a zero headspace scenario. That way the case fully and completely forms to your chamber.

CW

[crash87]

You don't say what you will be shooting it in, wether it makes a difference, I don't know. I load and fireform 30-30 brass for a contender and have had problems seating bullets to be tight to the lands and coming out with brass properly formed. I have had brass separate and come out in 2 pieces, also have had it crack at the case head, Bad scenario anyway you look at it. "I Think" what was happening was the hammer fall was strong enough to, or the bullet/case neck tension not snug enough, or both aloowing the bullet to be pushed forward upon fireing. What I did then was simply neck down 30-30 brass in the Waters die to give me a secondary shoulder to provide the proper headspace upon firing, have not had the pevious problems since and case life is as good as anything else I've got. This is not to say that loading your bullets into the lands won't work, as this is a common method, but, if you experience problems try the secondary shouleder method. Just another means to the same end. CRASH87

[slick00]

I'm loading for the Conender and I have decided to use the second shoulder method.  I'm going with seating seting depth about .025 off the lands. Thanks for all the input, I'm down to the basement now to give it try.

[GameHauler]

I formed my first 50 with the C.O.W. method.
They were not fully formed and will jump the powder up a little next time.
But really works well and without the cost of a bullet and less powder.
Mike