I read an article on the internet about a man that worked on a flintlock (I think it was a flintlock). Anyways he described how to smooth out the internal action, I took this information and applied it to my revolver and this is what I came-up with.
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The revolver being worked on here is the 1858 Remington Revolver / Pietta with 7 ½ barrel
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Took down my revolver last night. I took some 320 wet/dry sandpaper to ALL the inside parts, I placed the sandpaper on a flat steel smooth surface and worked on the bearing surfaces of each part. Some of these parts like the hand was purty rugged looking but after the sandpaper trick they were much much smoother, the surfaces that is. I did not sand on the edges, I wanted to keep them sharp. I did sand on the trigger edge that contacts the hammer notches, I just sanded it enough to smooth it out and done it on my flat surface making sure NOT to take off the shoulder edges. I even took the hand screw and shined up the bearing surface on that too. Where the main spring contacts the trigger was VERY rugged. I hit that with a small file about 2 strokes then polished it up with the 320 sandpaper until the surface had an even flat shine to it.
The screw that mounts the hammer to the gun had paint on it and the trigger mount screw did too. I lightly sanded the bearing surfaces on each of these screws until I had an even shine on them both, I did NOT want to remove any material on these screws, I just sanded them enough to get the paint off and put an even shine on them. I rolled a small piece of sandpaper into a very small circle and ran that through the mount hole in the hand and trigger, again I just shined it up and knocked off the rough edges on the inside.
I started on the inside of the gun and just sanded it enough to bring it smooth. I took the main spring and ran it over the file several times and when it got warm I held it in my hand to cool it off, I filed both sides and then finished it off with the 320. I done the same thing to the trigger side of the trigger/bolt spring. I just hit the trigger/bolt spring on the outside and never touched the bolt side of the spring. I sanded them both (main spring & trigger/bolt spring) from the edge, not the flat surface.
I put everything back together and couldnt believe the difference!! Took it down again and reworked the main spring & the trigger side of the other spring again. Put it back together and the main spring was finished. Took out the trigger spring and done it yet again, back together we went yet AGAIN. NOW, I can actually feel when the hammer is about to fall. Ya know, when your about to fire the gun and pull the trigger, I know when that hammer is going to fall now, as I put more and more pressure on it I can actually feel it creeping out of the hammer notch. Ive never shot or owned a revolver that has this distinctive feel to it, the trigger kinda like slides to another small stress point on the hammer notch as if warning you, Im about to fall now, I think I like this gun again
.*L* We have a love / hate relationship
The internal action is really smooth now, when I cock the hammer back I can feel NO resistance and that rugged feeling while cocking it is GONE!!! I cant believe this trigger pull, for the first time shooting any revolver I KNOW when that hammer is going to fall. Without the cylinder installed I checked to make sure that the hammer could not be pushed forward and fall without the trigger being pulled. The sharp shoulders on the hammer notches and the tip top of the trigger were retained for safety sake.
IF you do this, I would advise NOT to file on the trigger shoulders/notches of the hammer. I think this would cause the trigger to let go prematurely, also the tip top OF the trigger that contacts the hammer notches needs to stay square and retain the sharp shoulders. Too much filing OR sandpaper work in these areas will result in a very dangerous gun with the hammer falling just by touching the outside of it. That or it might stay cocked and then just fall with-out touching it. IN other words if your not absolutely sure on what to work on then DONT DO IT, because I cannot and will not be responsible for you because you thought thats what you read to do in this posting. I have NO control over what you do with your own gun.
..*smile*
BTW - Im not a gunsmith and have never done anything like this before. I dont even know if sanding the inside of my gun was the right thing to do, I sanded just enough to smooth it out but, I could NOT find anywhere on how to do this, read that it could BE done but never a post on how to actually do it to this particular make and model of revolver. Have posted on how to set the timing but never have read on HOW to do this, I just know that mine is timed right. Ill find-out how to do this too, eventually
*L*
IT was extremely easy to do and taking it apart and getting it back together and working properly was easy for me. I had no problems in that area and the instructions I posted on the Dissassemby of the 1858 Remi was dead-on right. Alls I know is my gun action is like glass and the trigger pull and feel is outstanding!!
Going back together with it I found out that it is easier to put the hammer mount screw back in without tightening it after mounting the hand. Hold the hammer all the way forward while you mount the rest of the parts and it seems like it went together easier for me doing it this way.
I hope this helps those that own the 1858 --
David L
----------------IF guns are outlawed only outlaws will have guns
