With the cost of gas checks and all other loading components being so high and most likely going higher, I've decided to write a bit about useing plainbase successfully, and at the same time am making all my readers an offer of deeply discounted plainbase bullet molds for a limited period of time. -- Maybe my real reason is somewhat of a guilt feeling because I have probably pushed gas checked bullet advantages harder than any other person on earth, for nearly 30 years. However, if I have any guilt, it is only 'somewhat of a guilt feeling'! I have told the complete truth about the superiority of gas checked bullets, but with costs where they are now, I'm going to show you the 'other side of the coin' and try to make it affordable for you to try a top quality plain base mold if the idea appeals to you.
The 'deal' I'm offering is 25 percent off on new molds, cut to your specs. I'll keep the offer open for at least a month, possibly longer, depending on how tired I get of making molds at slave wages! See the mold sale post near this one, and email me for the list. I'll have more details on the list.
The real advantages of gas checks are when one wants full power from magnum revolvers, or the maximum power possible from rifles, and especially if the bores arent' perfect. However, if you have lapped your gun, and or don't need or want full power there is a lot of money to be saved with plainbase bullets. A savings of 6 cents per shot is quite normal and much more with selected loads, when smaller quantities of faster burning powder are used. Yet performance can be completely adaquate for most handgun uses. If you have followed my writings through the years you'll notice that I started LBT pushing for power, as I thought it was necessary when I did my original bullet design work, so my LBT bullet designs are potentially the most powerful on earth. Yet, after a few years of customer feed back and personal experiance, I began recommending big game hunting loads which are way below full magnum revolver power. These loads can be every bit as good with plainbase as with gas checks, if the gun they are used in has been lapped.
To realize maximum savings with plainbase bullets, powder quantity needs to be reduced so that the savings isn't just the gas checks. To reduce powder quantity and keep velicities up to a good kill speed, bullet weight must be kept in the mid weight range for both revolvers and rifles, so high sustained pressure isn't required to get the bullets speed up. For example, in 44 caliber, a 250 to 260 gr bullet is probably optimum, pushed out by powders in the burning rate range of Unique, Herco etc. The best powder I've used for this type loads is Hodgen Universal, which I love because it burns so clean and because for reasons I don't understand the report is milder, and muzzle flash less, than with any other powder I've used. It works very well in any rifle cartridge for low velocity plainbase loads, with extremely close shot to shot velocities.
I am listing on the mold sale list what I consider the optimum weights for plainbase use, though much heavier and much lighter can be satisfactory. But I have chosen weights that I know have superb accuracy potential and adaquate weight to give 100% penetration with a good wound size all the way on game up to at least deer size. They are all the WFN profile, which will be more accurate than any other profile in these lighter weights, no matter from the LBT lineup or from any other mold or bullet manufacture. Because they carry the longest bearing length, and strongest barrel grabbing strength of any bullet design in equal weight. -- I'll give you a few clues about what to expect performance wise. I killed 5 deer with a 44 caliber 240 gr WFN started at 1200 fps, three of them at about 100 yards, two at about 70 yards, all instant kills. I killed around 10 deer with a 30 caliber 160 gr WFN started at 1150 fps. The first deer, with an all hard bullet, was penetrated from chest to ham. This large buck bounced around in almost a complete circle and dropped dead, but I didn't like the tiny wound, so the rest were shot with hollow pointed softnosed bullets, which killed as quick as most full power rifle loads, and every bullet exited. All but the first were shot broadside through the chest if at all possible, with a couple of them quartering. You can duplicate that performance in rifles, by using a ductile alloy, preferably 1/20 tin lead. It will NOT expand without help with low impact velocites, but if narrow strips of aluminum foil are placed in the mold so it casts into about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the bullet nose length wise, they will expand on contact, turning the bullet into a 'butterfly' that acts like a chainsaw. I'll write more on this if you are interested. Don't expect to try it with alloys containing more than about 1/2 % antimony or with bullet hardness over about 14 bhn, and whatever alloy you use, for best big game results, push them to the highest velocity at which you can get accuracy. I'm not recommending this type loads for every deer hunter, but only for those with enough esperiance to get close enough for a sure hit in the right spot, and with the understanding that following up on any shot, with carefull tracking are essential to recovering game.
For plainbase rifle bullets velocities can be pushed quite a bit higher than in a handgun, before leading begins, which is the point where accuracy begins to fall off, as loads are incrementally increased during load development. 1500 fps is easy in most 6.5 and larger caliber rifles, with higher velocities being possible in the larger calibers than in smaller. -- Lets consider what is possible with a 30 caliber rifle, in which a 140 gr will probably be optimum weight for most guns. Again in the FN nose form. This bullet started at 1400 fps muzzle velocity, punches a half inch hole through game, and that speed can be obtained with about 10 grains of Universal, if memory serves me right. If that hole is punched in the right spot critters up to at least deer size expire quickly, yet small game down to squirrel and cottontail rabbits can be taken with negligible meat loss. (It will tear grouse up pretty bad.) I'm recommending 140 gr in 30 caliber because it will fit easily into, and shoot accurately in almost any 30 caliber rifle there is.
Communicate with me on weights for other rifle calibers if you decide to order, and I'll make recommendations relitive to the type use you are intending. Keep in mind that lightweight WFN rifle molds are very universal if maximum diameter for the caliber is selected. For example, you will hardly be able to find a 30 caliber rifle that will not handle a 140 gr .314 diameter bullet. A few will require sizing to something a bit smaller, but with the one mold you can load for all your friends and yourself. Deadly loads at slightly more cost than 22 rimfire ammo. (Lets see now. Did I just spell out a hard times survival cast bullet, or what?)
Please pop me any questions about this that come up, because I want you completely comfortable about buying a plainbase mold. If you understand the limitations, you will be happy with performance.
