Author Topic: Re-barrel for a tang safety M77  (Read 1636 times)

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Offline tigerstripes

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Re-barrel for a tang safety M77
« on: January 14, 2009, 03:52:20 AM »
I have a tang safety M77 in 7 mm Rem. Mag.  I had some issues with the ejection that I got fixed, but now I see that 6" groups is about the best I can expect.  I was going to get rid of it, but it has the best looking stock I have ever seen on a rifle and feels good when you shoulder it as well.  I really would like to get another barrel for it and keep it.  Is the action on this long enough for a 7mm Ultra Mag?  I know I would never need this much gun but it is a want not a need.  I am also considering a 270 w mag or a 257 w mag.  Please feel free to add your $.02.
My GOD, My GOD i have so much left to do, who will take care of my darling LSU?   The KINGFISH.

Offline rex6666

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Re: Re-barrel for a tang safety M77
« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2009, 04:02:29 AM »
Personally i can not find a need for a MAG other than a 22mag.
I don't know where you hunt, but i just don't really see a need for the
mags in most cases. Now if it is a case of want then that is good enough
reason.
Rex
GOD GUNS and GUTS MADE AMERICA GREAT

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Offline tigerstripes

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Re: Re-barrel for a tang safety M77
« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2009, 04:12:16 AM »
You know everyone has their own thing some want fast cars, big trucks, or whatever. 
My GOD, My GOD i have so much left to do, who will take care of my darling LSU?   The KINGFISH.

Offline oleman

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Re: Re-barrel for a tang safety M77
« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2009, 10:32:32 AM »
 TS as long as you are asking -- have you tried different types of ammo. My new 7mm gave me some fits ( 3 to 4 inch groups) until I tried Federal 165 gr. Game Kings. Now about 1 to 1.5 inches at 100 yds.

   Oleman
   Baker, La.

Offline gstewart44

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Re: Re-barrel for a tang safety M77
« Reply #4 on: January 14, 2009, 10:41:28 AM »
I have a tang safety M77 in 7 mm Rem. Mag.  I had some issues with the ejection that I got fixed

What ejection problems did you encounter and how did you have it fixed?   I have a tang safety M77 in 30/06 that doesn't want to throw the empties.....
I'm just tryin' to keep everything in balance, Woodrow. You do more work than you got to, so it's my obligation to do less. (Gus McCrae)

Offline tigerstripes

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Re: Re-barrel for a tang safety M77
« Reply #5 on: January 14, 2009, 11:28:18 AM »
mine would not eject/extract unfired rounds I noticed the extractor was bowed quite a bit so I figured I had nothing to lose and bent it back I think it fixed it but if I rebuild this rifle I will replace.  I have tried several different ammo brands different scopes different rest even had someone else shoot it same results.  I got another rifle to hunt with and thought i would "play" with this one.  I really like the look of the rifle.  I just thought if I got a new barrel I would get something a little out there.
My GOD, My GOD i have so much left to do, who will take care of my darling LSU?   The KINGFISH.

Offline Siskiyou

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Re: Re-barrel for a tang safety M77
« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2009, 01:08:17 PM »
I bought a Tang Safety Model 77 in 1978/79; I purchased Federal, Remington, and Winchester brand ammunition in two different bullet weights and headed for the range.  I installed a scope on it ahead of time and bore sighted it. 

The rifle shot large patterns with factory ammunition.  I was getting ready for a hunting trip and this rifle was purchased for the trip.  It stayed home.  I felt like I had been sucker punched.

I was ready to sell it or trade it off, but I hate losing money and was not going lie about the accuracy issue.

I was already setup to load.  I purchased a set of 7MM Remington Magnum RCBS dies, along with some Speer bullets, and magnum primers.  I loaded my empty brass with H4831.  I loaded a number of three round sets varying the powder charge below the maximum recommend charge.

Suddenly I had an accurate rifle.  It does well with the following Speer Bullets, 145, 160, and 175 grain Spitzers.  It is also accurate with the 160 and 175-grain Speer Mag-T bullets.  It will shoot 175-grain Speer, Hornady, and Remington C-L bullets into the same group at 100-yards. 

The one that puzzled me was the 175-grain Remington C-L.  The rifle would not shoot them worth a darn in factory loads, But the empties and reload them with a 175-grain C-L bullet, with Remington Magnum Prime, and a charge of H4831, H870, or AA8700 and I had a great hunting load.

Along the way I had purchased some 150-grain Winchester Western ammunition and had thoughts of using it on antelope.  Last year I made a trip to the range with it, and was once again disappointed in the accuracy of factory ammunition.  My go to ammunition is my reloads.

Conducting the well know shake test I have determined that there is more shake in factory loads.  Interpretation is the slow burning powder I am using is filling the case closer to capacity, resulting in better accuracy.

I have read a number of articles that claim that loading the appropriate powder closer to case capacity normally results in improved accuracy.

If I did not reload I would consider Hornady Light/Heavy Magnum loads or Federal High Energy loads because they come closer to filling the case to capacity then any standard factory load I have tried. (Shake Test)

That red, hard rubber butt plate on the Model 77 is a killer when shooting the 7 magnum from the bench.  In a few rounds the rifle is outside my comfort zone.  It became my favorite rifle to leave at home.

A few years ago I cured that with the installation of a Decelerator recoil pad, Limbsave is also highly recommend.




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Offline stoutstuff

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Re: Re-barrel for a tang safety M77
« Reply #7 on: January 14, 2009, 06:24:27 PM »
I also have an older tang safety 7mm Rem. Ruger that my dad gave to me when I moved to Colorado. A few years ago I had the desire to get a new rifle in maybe one of the new short magnums but couldnt get over the thought of putting it away in my safe after all those hunts we've been on over the last 30+ years. Many elk and deer, including a Boone & Crocket. A friend had worked up some custom loads that would group about 1-1.5" but I needed a change. So...  I ordered a Bell & Carlson thumbhole stock, a Timmney trigger, had the action bedded and free floated the barrel. I can shoot MOA with it when I do my part. It also looks good. The trigger was probably the biggest improvement and have been told that a good gunsmith can probably get the stock trigger good too. Float your barrel, improve your trigger and have the action bedded first (you'll do it sometime, even if you replace your barrel).

Offline SingleShotShorty

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Re: Re-barrel for a tang safety M77
« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2009, 12:57:59 PM »
I would rebarrel it to 7mm Mag, bed the action and float the barrel.
Old Age and Treachery Will Alway's Overcome
Youth and Skill.

Offline drdougrx

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Re: Re-barrel for a tang safety M77
« Reply #9 on: February 11, 2009, 01:27:52 PM »
Hey Tiger.

I have quite a few M77 tang safety rifles.  All have been rebarreled i'm afraid.  I've used Shilen on all except I'm doing a 243 MkII with ER Shaw.  I don't beleive the magazine in long enough for the Ultra Mag...could be wrong. 7mmRem or 7mmWby would fit. Or the other calibers would also bve cool.  Get a timney trigger as well...really helps!

GL!
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Offline Sharps-Nut

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Re: Re-barrel for a tang safety M77
« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2009, 10:42:59 AM »
I know ruger had some barrel issues, or heard complaints.   My first word of advice would be inspect and fit the wood to metal fit.   Most factory inletting leaves alot to be desired if the action is loose in the wood groups will be huge.  I hate to be a second guess person but I would hazard a very educated guess the barrel is on par for factory accuracy of 1"  to 1 1/2" groups.  Glass bedding the action and barrel channel could get you the groups your looking for in one afternoon and 30 bucks.  My smith is nationally known and he has told me time and time again factory barrels are not real good but jacketed bullets are very forgiving and most factory barrels will do fine if properly bedded.   Most rifles don't get bedded until someone decides to spend big bucks and make the gun  a tack driver, then with the new barrel comes the glass bedding and all the glory goes to the new barrel when much of it was made up in the bedding.  Don't get me wrong there are cases that disprove this, and high dollar barrels will grossly outperform factory barrels but if bench rest is not what you are going to use it for  1" groups in a big game hunting rifle will do all that you need.  The fact that is a mag only reinforces the shot loose in the wood case I am pleading.  Second are you comfortable with the recoil level.  A good friend of mine was complaining of the huge groups his 444 marlin was producing, I went with him for a sight in.  After seeing the groups, 8" plus, first hand he  asked what I thought, I said don't know has anyone else ever tried the gun,, blank stare.  I shot a three shot group in the very sub 2" catagory and all doubts of the rifles accuracy were removed.  When he shot his next group I loaded the gun and he shot on shot five no shell and his flinch showed.   You may not flinch but its a question worth asking as my buddy is a big boy and never would have thought he was causing the large groups but guess what he was.  Play with your gun before you piss off big bucks it may suprise you.  Last being a used 7 mag the barrel could be toast, but my guess is you already thought of that.  A good smith can bore scope that rifle and tell you if its to blame.   Long post and nothing insightful but hope it helps.   SN

Offline db22

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Re: Re-barrel for a tang safety M77
« Reply #11 on: April 19, 2009, 06:03:20 AM »
Sharps-Nut: On the contrary, sir, you related quite a few insights that apply to my own situation with a .30-'06 77 Mk 2 that I bought second-hand last year.  I am experiencing the same problem as tigerstripe: disappointing accuracy with any load, factory or tailored handload.  Vertical stringing is the primary symptom, and I know that relates to barrel channel pressure.  I have already been eying Shaw's website for a replacement barrel.

Should I reduce or eliminate the forend contact point?  Most of the comments I have seen in years past say that a relatively light factory barrel should have some contact near the front of the forend.   Free-floating a light barrel is supposed to take the problem from bad to worse.  Is a full glass-bed likely to improve things?

Opinions?

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