Lee Factory Crimping Die 45 Colt

[Bart Solo]

 I have just started reloading 45 colt.  I notice that when I seat the bullet so the overall case length is 1.600 inches the leading edge of the case is in the middle of the upper groove (I know there is a fancy word, but I don't do French spelling very well.)  Everything seems great. Then when I crimp the bullet using the Lee Factory Crimping die the overall case length is shortened by just a little. The bullet is seated just a little deeper in the case. Not enough to create a problem, but I am wondering if I haven't set too much crimp.  According to Lee a light crimp is a 1/2 turn and  a heavy crimp is 1 turn on the adjustment knob.  I used one turn.

What effect is a heavy crimp on a bullet as it is fired.   

UPDATE:  The French word is cannelure.  And in answer to my own question, Lyman's reloading manual says a roll crimp will always shorten the length of a case slightly, which is why you use a taper crimp when crimping a bullet to be used in an automatic pistol in which overall case length is more important.  From what I have read this afternoon heavy crimping is probably unnecessary in a cowboy load, so next time I will do a light crimp. 

[Gohon]

You didn't say what you were shooting them in.  I shoot the 45 Colt from a Marlin which I need a heavy crimp and a H&R which a light crimp is fine.  To make it easier on myself, never knowing which one I'll be shooting I just use a heavy crimp all the time.  Doesn't seem to affect anything.  If I were shooting a revolver only I would probable just use a light crimp as long as it set the flare back in enough for a firm grip. 

[Bart Solo]

I have only been shooting 45 out of my nm Vaqueros but I am picking up my Hartford 1892 Winchester clone tomorrow.   You make a good point.   

[fastbike]

I'm not sure it makes that much difference between the "light" and "heavy" crimps. I'm adjusted to the ~1/2 turn on the FCD and shoot Ruger (i.e. beyond SAA) loads out of a Blackhawk and a Puma 92 without problems.

[Steve P]

I notice that when I seat the bullet so the overall case length is 1.600 inches the leading edge of the case is in the middle of the upper groove (I know there is a fancy word, but I don't do French spelling very well.) 

From what I have read this afternoon heavy crimping is probably unnecessary in a cowboy load, so next time I will do a light crimp. 

You may notice it right away, but your brass can bulge near the case head if you put too much pressure on a crimp into the bullet vs the crimp groove or cannelure.  I seat my bullets so the case mouth is near the top of the cannelure on a jacketed bullet or near the top of the crimping groove on a cast bullet. With the cast bullet, you are moving the case mouth into open space so no pressure is exerted down onto the case.  When crimping the jacketed bullet, the cannelure is usually about .001-.002 deep so you get room to roll the case mouth lightly into the cannelure and do not hit full jacket diameter. 

If the case mouth gets too much resistance when you try to roll it in, the pressure will have to relieve somewhere and that somewhere is usually at the base of you die where the brass doesn't quite go in all the way.  When you try to load your gun, the reload only goes into the cylinder part way.  No small base dies to correct the problem. 

Remember, COL is a reference point.  You are loading your specific brass, bullets, and recipe for your specific gun.  If the bullet has to seat a little deeper so the crimp groove aligns with the case mouth properly, so be it.

Have fun and enjoy your reloading. 

Steve

[Blackhawker]

If you're using cast bullets, I'd suggest just using a roll crimp into the cannelure and not worry about the factory crimp.  A factory crimp, however, might work better on jacketed bullets.  Roll crimping on a hard jacket too much can sometimes cause case crushing and bulging.  I load hard cast bullets exclusively and they're fairly stiff loads.  In my very early days of loading, I loaded some 45 Colts for my Ruger Blackhawk with a generous charge of H-110 and I made the mistake of not crimping enough.  The recoil was such that after three shots I couldn't index my revolver for the fourth shot because bullet number 4 had slipped enough out of the case to jam up against the frame while indexing to the next position.  (We live and learn!)  Fortunately I "lived" though it.  It could have been a bit dangerous I suppose if that second chamber touched off...maybe, maybe not. 

Anyway, the 45 Colt is a moderate to heavy recoiling round depending upon the firearm used and the loads you are loading.  That being the case, if you're not firing them from a single shot rifle where the next round to be fired is not influenced by the recoil of the previously fired round, I'd recommend a good amount of roll crimping.  That's just my thought.  I'm sure others feel differently.  I don't know if there is a real "right" or "wrong" I suppose.  I just know what has worked best for my situation and loading needs for many years.

Good luck, always use caution when loading, and have fun!

[Troyboy]

I agree. I roll crimp mine. I also use lead. I also load for a Ruger V. I also feel no need for the fcd when the roll crimp works.

[BigJakeJ1s]

Yep, seat and roll crimp in one step with my Hornady seating die. 200 gr LRNFP 45 colt for Ruger and Marlin.

Andy

[merkelerk]

I shot a Vaquero at the gun club the other day, the owner of this gun had rolled his own with a light crimp. Every few shots, the cylinder would not advance to the next round. The problem was too light a crimp, the recoil of the gun caused the bullet to creep forward slightly and jamb against the frame as the cylinder rotated.