Author Topic: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head  (Read 645 times)

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Offline Zeak

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223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« on: June 30, 2009, 12:51:55 PM »
I bought some used brass for a 223 and the head is marked with a LC. What make of brass is this,can't come to mind what the LC would stand for?  Zeak

Offline Skunk

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2009, 12:54:34 PM »
Lake City. It's made by a subsidiary of Federal.
Mike

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Offline FourBee

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2009, 01:47:04 PM »
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Skunk ~ Lake City. It's made by a subsidiary of Federal.

right-on!
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Offline Skunk

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2009, 01:54:26 PM »
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Skunk ~ Lake City. It's made by a subsidiary of Federal.

right-on!

I hear it's pretty good brass too.
Mike

"Praise the Lord and Pass the Ammunition" - Frank Loesser

Offline FourBee

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2009, 02:12:10 PM »
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Skunk ~ I hear it's pretty good brass too.

Well; I don't know Skunk.  I have some that was given to me this past winter.  I cleaned it up and have it ready to load.   It's pretty old, and has been reloaded a few times from the looks of it, but still has a few more loadings left.
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Offline JRiddle

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2009, 03:35:55 PM »
Lake City is great brass IMHO.  I've got some that I've reloaded over 10 times.  Annealing every couple of loadings will really lengthen the life.
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Offline FourBee

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2009, 04:53:18 PM »
Never annealed before.  Is it hard to do?
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Offline JRiddle

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #7 on: June 30, 2009, 05:20:21 PM »
Nothing to it, just need a propane torch and and some water.  Everytime you resize your brass it gets harder (less flexible).  Annealing just restores the 'flexibility' to your case mouths and neck, which 99% of the time is where your brass will fail.  When I anneal, I like to do it in the dark, in order to better judge the redness of the brass.  I like to only do about 20 cases at a time, any more I think it's hard to get 'em all hot at the same time, and then get 'em back cool.  I stand the cases up in a 4x5 configuration, close together, but not too tight as to prevent geting even heat around them.  I use a windex spray bottle (no endorsement there) to cool them, the coarser spray works better to cool them quickly that too fine of a mist, like from a plant misting bottle.  Get everything set up, fire up the torch, kill the lights, get the cases hot (only from the mouth to just past the shoulder).  Keep the torch moving to try to keep them all at the same level, you need to be able to move the torch 360 degress around the lot of cases.  Be careful not to have the torch too high, or the flame can blow the cases over (usually one, but then the domino effect occurs).  It wont take long, have the water real handy,  as soon as you get a consistent very dull red glow, move the fire and hit 'em with the spray.  Don't be stingy, spray like you're trying to put out a wildfire, you want to cool them as quickly as possible.  When you're sure they're cool, pick 'em up, sling as much water out of the case as you can and throw on a towel to finish drying then, set up you next batch, and repeat.  I found that doing all of this on a cookie/baking sheet is a good idea, so if you do tumble your cases during firing, or during the quenching, they are still contained on the sheet, not all over the shop floor.  Hope that helps, JR
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Offline FourBee

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2009, 05:30:35 PM »
Thanks JRiddle; I'm goin'ta try that.  May be a little tedious till I get the hang of it.
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Offline Skunk

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #9 on: June 30, 2009, 05:40:23 PM »
Good stuff there JR.

From what I understand, some folks place the brass in a pan with sides high enough that water covers the standing brass up to the shoulder/neck area, then heat the necks, then just tip the brass over into the water to cool. You might have to change the water in pan a few times as it will eventually heat up.
Mike

"Praise the Lord and Pass the Ammunition" - Frank Loesser

Offline JRiddle

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #10 on: June 30, 2009, 05:50:21 PM »
Never tried that, that sounds like something worth trying.  They usually fall over when I spray 'em anyway
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Offline LaOtto222

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #11 on: July 01, 2009, 11:55:48 AM »
I have been using a kit from Hornady to anneal cases with. It comes with 3 different sized spinners, instructions and a bottle of heat sensitive paste. I put the proper sinner in a cordless screw driver that turns at about 200 RPM, Hornady recommends 180 RPM so there is little difference. I have a bucket of water ready and apply the paste to the shoulder of the case (I usually do 50 at a time, my loading block size) and let it dry for a couple of minutes. I then turn it in the spinner over a propane torch flame until the paste melts and then just tip the spinner down in to the water. I have done it enough now to know when the case turns color it is ready, so I do not need the paste any more. It is real easy and I can do 100 cases in less than an hour. Good Shooting and Good Luck
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Offline Lloyd Smale

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #12 on: July 02, 2009, 12:00:35 AM »
lake city match brass is good brass but the regular lake city is nothing to write ma about! Ive found it with loose primer pockets and even flash holes drilled off center. In these days of shortages i take about anything but lc is way down on my list of what i consider good brass
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Offline Graybeard

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Re: 223 Rem brass marked LC on the head
« Reply #13 on: July 02, 2009, 12:17:57 AM »
I have a large quantity of LC92 and a bit less of LC88. Both have proven to be super fine stuff and using both I've turned in lots of .2s and .3s from Remington Varmint rifles for five shots at 100 yards. Regular milsurp .223 with other than LC on the head I generally don't waste much time with trying to work up accuracy loads but use for plinker rounds only.


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