Author Topic: Case trimmer advise (Read 913 times)

Tom Threetoes · « **on:** August 08, 2009, 03:36:01 AM »

I have a 100 new 45 Colt brass that I need to trim. My brother and I have decided to share a new trimmer but don't have a clue which trimmer to buy for pistol length cases. We'd like to be able to go from 40 S&W to 357 max length cases. Any ideas?

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #1 on:** August 08, 2009, 03:41:24 AM »

The lee hand trimer and a battry drill . save a ton and can use drill for other projects . This works for standard cases it won't for making wildcats

LHitchcox · « **Reply #2 on:** August 08, 2009, 04:20:50 AM »

The Lee is a real bargain if you only need to trim a few calibers. Each different caliber requires a pilot and shellholder that come together for about $5. You also buy a cutter and lockstud that is universal for $8-$10.

I like this system better than a lather type system, because it is really fast with a cordless drill. And I don't get cases stuck on the pilot of the trimmer like I do on my Lyman and Pacific trimmers. I just bought the Lee universal collet and drill adapter for about $15. This collet replaces the shell holder with a quick change collet that is faster and easier to use that the standard shellholder which sometimes lets the case slip in the holder.

If you load a lot of calibers, a lather type trimmer might be cheaper in the long run. I have retired my lathe trimmers for the convenience and speed of the Lee.

mechanic · « **Reply #3 on:** August 08, 2009, 05:55:11 AM »

Go with the Lee. Case length is preset for you when you use the right pilot. No need to measure. Simple enough that even I can do it. Buy them a few at a time as you need them. No major "up front" investment. I have a powered trimmer and still use the Lee unless I'm doing hundreds at a time.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #4 on:** August 08, 2009, 05:57:26 AM »

To be honest its the only Lee product that i use .

sk330lc · « **Reply #5 on:** August 08, 2009, 05:59:34 AM »

you will have to special order the 357 Max from lee though..

Hairtrigger · « **Reply #6 on:** August 08, 2009, 06:08:07 AM »

I use a RCBS trimmer and 3way cutting head.
Several steps are saved with the 3way head.
I do not believe cheep is the answer to reloading questions!

cwlongshot · « **Reply #7 on:** August 08, 2009, 06:13:54 AM »

Quote from: SHOOTALL link=topic=179845.msg 1098866996#msg 1098866996 date=1249747046

To be honest its the only Lee product that i use .

LOL, good one!! While It's not the only one I use, it is one of the good things LEE makes.

Also the handy "zip" attachment is pretty neat as well.

I'll also suggest you get the LEE. Its best for small quantities of brass. VERY nice for loading away from a real trimmer. If your looking for a real trimmer, Hornady, Lyman, RCBS and Redding all make nice units. Mine is a Lyman power unit. But I load and make many cases from others so the power keeps my carpal tunnel from returning.

CW

Grumulkin · « **Reply #8 on:** August 08, 2009, 07:51:47 AM »

I doubt there is any reason on God's green earth to trim 45 Colt brass new or otherwise. Straight walled cases don't stretch nearly as much as bottle necked cases and at the pressures the 45 Colt is supposed to operate at you should never need to trim them even to the day the the mouths crack and they need to be discarded.

In addition, straight walled rimless cases, head space on the mouth of the case. If they're trimmed too much, head space will be excessive.

drdougrx · « **Reply #9 on:** August 08, 2009, 08:44:00 AM »

I actually use an RCBS trim die and a 12" bastard file....works pretty quick. I then do the remaining prep with an RCBS trimmate.

1sourdough · « **Reply #10 on:** August 08, 2009, 10:36:24 AM »

I agree that straight walled handgun brass should not need much trimming. I use the Lee tools for most trimming & a Wilson for some rifle cases.

stimpylu32 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 08, 2009, 11:13:46 AM »

Quote from: Grumulkin on August 08, 2009, 07:51:47 AM

I doubt there is any reason on God's green earth to trim 45 Colt brass new or otherwise. Straight walled cases don't stretch nearly as much as bottle necked cases and at the pressures the 45 Colt is supposed to operate at you should never need to trim them even to the day the the mouths crack and they need to be discarded.

In addition, straight walled rimless cases, head space on the mouth of the case. If they're trimmed too much, head space will be excessive.

The world may stop at this point , That might be the only thing that Grumulkin and myself have agreed on in the past year , I shoot tons of strait walled rounds and have NEVER had to trim one .

stimpy

Tom Threetoes · « **Reply #12 on:** August 08, 2009, 02:52:33 PM »

I admit to being a greenie when it comes to reloading pistol brass but doesn't crimping require cases to be close to the same length? If not then I really don't need a trimmer because 357 and 45 Colt are all I reload. Thanks, Tom

Savage · « **Reply #13 on:** August 08, 2009, 02:58:09 PM »

No trimmer needed for those cases Tom. At least in the 45+ yrs I've loaded them I've never trimmed a straight walled pistol case.
Savage

Graybeard · « **Reply #14 on:** August 08, 2009, 04:56:26 PM »

Like Savage I've been doing this around 45 years or so and to date I've NEVER trimmed a straight wall case round. But then I've probably not shot much over a half million rounds and doubt I've ever reloaded the same case many more than 50-75 times so what the heck some day I might need to.

Tom Threetoes · « **Reply #15 on:** August 09, 2009, 02:55:17 AM »

That pretty much settles that. Thanks for the help. Tom

Autorim · « **Reply #16 on:** August 09, 2009, 02:09:50 PM »

If you feel that you have to trim, I think the Forster trimmer is the best. I have found it necessary to trim new cases due to not being square.

yooper77 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 09, 2009, 05:36:07 PM »

I trim all my pistol cases to the same length, which is crucial for proper crimping.

yooper77

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #18 on:** August 10, 2009, 12:11:50 AM »

for the most part i dont tirm brass in handguns either. I just shoot to much to bother with it. But if a guy is looking for the alitimate in accurate loads like yopper said you should trim your brass when new so that all of your brass is the same lenght. It wont grow enough after that initail trimming to warant doing it again though. This advice is for handgun brass for revolvers that a rolled crimp is needed. For a semi auto where your taper crimping it is not nessisary. It also isnt usually nessiary if you sort your brass by headstamp (which i dont) as most brass from the same manufacture even in different lots is close enough to call good.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #19 on:** August 10, 2009, 01:30:55 AM »

trimming depends on if your cases are streaching for one thing . If you shoot low power loads at close targets and use cast bullets then you very well may never need to trim . If however you shoot jacketed bullets at max. or a bit over max. loads and want your group to be more than a pattern at any distance over 25 yards you will find it nessary to both trim to a uniform length and use a good profile crimp. I admit to being a new commer to reloading as i started about 1976 or so. I learned this while shooting a 44 mag. in IHMSA matches .

jhalcott · « **Reply #20 on:** August 10, 2009, 05:25:47 AM »

I used the Lee trimmer with a power drill to trim a thousand cases one weekend. I found that you CAN wear a small hole in the base. This will result in shorter than wanted brass UNLESS you are very care full!

quickdtoo · « **Reply #21 on:** August 10, 2009, 05:47:58 AM »

A new lock stud AND cutter are less than $5, a little dry lube like One Shot on the lock stud will reduce wear on it and the pilot.

Tim

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=0000690110

Autorim · « **Reply #22 on:** August 10, 2009, 04:28:08 PM »

I used to trim pistol brass and would today if I were loading match grade ammunition. I only use new brass. I spot check them for length and to see if the mouth is square with the side of the case. If all appears OK, I chamfer and load.

For top accuracy, I do it all - cut primer pockets to uniform depth, deburr the flash hole, trim all to same length, carefully chamfer and outside deburr---- and all that other stuff. For almost all of my shooting, I just load and shoot. I can't shoot well enough to tell the difference.