Author Topic: help needed, stained white oak with amonium fumes  (Read 1263 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline Cannoneer

  • GBO Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3950
Re: help needed, stained white oak with amonium fumes
« Reply #30 on: August 16, 2009, 06:29:30 PM »
This carriage was fumed with ammonia, then polyurathane finish applied, then sanded on glass till the grain was filled.


MikeR C,

What do you mean by "sanded on glass?"
RIP John. While on vacation July 4th 2013 in northern Wisconsin, he was ATVing with family and pulled ahead of everyone and took off at break-neck speed without a helmet. He lost control.....hit a tree....and the tree won.  He died instantly.

The one thing that you can almost always rely on research leading to, is more research.

Offline MikeR C

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 178
  • Gender: Male
Re: help needed, stained white oak with amonium fumes
« Reply #31 on: August 16, 2009, 07:51:35 PM »
I use 3M photomount spray adhesive and stick down wet or dry sandpaper to a piece of glass. I my case it is a window out of an oven, very thick and probably tempered. The object of this is a flat surface to sand things FLAT. For the poyurathane I wet the sandpaper with lamp oil, 100% parrafin. For metal I use water.

Thx
MikeR C

Offline thelionspaw

  • GBO Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • A Real Regular
  • *****
  • Posts: 856
  • Gender: Male
  • "HALLOWED GROUND" by RRC
Re: help needed, stained white oak with amonium fumes
« Reply #32 on: August 17, 2009, 03:31:31 AM »
My compliments! The process is an interesting extreme. It illustrates dedication.

rc
Protect Freedom of Speech; to identify IDIOTS!

Offline Double D

  • Trade Count: (3)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 12609
  • SAMCC cannon by Brooks-USA
    • South African Miniature Cannon Club
Re: help needed, stained white oak with amonium fumes
« Reply #33 on: August 17, 2009, 04:39:30 AM »
I use the same technique for polish flat sides on guns before blueing. I have a small foot square, 1/4 inch thick piece of plate glass that came out of an a department store window for small parts  and a long piece of marble for big pieces.

Offline thelionspaw

  • GBO Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • A Real Regular
  • *****
  • Posts: 856
  • Gender: Male
  • "HALLOWED GROUND" by RRC
Re: help needed, stained white oak with amonium fumes
« Reply #34 on: August 17, 2009, 06:28:53 AM »
Yes; I know for metal it is SOP but for wood, it boggles the mind. I have done it with metal but not with so much prep' for wood.

rc
Protect Freedom of Speech; to identify IDIOTS!

Offline Cannoneer

  • GBO Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3950
Re: help needed, stained white oak with amonium fumes
« Reply #35 on: August 17, 2009, 06:43:31 AM »
Thanks Mike; I've never heard, or thought of this before, but it sounds like a good idea, I'm going to give it a try.
RIP John. While on vacation July 4th 2013 in northern Wisconsin, he was ATVing with family and pulled ahead of everyone and took off at break-neck speed without a helmet. He lost control.....hit a tree....and the tree won.  He died instantly.

The one thing that you can almost always rely on research leading to, is more research.

Offline MikeR C

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 178
  • Gender: Male
Re: help needed, stained white oak with amonium fumes
« Reply #36 on: August 17, 2009, 02:37:48 PM »
Keep in mind that you need enough finish on the wood before you use a liquid. Once I have a couple coats of poly, then I sand it wet with oil. It makes the finish dead flat (meaning no ripples, orange peel or whatnot), but not glossy. Once it has sit for a couple of days I polish with 0000 steel wool to give it a semi-gloss. I'm still not convinced it is appropriate for a carriage finish, but it is sure pretty :)

Offline Cannoneer

  • GBO Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3950
Re: help needed, stained white oak with amonium fumes
« Reply #37 on: August 17, 2009, 03:24:49 PM »
Keep in mind that you need enough finish on the wood before you use a liquid. Once I have a couple coats of poly, then I sand it wet with oil. It makes the finish dead flat (meaning no ripples, orange peel or whatnot), but not glossy. Once it has sit for a couple of days I polish with 0000 steel wool to give it a semi-gloss. I'm still not convinced it is appropriate for a carriage finish, but it is sure pretty :)

Yes it is! Mike, I was talking  more about using your method (a piece of glass with the sand paper affixed to it) to attain the final surface finish on the wood, (I think it would keep it flat, with all the edges sharp) before putting on a liquid stain, and then a hard finish of some kind. I can see what Richard means, I don't think this would be manageable for a larger piece, or project, but for the miniature carriages that I'm working on now, I think this will work fine.
RIP John. While on vacation July 4th 2013 in northern Wisconsin, he was ATVing with family and pulled ahead of everyone and took off at break-neck speed without a helmet. He lost control.....hit a tree....and the tree won.  He died instantly.

The one thing that you can almost always rely on research leading to, is more research.

Offline Victor3

  • GBO Supporter
  • Trade Count: (22)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4241
Re: help needed, stained white oak with amonium fumes
« Reply #38 on: August 18, 2009, 02:27:47 AM »
"I don't think this would be manageable for a larger piece, or project..."

 You can do something similar with larger items; just use the glass/sandpaper as you would a large sanding block. Won't give as perfectly flat a surface, but still works pretty good. I've done this (using a piece of aluminum tooling plate instead of glass) for refinishing old butcher-block top work benches.
"It is a capital mistake to theorize before one has data. Insensibly, one begins to twist facts to suit theories, instead of theories to suit facts."

Sherlock Holmes