new reloader looking for info

[Illhunter]

I just got an AR i am wanting a list of everything i will need to reload for it have the press and scale and that so everything esle like dies and all and also hava SKS would like to reload for it to so any help there would be appreciated to thanks in advance. i am sure i am going to get alot of info and help and am very thankful for it.

Terry 

[torpedoman]

dies for each caliber
scales, good balance beam magnetic dampened.
press, single stage
i like the lee auto prime system but you can do it in your press.
impact bullet puller (you will screw up)
BOOK , step one read the directions; step2 follow them.
note book for recording your loads. keep good records.
powder trickler
powder throw (or dipper)
check out the www.ammoguide.com site
crs sufferer so i know there must be something i forgot.
that should be a cheap start you can spend more later. most manufactures have a basic start up kit it is cheaper to get a basic set up that way.

[necchi]

Start reading with this link right here,,great info and advise;

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,99824.0.html

[Squib]

yeah, bullet pullers ... real men that are real careful don't need them 

also, GOOD calipers, and they come in a lot of different types (some are actually very specialized, as you become more knowledgable you really need the special types to check the minor details)

the more times you use brass the more tools you need to extend case life and consistency... if you're just tailoring loads for basic function, cost-savings, reduced-recoil and the like and don't plan on making sniper-grade ammo or loading cases 12plus times for high volume shooting you can get by very basic

make sure that if you use really fine powders that you disassemble your powder dispenser as much as feasible and clean it out (mine is mechanical and I disassemble it completely, wash it out with slightly soapy water and airdry)

get a good funnel so you don't waste handfulls of powder, and a storage cabinet to keep it separated, and ziploc bags for draining a powder measure to prevent spills and also to check it as it comes out to look for contaminants--and to make sure you can see it before you pour the excess back in the can-- I almost put some Wincheste 231 in Trail Boss One Time-- would have cost me fifty bucks because I'd never get the 231 sifted out of there

a poster of the joker that says "why so serious"  it helps me

[Savage]

Loading for an AR is a bit different than loading for another action type. You'll need a couple of things that you might not normally need for loading some other commercial calibers. Unless you plan to buy new brass, you'll need a primer pocket swager or crimp remover for crimped primer pockets. I've done a lot of them with a pocket knife, but don't recommend that method unless you like to bleed. The RCBS swage die works for me. Some will disagree, but I load ALL my AR ammo using small base dies. The most important thing for me is that the ammo MUST FUNCTION in any/all ARs I might try them in. The only way I know to insure this is to use small base dies. I also crimp all AR ammo with the Lee Factory Crimp die. I consider that a necessary step as well. As with any bottleneck rifle cartridge you'll need a case trimmer. I use the Lee setup as it is inexpensive as well as fast and easy with a cordless screwdriver for power. Other than the dies I mentioned and the crimp remover, every thing else is pretty standard. Enjoy your AR!
Savage

[Steve P]

You have the press and scale.
So you will need:
Dies and Shell holders for each caliber.  You may need small base dies for the semi autos.
Case lube.  Spray lubes work the best as far as ease.  Imperial sizing die wax is probably the best, but slower.
Lee Ram Prime priming tool and shell holders.  Fastest way to prime lots of cases
Small rifle primers for the .223 and Large rifle primers for the 7.62x39.
Get a universal ball powder so you don't have to trickle.  AA2460 and H414 are each good for both of these calibers.
Powder measure.  Get a good RCBS measure or Lyman #55.  (Don't buy cheap here.)
Brass for each caliber.  Get Commercial brass.  No crimp in primer and will last longer.
Bullets for each.
Set bullet depth by magazine length and chamber length.  Don't need a caliper to do this, just a cleaning rod.

Do it right and even a single stage press can knock out 100+ rounds an hour.

Steve

[Illhunter]

i am sure most of the brass will be factory or bought new so that will help.
ok will look at some of the other stuff.

[Savage]

i am sure most of the brass will be factory or bought new so that will help.
ok will look at some of the other stuff.

Not planning to shoot it much, huh? Last I looked new brass was a bit pricey.  When you start picking up range brass you're going to run into crimped primers. Actually some of the commercial stuff is crimped as well.
Savage

[Illhunter]

no rifle ranges close by so will be no picking up range brass unfortunately so only brass will be what is shot by me but will still look for a crimp remover so will be able to load any i can get.

illhunter

[Squib]

another thing to remember is the speed issue, yeah 2 die operations can be done in an hour if you're not going above 100 rds, but three or four die loading operations gets really tedious with a single stage press (I know because that's what I do) if you're patient and thrifty you'll be alright with a single stage

if not, look/ask around for a good turret

also remember to try to get dies with locknuts, screws or rings that'll keep your die adjustment set when you take them out and switch up your gear

[Illhunter]

as far as the press have a lyman turret press. not sure if that will speed things up but can't hurt.


illhunter

[Squib]

I've got a lee challenger, pain in the rump... like sitting on a tack to load 100rds in an hour if I'm rushing (more like two at a leisurely pace)