Author Topic: Flat sets and trap distance (Read 636 times)

Rob220swift · « **on:** October 10, 2003, 09:03:25 AM »

I've read and used various methods for trap locations on flat sets and am interested in how you fella's position your traps. My first info on this issue came via O'Gorman who felt 12" back and parallel to the backing. On my flat sets I use #3 Bridgers With wire screen for a bigger kill zone, since the set is blended with no step-down to aid in guiding the paw. I set about 8 inches for fox and 12 inches for coyote. What's your method for both fox and coyotes?

trappnman · « **Reply #1 on:** October 10, 2003, 09:11:39 AM »

The only flat sets I make, and I make a lot of them, are walkthrough sets. I guess that the defintion says it all -I want them to walk through the set- I usually use 2 lure holes spread apart about 18 inches. In a walkthrough situation, I crowd the trap fairly tight in the tightest part of the walkway- which would be midway between the two lure holes. This tight point might be only 10-12 inches wide, and the trap is bedded to the outer side of that- with the dog away from the holes with some sort of backing tight to it. Usually a dropping, weed clump, etc.

Mallard · « **Reply #2 on:** October 10, 2003, 09:16:31 AM »

How do you guide the foot for this set T-man? stones? stepping sticks?

Wackyquacker · « **Reply #3 on:** October 10, 2003, 09:56:02 AM »

I don't know what percentage of my sets are flats but by far most of them are. I don't know why, but I don't often think of a walk through and coyotes in the same breath; and I know that walk throughs are very good coyote getters...funny how some things stick and others don't, and I use walk throughs for cats! Anyhow, I set my pan 7.5 inches from lure ( the distance from the tip of my pinky to the tip of my thumb, just messured it for this post). I have some sort of natural type backing, grass clump, catus ear or arm, bleached bone, scat, cow pie what ever is handy. I use subtle guides with one most always tight to the lure side jaw and none near the free jaw. I use a variety of traps from a few 1.75s to #3 bridgers and #4 dbl longs and I set them all the same; it works for me.

I'm in complete agreement with Slim Pederson when it comes to foot placement coyotes smell what's at their feet just like dogs. I can't catch coyotes with the traps back at 12 inches unless I'm using some sort of stepdown. Now if you are of the mind to raise the lure up off the ground you will need to get your trap back a bit.

Rob220swift · « **Reply #4 on:** October 10, 2003, 11:55:31 AM »

Steve: I read your description, but can't seem to get a clear picture of what you do. Is there any way you can diagram it in a post? Is it similar to the walk-thru set that Miranda depicts in his "Competition" books? If I can figure your's out I intend to try a few beginning next week.

trappnman · « **Reply #5 on:** October 13, 2003, 02:43:44 AM »

Here is the finsihed set. I look for dust edges as it makes blending easier. I try to make the set where their is a natural walkthrough guide, but on this set there was not so imported the weed clump. The trap is tight to the clump and the rocks/clods are the guides.

My set evolved from Miranda's basic walkthrough, which he learned from Oden Corr.

Dave Lyons · « **Reply #6 on:** October 13, 2003, 04:45:35 AM »

Tman,

Now is the trap to the left of the clump or to the right of the clump. And if I am reading this right the trap is in the middle of both lure places so the lure places are abot 20" from the trap each?

Dave Lyons

trappnman · « **Reply #7 on:** October 13, 2003, 01:01:47 PM »

Dave- the trap is directly in front of the weed clump. So the weed clump is on one side and the weed line is on the other. The 2-3 clods are around the trap. In this photo, it looks obvious. In my defense, I can say in real life it looked better- and I did catch a yote at this set.