That's a good number!!
What you will find many times is the best you do is to "clean" the trigger. Simply to enhance the break, eliminate or greatly reduce the creep/mushiness of the trigger movement. Lately all I do for the hammer is swipe it with dykem and rub it off with a super hard stone or ceramic. For the trigger, I do polish the front, back and dykem the tip and lightly hit that with that same stone. I am NOT a fan of cutting springs, so I leave them alone. I polish the pins and there corresponding holes very lightly. Basically I am looking for any durrs or irregularities. Reassembling often to check weights. I have gotten 8-9# triggers down to a clean 4-5# with extremely minimal material removal with this method. I cannot say it enough, go slow and check often!! If you have a number of hands and like to tinker with them as Tim, myself and many others here. I will also highly recommend just ordering a couple hammers and triggers to have on hand.
That "ever changing" trigger weight is from cutting/grinding/polishing thru the surface hardening. IMHO its the #1 reason many smiths do not like to do the trigger jobs.
I played around with the trigger on the 32-20 last week and was able to re-harden the parts and it seemed to work. I heated the piece almost "cherry red". And doused it with used motor oil. After that, if you tried to file them the file just slid over the piece, never getting a "bite". I didn't try to actually shoot the gun, but sat in front of the TV with a snap cap and shot all the "bad guys" on a couple old westerns. The trigger stayed exactly the same.
Good luck,
CW