Author Topic: veral's recoil reduction  (Read 1744 times)

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Offline boarshead

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veral's recoil reduction
« on: November 15, 2009, 01:00:00 PM »
First post on greybeard,  I read a post by Veral on his method for porting and recoil reduction but cannot find again, using search feature.

Offline boarshead

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Re: veral's recoil reduction
« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2009, 01:07:13 PM »
Please, excuse my lack of forum skills.  Found it after rewording search.

Offline Terbltim

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Re: veral's recoil reduction
« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2009, 02:01:07 PM »
So where did you find it?
I think I'd like to read that too.
"Stop global whining!"

Offline Veral

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Re: veral's recoil reduction
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2009, 08:04:16 PM »
  I posted that on June 10, 2008
  Go down through the pages and you'll find it.
Veral Smith

Offline Silvertp

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Re: veral's recoil reduction
« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2009, 07:43:55 AM »
Thanks Veral,  Ive been haunting this thread waiting for a link or more info to help find the thread.  Like Terbltim I did a search and didn't find it.

Here's the link:    http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,144885.0.html

Silvertp

Offline Terbltim

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Re: veral's recoil reduction
« Reply #5 on: December 14, 2009, 04:04:56 PM »
Silvertp
Thanks for that link. Very helpful.
Veral,
I think I understand the concept [and why it works] and I'll prob'ly give it a try on a project-gun I took possession of a couple of months ago.
I can already think of at least 4 rifles and 3 handguns I'll do this to if I can work out the details.
I'll probably email you about those details as that part of the project comes into view. I'll report the results when I have some to share.
Many thanks for sharing this idea.
"Stop global whining!"

Offline Silvertp

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Re: veral's recoil reduction
« Reply #6 on: December 15, 2009, 08:35:34 AM »
terbltim and veral

I'll be keeping watch for any further development on this.  I have a Sako in 338 Lapua that could probably benefit from some recoil reduction.  The hotter loads I put through it are pretty "snappy" if you know what I mean.   ;D

Silvertp

Offline Veral

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Re: veral's recoil reduction
« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2009, 02:49:16 PM »
  Go for it guys.  It is not an experiment, but a well proven method.
  When porting a rifle barrel best results will be obtained if the ports start back from the muzzle at least 4 inches, and 6 inches won't hurt.  If ports are within about 1 to 2 inches behind an iron front sight, each shot will blacken the sight to perfection.  If you start porting 6 inches back, put in only two to start with and try a few shots.  Add two more if you want more reduction.  Too many will make the barrel go down and pull forward, which is the most discomfiting thing you can imagine.  We need a little recoil to keep things normal.  Ideal is to make the barrel lay still enough that you can see the shot hit close to the crosshairs.  Iron sights will cover the hole with the slightest muzzle rise.
  Keep the through hole diameter real close to .1, so lube can't be blown out of grooves by powder gasses.
  Don't forget that I gave this concept to my forum readers.  If one or several of you want to make a business out of it, you have my blessings.  You'll be selling the best porting system ever made.
Veral Smith

Offline Silvertp

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Re: veral's recoil reduction
« Reply #8 on: December 20, 2009, 06:20:45 PM »
Veral,  don't know if Im left brained or right brained, but a photo showing the cuts shape and pattern of cuts would help me immensely.  Any chances youve got a picture of a rifle so modified?

Thanks
Silvertp

Offline Veral

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Re: veral's recoil reduction
« Reply #9 on: December 22, 2009, 05:18:37 PM »
  Sorry, I don't.  The guns I had that were ported with this method were all stolen 10 years ago.

  It's simple though.  Just use a 60 deg included angle champher drill, single flute, high speed and be sure it's a good sharp one.  Don't buy cheapies.  I don't remember if I told it before, but I filled the bore with cerro safe and allowed it to swell for the prescribed time so it was real tight in the bore, then kept the drill well cooled with water mixed with soluable cutting oil.  Turn the drill slowly and use light feed pressure.  Just enough to make it cut smoothly.  All the above is to minimize pushing a bump into the barrel, around the port hole.  Melt the cerro out when finished.
  I put a row of ports at about 30 deg right and left of top dead center, started just behind the front sight ramp.  4 ports on each side worked well with the revolvers I did.  If you start farther back on a rifle, which will mostly have thicker barrels than revolvers, say 6 inches back from the muzzle, try only two ports on a side to start.  Add one on a side, at a time, if needed.  Keep the hole close as possible to .1 inch where it breaks through.  You'll need a 5/16 diameter champher drill for thick rifle barrels, while 1/4 inch diameter is large enough for the handguns I did.  Smaller ones cut better down on the tip than larger.
  If you have access to an EDM machine, by all means use it, don't drill.
Veral Smith