Author Topic: 45-70 (Read 1248 times)

McD · « **on:** October 17, 2003, 10:53:54 AM »

I am new at both 45-70 and PP.
Have a browning 1885
Found some onion paper @ staples office supply.
will be trying some 300, 360, and 400gr bullets 360 and 400 pure pb and the 300 slightly harder.
http://www.prbullet.com/
Wraped some bullets went fine and seated into sized case also worked well Patches were wet with water and when dried put light coating of lee alox on them.
Is there a need for a card?
When I wrap up to the shoulder takes lots of powder space is there any problem with wraping short of this point ? The bullets just slide down the bore un-wraped. Would the alox take care of any leading that might be created?
Have various powders WC-845, h-4198, H-322, benchmark.

Castaway · « **Reply #1 on:** October 20, 2003, 03:12:02 AM »

Are you using black powder or smokeless? Don't understand what you mean that by wrapping to the shoulder and you take more powder space. Shouldn't make a difference on the shoulder end. The base of course should be wrapped as it acts like a gas check. If your patch is applied correctly, there will be no lead to barrel contact. I use Alox on my patches to make the bullet a little more slippery down the barrel (protects the patch from tearing) and it affords a degree of water proofing I'd not have otherwise.

tommy4toes · « **Reply #2 on:** October 28, 2003, 03:30:52 PM »

sounds like you're shooting smokeless....wrapped bullet diameter is very important depending on the powder you use. IMHO, PPB's for smokeless need to be slightly OVER bore diameter - say 2/1000ths or so. This will also limit your case capacity, but if your rifle has a decent throat you will be OK. What kind of gun? What powder charge?
A few years ago I fooled around with a 500 gr PPB over 52 grs 3031 - ouch!!!!!, but very effective. Kind of an old re-vamped Elmer Keith load.
Oh yes the other question......paper patching needs to cover at least a calibers worth of bearing surface to be effective in stabilizing the bullet, and should cover up to the ogive and a little beyond to prevent leading. In fact a properly patched PPB will remove lead and copper fouling most of the time.
There are many books and websites dealing with this subject now - take a look around.

t4t

McD · « **Reply #3 on:** October 29, 2003, 03:37:35 AM »

Here is a picture of bullet I am using.. The straight part or bearing surface is .440 long and .450 in dia.
As it turns out I do not think there is any need for more space can get all the velocity I want with space I have.
The patched bullet dia is over bore dia less then groove.

45 2.1 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 29, 2003, 06:31:56 AM »

You will have a VERY difficult time of getting that bullet to shoot well! Patched 300 gr. will shoot to long range quite well. Try a flat base around that weight to learn with. To get that spitzer boat tail to shoot, you will need to find the right temper so it doesn't slump and yet expand some to take the rifling. Patch with 10 0r 12 lb paper to get it to .461" or .462" diameter. Your asking to much of it with onoinskin.

tommy4toes · « **Reply #5 on:** October 30, 2003, 03:18:22 AM »

I agree with 45 2.1 - try a flat base with a wad. Granted, I'm shooting black powder (45-75-420), but my patches are generally found nearly whole about 20 yds out in front of the muzzle. No evidence of gas cutting at all. Wish i could show you a picture of my bullets - they're from a Hoch semi-adjustable mould with 1E ogive, flat point, and a cupped base where the patch twists in.
Back when I shot smokeless, I had the best results with a hand-swaged 480 bullet that a buddy made. Over 3031 with some filler I pulled off an 1 11/16" group at 200meters, with an average of 2" or so.

t4t