purchased first cannon - any advise

[mustang67ford]

Hello, glad to see there is a forum on cannons!  Very new to the Hobby.  I am an avid gun collector and love muzzeloaders and recently, while researching the net, discovered there are actual cannons out there with live amunition.  Well, I could'n wait, I ordered the Traditions Old ironside cannon kit, the 14" one and can't wait for it to get here.  Does anybody have any familiarity with this kit and any hints to apply while building it?  Any changest that should be made to the the assembly? I was also wondering how you keep this cannon in place when firing so you don't damage it.  I says the max load it 85gr for the .69 round ball.  This seems like a small load compared to my smoke pole which I have 90 gr and a .45 cal ball.

Also, where is the best place to order the round balls (short of making your own), patches, cannon cord etc.  I was thinking of getting it from www.logcabinonline.com.

I don't even have the cannon yet am already ready for a larger one.  What I would like to do later on is use the barrel from the kit, but make a larger carrage like a howitzer instead of the naval carrage.

Many many more questiuons, but this should get me going.

Thanks.

[GGaskill]

You don't want to load a model cannon to the same level as a rifle because you are not restraining it the same way.  Most people shoot them loose on a table or bench.  They recoil vigorously that way. 

They should be shot with tackle from a deck section like they would be on board ship so the ropes limit the recoil, but that is too much work for most people.  But it would make for a much more interesting display.

[RocklockI]

Welcome aboard mustang 67 ! Sounds like a good gun to get going with . Just hang on you'll get the best advise there is . You'll probably want to make a little 'deck ' to shoot it from .unless you like crawling on your belly to shoot it .

No patches , everything you need can be found in the stickys in the sponser/supplier list .

Depending on where you live a lot can be purchased localy too .

I would not deviate at all from the kit .

Gary

[Victor3]

 A few of us here (me included) started out with one of the CVA Old Ironsides 45 cal kit cannons. My firing setup was nothing fancy; just a sandbag or rock behind it on the ground. As stated, you need something to restrain the small cannons. They can fly back and hit you in the shins.

 I have a 1" cannon on a naval carriage that I added ~5# of steel plate in the bottom to keep it from flipping with heavier loads.

[BoomLover]

Yep, Welcome to the Forum! Depending on where you hail from, there are a number of sources for ball, including casting your own. I have a .69 cal cannon also, and have found a couple of outlets for both Black Powder and Ball. Remember to use Cannon grade or 1F Black Powder, no smokeless or rifle powder, but you probably know that with your smokepole! This is the best forum, bar none, for ideas and info on Cannons, Howitzers and Mortars, pre 1899, around! Lots of these guys have been shooting and building cannons for years! Go back into the past pages and get ready to learn! BoomLover

[Ex 49'er]

Looks like you've been bitten by the bug. There is no going back, now. This is an addiction. Welcome to the forum. You'll not be able to stop with just one cannon. You're going to want a golfball mortar someday. From there the sky is the limit. Happy New Year!!!!!!!!!!

[Cat Whisperer]

mustang67ford -

Welcome to the board!

As you can see we have a tradition of being helpful to fellow addicts.

Can't wait to see pictures of smoke and flame!   (EVEN in the SNOW!)

[dynomike1x1]

Welcome Mustang. Save your money cause you wont stop there.

[Terry C.]

Congratulations!

The Old Ironsides will look fine on a Revolutionary War period field carriage. Field pieces of that period were not all that different from naval guns.

It would not be as good of a match to a newer Civil War period carriage, as the field guns were less ornate then.

[mustang67ford]

thanks for all the advise so far.  I have already begun building a "artillery bx" to hold the cannon and accessories.  Will get pics up as things progress.  I have been doing some reading, and it appears that the larger cannons use aluminum foil to make the charges ahead of time.  Can this be done with the smaller cannons like what I am building?  Would like to mke the charges so it appears more to scale.  Also, how do I fire a blank load, what is put in against the powder?  Thanks

[mustang67ford]

Congratulations!

The Old Ironsides will look fine on a Revolutionary War period field carriage. Field pieces of that period were not all that different from naval guns.

It would not be as good of a match to a newer Civil War period carriage, as the field guns were less ornate then.

Any idea on where I could begin to look for the pieces at this small scale?  Any good drawings around? Looks like it will be hard to duplicate at this size as I need wheels that are about 6" diameter.

[GGaskill]

Try

from South Bend Replicas.

[RocklockI]

Simple 6" wheels , Woodhollowcrafts@filertel.com . About 12 bucks for two .

Gary

[Terry C.]

"Round Shot And Rammers" was going to be my suggestion as well. Lots of good designs with detailed illustrations for you to wrap your imagination around. Also lots of ideas for, uh, 'future' projects...

Did anyone mention that this stuff is addictive?

... I have been doing some reading, and it appears that the larger cannons use aluminum foil to make the charges ahead of time.  Can this be done with the smaller cannons like what I am building?  Would like to mke the charges so it appears more to scale.  Also, how do I fire a blank load, what is put in against the powder? ...

First you will need to check the size and shape of the chamber. A straight full diameter bore all the way to the rear face is best, but sometimes the diameter is reduced at the chamber area. The foil-wrapped charge must be able to get all the way back to rear of the chamber, past the vent. Also check to see how far the vent is drilled from the rear of the chamber. If it's right against the rear, you may not be able to use a foil-wrapped charge as there will be a thick foil 'bottom' to the tube and you have to get this past the vent to be able to punch a hole into the charge.

Assuming everything else is acceptable, .69 is big enough for foil-wrapped charges. You'll need a form with a diameter that will let you roll an aluminum foil tube at least two layers thick, that will slide easily down your tube. The tube needs to be at least two layers thick to prevet leakage in case of a tear or puncture to the outer layer. You want to keep powder in and sparks out. Close one end of the tube and it's ready to receive the powder charge, then close the other end.

Finally, you will only be able to get good blanks with real black powder. The BP subs work very poorly to (most often) not at all for blanks. Real black powder gives excellent salutes and the foil pouch is all the containment you'll need.

[Double D]

Load the smaller bore cannons that are in pistol and rifle calibers just the same as you would those arms. Use felt wads or patches.  Substantially reduce the loads to reduce the violent recoil of these light guns. 

The SAMCC cannon that I shot in SA used 4o grs of  FFg and a patched ball.   It also shot the same load with a felt wad and a tight fitting ball.  They ran out of those balls and didn't have any more just as I started to learn how to shoot the gun...hummm, I wonder. 

Good blank load is to use a felt wad over your standard charge.

[mustang67ford]

"Round Shot And Rammers" was going to be my suggestion as well. Lots of good designs with detailed illustrations for you to wrap your imagination around. Also lots of ideas for, uh, 'future' projects...

Did anyone mention that this stuff is addictive?

... I have been doing some reading, and it appears that the larger cannons use aluminum foil to make the charges ahead of time.  Can this be done with the smaller cannons like what I am building?  Would like to mke the charges so it appears more to scale.  Also, how do I fire a blank load, what is put in against the powder? ...

First you will need to check the size and shape of the chamber. A straight full diameter bore all the way to the rear face is best, but sometimes the diameter is reduced at the chamber area. The foil-wrapped charge must be able to get all the way back to rear of the chamber, past the vent. Also check to see how far the vent is drilled from the rear of the chamber. If it's right against the rear, you may not be able to use a foil-wrapped charge as there will be a thick foil 'bottom' to the tube and you have to get this past the vent to be able to punch a hole into the charg

Assuming everything else is acceptable, .69 is big enough for foil-wrapped charges. You'll need a form with a diameter that will let you roll an aluminum foil tube at least two layers thick, that will slide easily down your tube. The tube needs to be at least two layers thick to prevet leakage in case of a tear or puncture to the outer layer. You want to keep powder in and sparks out. Close one end of the tube and it's ready to receive the powder charge, then close the other end.

Finally, you will only be able to get good blanks with real black powder. The BP subs work very poorly to (most often) not at all for blanks. Real black powder gives excellent salutes and the foil pouch is all the containment you'll need.

Thanks for the info,. wasen't sure if this small of a cannon could use pre-made charges.  Here is a website I found and them showing the making of a charge.  http://www.buckstix.com/HowitzerLoading.htm   I would do it the same way?  Then, just pack the foil charge in the cannon followed by the patch and ball?

Then, for a blank load, just use the foil charge and a patch?

Which powder if preferred 1F or 2F foir cannons, I use 2F in my muzzeloader?

Thanks

[Double D]

For guns under  1 to 3/4 inch loose powder and wad or patch ball are fine.  Smaller charges are difficult to foil wrap that small and can pose a safety problem in themselves.  TerryC describes the problems quite well.

Look to the load charts for the grade of powder used by the small arms of similar caliber. Coarser grades produce less pressure.  Reduce the  loads substantialy.     The loads listed for small arms are not unsafe for your barrel, they are just to heavy for this use..  Unlike small arms which are controlled by being held in hand and up to shoulder, even with reduced loads these guns are in free recoil when fired. The can be secondary projectile unless precautions are taken.