Author Topic: Need recoil pad schooling  (Read 488 times)

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Offline longwinters

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Need recoil pad schooling
« on: October 26, 2003, 03:31:48 AM »
I have an older Sako rifle that needs a new recoil pad.  The one on this venerable rifle is hard as a rock . . . some type of, the typical, rubberlike material.  It looks to be glued on as I see no screw holes.

Question, how do you get the old pad off?  Do I need to take it to a gunsmith or are there pads out there made for Sako rifles?  And if I do end up taking it to a gunsmith what kind of cost should I expect to pay?

Thanks,
long
Life is short......eternity is long.

Offline Dave in WV

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Need recoil pad schooling
« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2003, 04:45:15 AM »
LW, you could wrap some tape around the wood next to the recail pad and try working some silicone lube into the rubber. It may soften it. I didn't see a prefit recoil pad listed for Sakos. A good recoil pad will run from around $28 to $35. I don't know what 'smiths charge up there. I paid $100 to have my LOP shortened and a new pad installed. I got a Pachmayr Sporting Clays model installed and I like it and the workmanship. The Sporting Clays model has a plastic insert at the top of the pad so it won't grab your clothes as you mount the firearm to your shoulder. If you want the most recoil reduction the Limbsaver and Kick Eez brands have an edge over the Decelerator Pachmayr line. My 'smith won't use Kick Eez pads as they are harder to work with according to him.
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Offline gunnut69

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Need recoil pad schooling
« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2003, 05:01:09 AM »
I use Pachmeyer Decelerator pads almost exclusively.  They are a bit more work (the pad material is 'squishy') but they are worth the effort and extra cost.  The pre-fit pads are a farce.  There is simply way too much difference in production stock profiling for consistant fit.  The pads run about $30-40 and Brownells pricing chart shows $35-75 as the range to pay for the labor.   As to the pad that's on the rifle already, look for tiny slits on the face of the pad.  They usually run vertically and are quite small.  There should be 2, one about 3/4 to an inch from the top and the 2nd about 1 to 1 1/2 from the bottom bith on the pads centerline.  When removing the screws a bit of ssilicone lube(spray) will allow a screw driver bladfe easier entrance and make turning it easier(use on the old pad and the new).
gunnut69--
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Offline Iowegan

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Need recoil pad schooling
« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2003, 08:57:20 AM »
Almost all recoil pads mount to the stock with 2 screws with the heads hidden. Look for tiny holes in the back of the pad that stretch out when a screwdriver is inserted. Most are Phillips screws but some older ones may be flat tip.
GLB