Author Topic: Trigger job gone bad (Read 1923 times)

Rayzor · « **on:** February 15, 2010, 06:39:53 PM »

Well, I tore into my new 270 the past few nights. I started with cutting one coil from the return spring and stoned down the trigger engaugment. Also polished the sear a bit to keep it all smooth. Well, I went threw the whole ordeal about 6 times taking a whisker off at a time. Well did it one more time and now its no good. You even look at the trigger and it will go off. Also if you pull the hammer all the way back and let it snap forward it will not catch. So now what, order a new hammer or can I deepen the catch a hair. The gun can pass a bump on the floor test without a dry fire, but I want it safe.

Dinny · « **Reply #1 on:** February 15, 2010, 06:42:36 PM »

It's probably best to order a new hammer from Brownells. They're about $10.

You're not even close to being alone, many of us have done the same thing...

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=18141/pid=0/sku/Hammer_Assembly

Thanks, Dinny

Rayzor · « **Reply #2 on:** February 15, 2010, 06:49:10 PM »

Thanks for the link, I probably should just order a new one and call it done. I have to admit it went from a semi ok trigger to EEEK! In less then 15 passes with the stone. O well, try it again.

Dinny · « **Reply #3 on:** February 15, 2010, 06:55:30 PM »

Quote from: Rayzor on February 15, 2010, 06:49:10 PM

Thanks for the link, I probably should just order a new one and call it done. I have to admit it went from a semi ok trigger to EEEK! In less then 15 passes with the stone. O well, try it again.

Order an extra extra one too.

That way you pay shipping only once.

Thanks, Dinny

Bullshop Junior · « **Reply #4 on:** February 15, 2010, 08:32:39 PM »

The trigger in mine was really nice right from the factory. mine is one of the ones not made by NEF

quickdtoo · « **Reply #5 on:** February 15, 2010, 08:39:55 PM »

Anything made 1987 and later, NEF = H&R, they were one in the same, both built in the same plant at Gardner MA, their shipping cartons had both logos on them. The only products listed as NEF in the 2010 catalog are the imported repeater shotguns.

Tim

Bullshop Junior · « **Reply #6 on:** February 15, 2010, 08:43:42 PM »

Ok, I thought the ones marked in red on the date list where made some where else - outsourced as it said.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #7 on:** February 15, 2010, 08:55:33 PM »

Just the frame castings were outsourced, the rifles were still made by H&R/NEF.

Tim

Bullshop Junior · « **Reply #8 on:** February 15, 2010, 08:58:27 PM »

Ok got it. The trigger is super nice in mine, I don't care who made it!

44 Man · « **Reply #9 on:** February 16, 2010, 01:17:30 AM »

I would also replace that spring that you shortened. There's not much extra on an H&R spring. I've had a devil of a time with an old 30-30 that want's to misfire. I replaced most of the guts except the trigger and it still is not right. I have a new trigger and I'll get that installed shortly and see if I have it fixed yet. If not, I'll put in the 'old' style hammer that doesn't use the transfer bar. So..... just hinting that you 'may' need to replace the trigger in it also. Again, I'm thankful that all of these parts are reasonable to purchase! 44 Man

Big Blue · « **Reply #10 on:** February 16, 2010, 01:36:13 AM »

Rayzor,
As Dinny said, your not alone. Many of us, I include myself, have over done it just a bit and had to order a new hammer. I was kicking myself at the time, but eventually looked at it as just part of a learning process.
Don

zoner · « **Reply #11 on:** February 16, 2010, 01:38:40 AM »

Handi's are great...you can do your own trigger jobs. You can screw em up too, i have. Mostly by trying to make the trigger pull too light. I don't remove any coils from the trigger spring. I do polish the pins a little and the holes thru the parts(just polish,don't make the holes bigger or the pins smaller). I don't do any work on the hammer notch. Rig up a way to measure trigger pull and hone the trigger a little. I do 5 strokes with the stone then check it. I had misfires @ 3 lbs so now i shoot for a 4lb trigger. It takes just enough effort to make it break that i get the guaranteed follow thru you need to make the transfer bar work right.Trigger pull sounds heavy but i can shoot mine surprisingly well....just work on it a little.

STUMPJMPR · « **Reply #12 on:** February 16, 2010, 02:16:48 AM »

I don't use a stone. I use a dremel with a felt wheel and a a little jewelers rouge or simichrome. It takes about a minute to give it an almost mirror polish and the trigger usually comes out right where I want it. The only thing I am doing is removing the tooling marks.

blackpowderbill · « **Reply #13 on:** February 16, 2010, 02:50:05 AM »

I got a 45-70 new about 5 years ago. The tripperpull out of the box was and still is right at 3.5 lb on the scale. No complaints from me.

ELMO · « **Reply #14 on:** February 16, 2010, 03:28:44 AM »

I have never had a real heavy trigger pull on any of my dozen or so Handi's. I don't see why all the fuss on getting the pull down so low. I learned with each weapon while target practicing how much pull it takes to make the hammer fall. Like I said, I haven't had a Handi with a real heavy trigger pull to me at all. I have no problem with accuracy either, because of trigger pull. I think some things are over done here, Just my opinion.....

LaOtto222 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 16, 2010, 06:03:35 AM »

To each his own

...Personally I have found that once I got used to a GOOD trigger, stock triggers just do not do it for me. Over travel does not seem to bother me much, but I like a lighter pull; down around 2 - 2.5 pounds for a field gun and ounces for a bench gun with no creep. I think unless the trigger is way stiff the creep is most important to me. But like I said; that is me. If you ever shoot a gun with a real good trigger, it will spoil you. It makes you want to make all your guns have a good trigger. But what is good; is a personal thing.

Rayzor · « **Reply #16 on:** February 16, 2010, 06:48:08 AM »

The factory trigger was way to hard for my tastes. I have 2 other pardner shotguns and they are fine for there purpose. I guess its just a matter of tastes. Also the trigger was not machined square from the start and had a gritty drag to it. Either way, a new one is going to be ordered today. So why replace the return spring I took the coil off? I was following the direction on that mod from the fac. section. I did stretch it back to the installed length though. As far as the transfer bar goes, I cannot tell that its causing me any grief at this time so messing with it will just be another can of worms.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 16, 2010, 07:50:57 AM »

Maybe apply the old machinist's 'rule of halves'. Each time take 'off' only half as much as you think you need to; ie, the first time gets you 50% there, the next is only half of that, and so on. It keeps you from going too far, too fast.
What almost always gets me in trouble is when a little at a time seems too slow a go, so I double up the strokes (or whatever) and find I have gone too far.
Now, I ask me, how did that save me ANY time or trouble?

quickdtoo · « **Reply #18 on:** February 16, 2010, 07:54:13 AM »

The trigger spring is a standard diameter spring, you can buy a replacement at Ace or True Value, or you can buy a lighter spring.

FYI, I've done over 2 dozen trigger jobs, I've never had a problem with the transfer bar doing the spring trim.

Tim

Rayzor · « **Reply #19 on:** February 16, 2010, 08:18:32 AM »

Quote from: gcrank1 on February 16, 2010, 07:50:57 AM

Maybe apply the old machinist's 'rule of halves'. Each time take 'off' only half as much as you think you need to; ie, the first time gets you 50% there, the next is only half of that, and so on. It keeps you from going too far, too fast.
What almost always gets me in trouble is when a little at a time seems too slow a go, so I double up the strokes (or whatever) and find I have gone too far.
Now, I ask me, how did that save me ANY time or trouble?

That situation sounds really familar. Towards the end there it seemed like I had a ways to go and ground on it pretty heavy trying to get there. In reallity I was closer then I thought and ended up way past the mark. Lesson learned.

yeroc · « **Reply #20 on:** February 16, 2010, 04:01:33 PM »

I had a heck of my time with my USH,tore into and still dont have it back together.Im waiting on a new hammer and trigger along with trigger spring and barrel catch spring.I trimmed the wrong spring.Anybody get there trigger assembly back together without using slave pins?

mauser98us · « **Reply #21 on:** February 16, 2010, 04:02:04 PM »

Maybe I'm just strange,but I've been pretty happy with all the trigger pulls on my Handi-rifles. Have eight of them and have no issues with any. Maybe I got lucky.

mechanic · « **Reply #22 on:** February 16, 2010, 04:10:29 PM »

My SB1 that my 357 is mounted on was and is perfect. My SB2 that I now have a 45-70 on was not. Just polished and assembled. Works great now. Sometimes in an effort to do enough we do too much. Understandable, because it's a pain to have to reassemble several times. Save it for a day when you have little else to do, and make a "project" of it.

Rayzor · « **Reply #23 on:** February 16, 2010, 08:26:19 PM »

I tried putting it back together without the dummy pins and about drove myself mad. I ended up using some vacumn hose connectors. Just trimmed them to fit and it worked great.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #24 on:** February 17, 2010, 06:13:38 AM »

Slave pins make life SO much easier, but they dont have to be fancy. I have a collection of solid and split roll pins, cut off nails and round stock stubs, and shanks of worn out/broken drill bits cut to length with a Dremel. Once I make or use one it goes in the bin for the future.
If the assembly isnt heavily spring loaded you may even be able to use a small piece of hardwood dowel.
Get creative and start your collection. Next time around you will be glad you did.