1B Forearm - Bedded Forend

[Muddyboots]

Tried something that actually worked on my 1B exceptionally well. It shot ok like most 1B's until it warmed up after 4-5 shots and the usual vertical stringing. I had free floated the forearm some time ago and it was a little better but not what I expected. I happen to notice the forend pressure was abnormally high and decided to remove the pressure completely and go to neutral bedding on the forend. Essentially, I Dremeled the forend pressure zone until it was free floated when screwed back onto the hanger bar. I then glass bedded the barrel to the forend with forearm screw about 1 turn from tightness. Once cured, I then tightened the forearm screw. This put just a slight forend pressure instead of what was from factory. Accuracy was defintely improved. I shot 10 shots in a row at 77 degrees and all shots were MOA at 100 yds. The barrel was getting a bit warm but it still held POA. This was with 7RM with 160 gr Partitions which never shot worth a crap out of it. I also benched the forearm right at the swivel stud so it was resting on the new bedded area as well. I think I will do my other 1B now same way. Curious if anyone else tried this and results?
Muddyboots

[Darrell Davis]

Hey there Muddyboots,

Just a question, does you wife let you in the house with or without the boots?

As per the #1 forends, I have also floated and bedded those forends, and have found that they can be bedded to two or three places, such as the ejector tension block.

Another NICE trick if you happen to get one of those ugly Alexander Henry forends, is to cut that grove off at a 45 degree angle. then attach a ebony or contrasting walnut tip. By making the cut very close behind the grove, the new tip can be attached and finished with only minor recutting of the forend checkering.

With the new tip, you can still use the barrel mounted sling hanger. Look very good when finished!

Keep em coming! :wink: